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Posted by barbie.gee on April 21, 2009, 11:06 pm
So I come home today and crank up the thermostat a few degrees and get
on with dinner prep. That's weird, it sure seems a bit chilly when I
sit down to eat my dinner...
Go over to the thermostat, and see that although I hear the blowers
blowing, the red light on the thermostat is not on as it usually is, and
cold air is blowing out the vents.
Trudge downstairs, thinking "ignitor". Poke around there a little, pull
the ignitor but it's solid. Look in the bottom half of the furnace, and
read the "diagnostic" chart, that tells me what the status light on the
circuit board means when it flashes. Re-apply power, both blower fans
go on, but no ignition, and the light is flashing 4 times. The chart
says that means I have an open limit switch. Apparently there are two?
a main and an aux. Try to follow the schematics, and my best guess is
that the main limit switch is connected on red wires, and goes into the
plenum. Pulled it out, and it looks like a tiny little metal drum on a
probe, yes?
There are 3 other little drums that are in the front of the furnace,
kind of flush with the bottom, and each has little switches connected to
them. I pressed each one a few times, but that didnt' make a
difference. Light purple wires on those. Aux Limit Switches?
how much more can I DIY before I call in the big guns? Looks like the
mail LS runs about $35? Worth it to just change it out?
this is a Goodman GMP125-4, I'm thinking circa 1996, since the SN starts
with 96.
thanks for any tips/info.
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Posted by Don Ocean on April 21, 2009, 11:54 pm
barbie.gee wrote:
>
> So I come home today and crank up the thermostat a few degrees and get
> on with dinner prep. That's weird, it sure seems a bit chilly when I
> sit down to eat my dinner...
>
> Go over to the thermostat, and see that although I hear the blowers
> blowing, the red light on the thermostat is not on as it usually is, and
> cold air is blowing out the vents.
>
> Trudge downstairs, thinking "ignitor". Poke around there a little, pull
> the ignitor but it's solid. Look in the bottom half of the furnace, and
> read the "diagnostic" chart, that tells me what the status light on the
> circuit board means when it flashes. Re-apply power, both blower fans
> go on, but no ignition, and the light is flashing 4 times. The chart
> says that means I have an open limit switch. Apparently there are two?
> a main and an aux. Try to follow the schematics, and my best guess is
> that the main limit switch is connected on red wires, and goes into the
> plenum. Pulled it out, and it looks like a tiny little metal drum on a
> probe, yes?
>
> There are 3 other little drums that are in the front of the furnace,
> kind of flush with the bottom, and each has little switches connected to
> them. I pressed each one a few times, but that didnt' make a
> difference. Light purple wires on those. Aux Limit Switches?
>
> how much more can I DIY before I call in the big guns? Looks like the
> mail LS runs about $35? Worth it to just change it out?
>
> this is a Goodman GMP125-4, I'm thinking circa 1996, since the SN starts
> with 96.
> thanks for any tips/info.
Never trust blink codes. Sometimes it is right and sometimes it is wrong.
Most of us have learned not to waste our time on those. I suggest you
get a qualified Service company to analyze that. Its worth it to get an
instantaneous fix rather then the grief of trying to second guess the
problem.
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Posted by Stormin Mormon on April 22, 2009, 10:27 am
That's wise advice. Also, lets say it is a bad limit switch.
The switch functioned for a reason. You could replace the
$35 swtich, and one of a couple things happens:
* The furnace works fine
* the new limit switch promptly blows, cause you didn't fix
the problem
* There is something serious wrong, and the furnace gives
you more trouble before the new limit functions. Might be
cabon monoxide, or overheating and catch fire.
The service call could easilly be cheper in the long run.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Never trust blink codes. Sometimes it is right and sometimes
it is wrong.
Most of us have learned not to waste our time on those. I
suggest you
get a qualified Service company to analyze that. Its worth
it to get an
instantaneous fix rather then the grief of trying to second
guess the
problem.
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Posted by barbie.gee on April 22, 2009, 11:23 am
Don Ocean wrote:
> barbie.gee wrote:
>> how much more can I DIY before I call in the big guns? Looks like the
>> mail LS runs about $35? Worth it to just change it out?
>> this is a Goodman GMP125-4, I'm thinking circa 1996, since the SN
>> starts with 96.
>> thanks for any tips/info.
>
> Never trust blink codes. Sometimes it is right and sometimes it is wrong.
> Most of us have learned not to waste our time on those. I suggest you
> get a qualified Service company to analyze that. Its worth it to get an
> instantaneous fix rather then the grief of trying to second guess the
> problem.
Overnight, I figured I know just enough to be dangerous, and not enough
to be thorough, so I called a guy out.
It WAS the limit switch, and he had one in the truck. (Now I know how
to "jumper(it) out", which is cool!) Since he was here, I had him do the
cleaning and maintenance and give the whole furnace the once over, since
it was kinda overdue for this year anyway.
So, it cost me about $100 more than if I had done the repair myself, but
I gave some money to a local small business, and can feel okay that the
repair was done right.
But, I COULDA done it myself! :-) ;-)
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Posted by Stormin Mormon on April 22, 2009, 8:19 pm
Hmm. Customer who knows how to jump out limit switches. Yep,
you're dangerous. Glad your furnace is fixed.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Overnight, I figured I know just enough to be dangerous, and
not enough
to be thorough, so I called a guy out.
It WAS the limit switch, and he had one in the truck. (Now
I know how
to "jumper(it) out", which is cool!) Since he was here, I
had him do the
cleaning and maintenance and give the whole furnace the once
over, since
it was kinda overdue for this year anyway.
So, it cost me about $100 more than if I had done the repair
myself, but
I gave some money to a local small business, and can feel
okay that the
repair was done right.
But, I COULDA done it myself! :-) ;-)
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> So I come home today and crank up the thermostat a few degrees and get
> on with dinner prep. That's weird, it sure seems a bit chilly when I
> sit down to eat my dinner...
>
> Go over to the thermostat, and see that although I hear the blowers
> blowing, the red light on the thermostat is not on as it usually is, and
> cold air is blowing out the vents.
>
> Trudge downstairs, thinking "ignitor". Poke around there a little, pull
> the ignitor but it's solid. Look in the bottom half of the furnace, and
> read the "diagnostic" chart, that tells me what the status light on the
> circuit board means when it flashes. Re-apply power, both blower fans
> go on, but no ignition, and the light is flashing 4 times. The chart
> says that means I have an open limit switch. Apparently there are two?
> a main and an aux. Try to follow the schematics, and my best guess is
> that the main limit switch is connected on red wires, and goes into the
> plenum. Pulled it out, and it looks like a tiny little metal drum on a
> probe, yes?
>
> There are 3 other little drums that are in the front of the furnace,
> kind of flush with the bottom, and each has little switches connected to
> them. I pressed each one a few times, but that didnt' make a
> difference. Light purple wires on those. Aux Limit Switches?
>
> how much more can I DIY before I call in the big guns? Looks like the
> mail LS runs about $35? Worth it to just change it out?
>
> this is a Goodman GMP125-4, I'm thinking circa 1996, since the SN starts
> with 96.
> thanks for any tips/info.