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Furnace Install questions justintime4619 10-17-2007
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Posted by on October 17, 2007, 11:42 am
Been doing some research and could use the help of the experts on a
couple of things. I had 5 HVAC companies come to my house for
estimates on replacing my 50 year old 90,000 btu furnace for my 1500
sq. ft. ranch in N.W. OH. The estimates where similar in terms of
cost for most, so I am going with the installer that I trust the most
and received good feedback on from references ( BTW - none of the
installers did a manual J calc, most where just concerned with how to
get the exhaust out). My questions for the group are these.
1) Do I go with a Trane or Armstrong, both are the 90 plus percent
efficient, but the Trane cost an extra $425. What does an extra 425
get me?
2) The contractor I am going with recommended a flue liner for $210
for the hot water heater exhaust. Is that necessary/recommended,
would it be better to skip the liner and route the water heater
exhaust throught the same PVC that is being run out the roof for the
furnace ( the furnace and water heater are next to one another)
3) Is it ok to run the PVC exhaust through an unheated garage to the
roof. It will be hugging the wall, but do I need to insulate the
pipe?
4) One installer recommended replacing the coil, while this guy said
to wait. Why would I replace the coil, is it recommended?
5) As far as sizing, all the contractors quoted something different.
The guy I trust the most said 60,000 btu but I had others that
recommended 90,000. What are the implications of undersizing/
oversizing. Is a manual J calc absolutely necessary or is a trained
eye who is familiar with the neighborhood construction able to tell
from experience.
Any feedback is appreciated.


Posted by Noon-Air on October 17, 2007, 1:03 pm

> Been doing some research and could use the help of the experts on a
> couple of things. I had 5 HVAC companies come to my house for
> estimates on replacing my 50 year old 90,000 btu furnace for my 1500
> sq. ft. ranch in N.W. OH. The estimates where similar in terms of
> cost for most, so I am going with the installer that I trust the most
> and received good feedback on from references ( BTW - none of the
> installers did a manual J calc, most where just concerned with how to
> get the exhaust out).

Either tell the contractors your dealing with that if they want the job,
they *WILL* do the load/loss calcs and provide you with a print out of the
results, or get one that will.

> My questions for the group are these.
> 1) Do I go with a Trane or Armstrong, both are the 90 plus percent
> efficient, but the Trane cost an extra $425. What does an extra 425
> get me?

A lot better quality of equipment

> 2) The contractor I am going with recommended a flue liner for $210
> for the hot water heater exhaust. Is that necessary/recommended,
> would it be better to skip the liner and route the water heater
> exhaust throught the same PVC that is being run out the roof for the
> furnace ( the furnace and water heater are next to one another)

Check with your local building inspector

> 3) Is it ok to run the PVC exhaust through an unheated garage to the
> roof. It will be hugging the wall, but do I need to insulate the
> pipe?

Check with your local building inspector

> 4) One installer recommended replacing the coil, while this guy said
> to wait. Why would I replace the coil, is it recommended?

Do it all one time so you don't have to pay for installation twice

> 5) As far as sizing, all the contractors quoted something different.
> The guy I trust the most said 60,000 btu but I had others that
> recommended 90,000.

Without doing the calcs, they are just guessing.... do you want to base that
kind of an investment on a guess??

> What are the implications of undersizing/
> oversizing.

Each has its own problems.... have the calcs done to correctly size the
furnace and A/C for your home and climate.

> Is a manual J calc absolutely necessary or is a trained
> eye who is familiar with the neighborhood construction able to tell
> from experience.

The *ONLY* rule of thumb is that most folks have 2 of them. Unless the
contractor does the math, he is only guessing.

> Any feedback is appreciated.
>



Posted by on October 17, 2007, 1:26 pm

> Been doing some research and could use the help of the experts on a
> couple of things. I had 5 HVAC companies come to my house for
> estimates on replacing my 50 year old 90,000 btu furnace for my 1500
> sq. ft. ranch in N.W. OH. The estimates where similar in terms of
> cost for most, so I am going with the installer that I trust the most
> and received good feedback on from references ( BTW - none of the
> installers did a manual J calc, most where just concerned with how to
> get the exhaust out).


Load calculation is required!!!
(otherwise, show them to the front door)


> My questions for the group are these.
> 1) Do I go with a Trane or Armstrong, both are the 90 plus percent
> efficient, but the Trane cost an extra $425. What does an extra 425
> get me?
> 2) The contractor I am going with recommended a flue liner for $210
> for the hot water heater exhaust. Is that necessary/recommended,


Yes


> would it be better to skip the liner and route the water heater
> exhaust throught the same PVC that is being run out the roof for the
> furnace ( the furnace and water heater are next to one another)


No, it's not up to code or SAFE!!!


> 3) Is it ok to run the PVC exhaust through an unheated garage to the
> roof. It will be hugging the wall, but do I need to insulate the
> pipe?


Yes and No, in that order, but why are you running it into the garage first?
(or is this a garage install)


> 4) One installer recommended replacing the coil, while this guy said
> to wait. Why would I replace the coil, is it recommended?


Maybe, depends on the installation and age of the condensor.


> 5) As far as sizing, all the contractors quoted something different.
> The guy I trust the most said 60,000 btu but I had others that
> recommended 90,000. What are the implications of undersizing/
> oversizing. Is a manual J calc absolutely necessary or is a trained
> eye who is familiar with the neighborhood construction able to tell
> from experience.
> Any feedback is appreciated.


Trust the guy that does the load calculation.
Everything else is a WAG.



Posted by jamesgangnc on October 17, 2007, 1:53 pm
On Oct 17, 11:42 am, justintime4...@gmail.com wrote:
> Been doing some research and could use the help of the experts on a
> couple of things. I had 5 HVAC companies come to my house for
> estimates on replacing my 50 year old 90,000 btu furnace for my 1500
> sq. ft. ranch in N.W. OH. The estimates where similar in terms of
> cost for most, so I am going with the installer that I trust the most
> and received good feedback on from references ( BTW - none of the
> installers did a manual J calc, most where just concerned with how to
> get the exhaust out). My questions for the group are these.
> 1) Do I go with a Trane or Armstrong, both are the 90 plus percent
> efficient, but the Trane cost an extra $425. What does an extra 425
> get me?
> 2) The contractor I am going with recommended a flue liner for $210
> for the hot water heater exhaust. Is that necessary/recommended,
> would it be better to skip the liner and route the water heater
> exhaust throught the same PVC that is being run out the roof for the
> furnace ( the furnace and water heater are next to one another)
> 3) Is it ok to run the PVC exhaust through an unheated garage to the
> roof. It will be hugging the wall, but do I need to insulate the
> pipe?
> 4) One installer recommended replacing the coil, while this guy said
> to wait. Why would I replace the coil, is it recommended?
> 5) As far as sizing, all the contractors quoted something different.
> The guy I trust the most said 60,000 btu but I had others that
> recommended 90,000. What are the implications of undersizing/
> oversizing. Is a manual J calc absolutely necessary or is a trained
> eye who is familiar with the neighborhood construction able to tell
> from experience.
> Any feedback is appreciated.

You would probably have to replace your hot water heater in order to
exhaust it via pvc.

It's probably ok to run the pvc along a garage wall. How about out
the side instead of through the roof?

Coil should match the ac unit so leave it alone until you replace the
ac.

The effects of oversizing heat is not as detrimental as oversizing ac
to a point. Grossly oversized would create comfort problems.
Undersized simply may not provide enough heat on very cold days.


Posted by Bubba on October 17, 2007, 3:58 pm
On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:53:46 -0700, jamesgangnc

>On Oct 17, 11:42 am, justintime4...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Been doing some research and could use the help of the experts on a
>> couple of things. I had 5 HVAC companies come to my house for
>> estimates on replacing my 50 year old 90,000 btu furnace for my 1500
>> sq. ft. ranch in N.W. OH. The estimates where similar in terms of
>> cost for most, so I am going with the installer that I trust the most
>> and received good feedback on from references ( BTW - none of the
>> installers did a manual J calc, most where just concerned with how to
>> get the exhaust out). My questions for the group are these.
>> 1) Do I go with a Trane or Armstrong, both are the 90 plus percent
>> efficient, but the Trane cost an extra $425. What does an extra 425
>> get me?
>> 2) The contractor I am going with recommended a flue liner for $210
>> for the hot water heater exhaust. Is that necessary/recommended,
>> would it be better to skip the liner and route the water heater
>> exhaust throught the same PVC that is being run out the roof for the
>> furnace ( the furnace and water heater are next to one another)
>> 3) Is it ok to run the PVC exhaust through an unheated garage to the
>> roof. It will be hugging the wall, but do I need to insulate the
>> pipe?
>> 4) One installer recommended replacing the coil, while this guy said
>> to wait. Why would I replace the coil, is it recommended?
>> 5) As far as sizing, all the contractors quoted something different.
>> The guy I trust the most said 60,000 btu but I had others that
>> recommended 90,000. What are the implications of undersizing/
>> oversizing. Is a manual J calc absolutely necessary or is a trained
>> eye who is familiar with the neighborhood construction able to tell
>> from experience.
>> Any feedback is appreciated.
>
>You would probably have to replace your hot water heater in order to
>exhaust it via pvc.
>
Probably?

>It's probably ok to run the pvc along a garage wall. How about out
>the side instead of through the roof?

Probably (again)?
>
>Coil should match the ac unit so leave it alone until you replace the
>ac.
>
Should?

>The effects of oversizing heat is not as detrimental as oversizing ac
>to a point. Grossly oversized would create comfort problems.
>Undersized simply may not provide enough heat on very cold days.

Oversizing heat is NOT as detrimental?
You're a freakin retard jamesgangnc!
Your would and should shittin guesses need to be shoved up your ass.
Go play in alt.guess
Bubba

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