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Posted by zero on October 18, 2007, 12:52 am
> Been doing some research and could use the help of the experts on a
> couple of things. I had 5 HVAC companies come to my house for
> estimates on replacing my 50 year old 90,000 btu furnace for my 1500
> sq. ft. ranch in N.W. OH. The estimates where similar in terms of
> cost for most, so I am going with the installer that I trust the most
> and received good feedback on from references ( BTW - none of the
> installers did a manual J calc, most where just concerned with how to
> get the exhaust out). My questions for the group are these.
> 1) Do I go with a Trane or Armstrong, both are the 90 plus percent
> efficient, but the Trane cost an extra $425. What does an extra 425
> get me?
>
> CY: The Trane give you obscure parts which are expensive to replace. And
> often only available through Trane dealers. You can expect to pay more for
> service, and have fewer companies who can provide service.
>
> 2) The contractor I am going with recommended a flue liner for $210
> for the hot water heater exhaust. Is that necessary/recommended,
> would it be better to skip the liner and route the water heater
> exhaust throught the same PVC that is being run out the roof for the
> furnace ( the furnace and water heater are next to one another)
>
> CY: I'd go with the flue liner. Please don't share a chimney if possible.
>
> 3) Is it ok to run the PVC exhaust through an unheated garage to the
> roof. It will be hugging the wall, but do I need to insulate the
> pipe?
>
> CY: By the time the 90+ gasses are sent out, they are pretty cool. I'd
> suggest to run the pipe horizontal, and go out a side wall if at all
> possible. Pumping cold air uphill isn't very effective.
Will_you_PLEASE!.....
http://www.hvacbooks.com/
> 4) One installer recommended replacing the coil, while this guy said
> to wait. Why would I replace the coil, is it recommended?
>
> CY: new coil less likely to leak freon. Also more energy efficient. If you
> can afford the coil, please do.
>
> 5) As far as sizing, all the contractors quoted something different.
> The guy I trust the most said 60,000 btu but I had others that
> recommended 90,000. What are the implications of undersizing/
> oversizing. Is a manual J calc absolutely necessary or is a trained
> eye who is familiar with the neighborhood construction able to tell
> from experience.
>
> CY: Oversized furnace won't run as often, you'll get temperature swings.
> Under sized, and your house will be cold during the coldest days of
> winter.
> You might need a space heater or a couple burners on the stove to help
> keep
> the house warm. I'd go with the smaller furnace.
>
> Any feedback is appreciated.
>
> CY: I tend to give more credence to people who speak politely, using
> polite
> terms. I have less confidence in people who curse and swear.
Well there you go,,, you've just busted your own myth.
-zero
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