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Furnace pressure problem coustanis 03-16-2007
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Posted by coustanis on March 16, 2007, 12:04 pm
Hi all,

My house is heated with hot water baseboard radiators. The hot water
is supplied by a boiler furnace with circulation pump. The furnace
has an automatic fill valve that is kept in the off position unless
the system needs water. It is them manually opened until proper
pressure is achieved. The burner comes on at about 150 degrees and
goes out at 160 degrees. I try to maintain about 18psi at 160 degrees
system pressure. The safety blow valve is set to blow at 35psi. It
has an air purge valve at the top of furnace just below the floor
above it (about 10 feet from basement floor).
The air purge valve is new and so is the expansion tank. The
expansion tank pressure seems to match the boiler pressure.

Here's the problem. Every couple of days the system pressure has
dropped to about 10 or 11 psi at 160 degrees. This effects the
efficiency of both the radiator heat as well as the potable hot water
(which is heated bythe boiler).
I open the fill valve, purge the air and close it all back up at 18psi
at 160 degrees. All is well for another couple of days until the
pressure if back down and I repeat the process.

I don't see any leaks, no water dripping from ceilings or pooling
anywhere that I can see. One room of the house is a concrete slab
floor (converted carport). It has heating pipe within the concrete
slab.

I keep adding water and purging. What could cause the pressure to
keep dropping?
I'm out of ideas.

Thanks in advance,


Posted by on March 16, 2007, 1:17 pm
wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>My house is heated with hot water baseboard radiators. The hot water
>is supplied by a boiler furnace with circulation pump. The furnace
>has an automatic fill valve that is kept in the off position unless
>the system needs water. It is them manually opened until proper
>pressure is achieved.

        That would make it a 'manual fill valve' :-)

> The burner comes on at about 150 degrees and
>goes out at 160 degrees. I try to maintain about 18psi at 160 degrees
>system pressure. The safety blow valve is set to blow at 35psi. It
>has an air purge valve at the top of furnace just below the floor
>above it (about 10 feet from basement floor).
>The air purge valve is new and so is the expansion tank. The
>expansion tank pressure seems to match the boiler pressure.
>
>Here's the problem. Every couple of days the system pressure has
>dropped to about 10 or 11 psi at 160 degrees. This effects the
>efficiency of both the radiator heat as well as the potable hot water
>(which is heated bythe boiler).
>I open the fill valve, purge the air and close it all back up at 18psi
>at 160 degrees. All is well for another couple of days until the
>pressure if back down and I repeat the process.
>
>I don't see any leaks, no water dripping from ceilings or pooling
>anywhere that I can see. One room of the house is a concrete slab
>floor (converted carport). It has heating pipe within the concrete
>slab.
>
>I keep adding water and purging. What could cause the pressure to
>keep dropping?
>I'm out of ideas.
>
>Thanks in advance,

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Posted by on March 16, 2007, 3:31 pm

> Hi all,
>
> My house is heated with hot water baseboard radiators. The hot water
> is supplied by a boiler furnace with circulation pump. The furnace
> has an automatic fill valve that is kept in the off position unless
> the system needs water. It is them manually opened until proper
> pressure is achieved. The burner comes on at about 150 degrees and
> goes out at 160 degrees. I try to maintain about 18psi at 160 degrees
> system pressure. The safety blow valve is set to blow at 35psi. It
> has an air purge valve at the top of furnace just below the floor
> above it (about 10 feet from basement floor).
> The air purge valve is new and so is the expansion tank. The
> expansion tank pressure seems to match the boiler pressure.
>
> Here's the problem. Every couple of days the system pressure has
> dropped to about 10 or 11 psi at 160 degrees. This effects the
> efficiency of both the radiator heat as well as the potable hot water
> (which is heated bythe boiler).
> I open the fill valve, purge the air and close it all back up at 18psi
> at 160 degrees. All is well for another couple of days until the
> pressure if back down and I repeat the process.
>
> I don't see any leaks, no water dripping from ceilings or pooling
> anywhere that I can see. One room of the house is a concrete slab
> floor (converted carport). It has heating pipe within the concrete
> slab.
>
> I keep adding water and purging. What could cause the pressure to
> keep dropping?
> I'm out of ideas.
>
> Thanks in advance,


Are you serious, you add water and then pressure goes down, then you add
more water and pressure goes down, then you add more water and the pressure
STILL goes down...

And you DON'T know what's happening????

Here is you answer:
Your water is contracting till it disappears... try filling the unit to 16
P.S.I. not 18, this will make the water more stable.

Also remember, if your car tire will not hold the proper air pressure, try 2
P.S.I. less.












You believe me, RIGHT? :-)





Posted by Bubba on March 16, 2007, 3:34 pm

>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> My house is heated with hot water baseboard radiators. The hot water
>> is supplied by a boiler furnace with circulation pump. The furnace
>> has an automatic fill valve that is kept in the off position unless
>> the system needs water. It is them manually opened until proper
>> pressure is achieved. The burner comes on at about 150 degrees and
>> goes out at 160 degrees. I try to maintain about 18psi at 160 degrees
>> system pressure. The safety blow valve is set to blow at 35psi. It
>> has an air purge valve at the top of furnace just below the floor
>> above it (about 10 feet from basement floor).
>> The air purge valve is new and so is the expansion tank. The
>> expansion tank pressure seems to match the boiler pressure.
>>
>> Here's the problem. Every couple of days the system pressure has
>> dropped to about 10 or 11 psi at 160 degrees. This effects the
>> efficiency of both the radiator heat as well as the potable hot water
>> (which is heated bythe boiler).
>> I open the fill valve, purge the air and close it all back up at 18psi
>> at 160 degrees. All is well for another couple of days until the
>> pressure if back down and I repeat the process.
>>
>> I don't see any leaks, no water dripping from ceilings or pooling
>> anywhere that I can see. One room of the house is a concrete slab
>> floor (converted carport). It has heating pipe within the concrete
>> slab.
>>
>> I keep adding water and purging. What could cause the pressure to
>> keep dropping?
>> I'm out of ideas.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>
>
>Are you serious, you add water and then pressure goes down, then you add
>more water and pressure goes down, then you add more water and the pressure
>STILL goes down...
>
>And you DON'T know what's happening????
>
>Here is you answer:
>Your water is contracting till it disappears... try filling the unit to 16
>P.S.I. not 18, this will make the water more stable.
>
>Also remember, if your car tire will not hold the proper air pressure, try 2
>P.S.I. less.
>
KJ, you may be right about that but just incase............he needs to
replace the thermostat if that doesnt work. Its almost always the
thermostat.
Bubba
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>You believe me, RIGHT? :-)
>
>
>

Posted by danger on March 16, 2007, 11:19 pm
You probably have your relief valve piped into a drain, and can't see the boiler
relieving. Either that or you have a hell of a leak somewhere.

-Canadian Heat


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