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Heat Pump System - Single Stage or 2 Stages? Bob Simon 05-11-2008
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Posted by Rod on May 12, 2008, 9:23 pm
> wrote:
> >>>Bob Simon wrote:
> >>>> I'm looking at programmable thermostats for my heat pump -- Goodman
> >>>> GSH14030 compressor and ARUF3030 air handler with a 10kW heat kit.
> >>>> I want to determine how many stages of heating and cooling I have so =
I
> >>>> went to the Goodman web site and searched the spec sheets for the wor=
d
> >>>> "stage" but it was not listed this way.
> >>>> Can someone please tell me if this is a single stage system or
> >>>> multi-stage? =A0For two stage systems do both the compressor and air
> >>>> handler need to be two stage or is this determined by only one of
> >>>> these components?
> >>>Bob;
> >>>Your system is a 14 SEER 2.5 Ton Heat Pump. =A0You will need a single s=
tage
> >>>cool, 2 stage heating thermostat. =A0The second stage for heat is the s=
trip
> >>>heaters. =A0Look in the instructions that came with the indoor unit. =
=A0It
> >>>will
> >>>show you how to connect your new thermostat to your system. =A0Good luc=
k.
> >>>And if you find a problem call your local HVAC repair people. They'll h=
elp
> >>>you, but there will be a fee tied to the help. We have bills to pay too=
.
> >> Thank you. =A0Is the reason you know that the compressor is a single
> >> stage because it only has one BTU rating?
> >> The old thermostat has a single O/B contact whereas the one I'm
> >> considering buying (White Rogers 1F95-1277) has both an O and a B.
> >> Currently the orange wire goes to O/B - the changeover relay. =A0If I
> >> purchase the 1F95-1277, how should I wire O and B?
> >Did you see where he stated...
> >"And if you find a problem call your local HVAC repair people. They'll he=
lp
> >you, but there will be a fee tied to the help. We have bills to pay too."=

> >Now quit being so cheap!
> You and "noon-air" seem to make a lot of unjustified assumptions.
> Perhaps you and he are usually right but I have to wonder. =A0It looks
> to me like you're =A0trying to prove that do-it-yourselfers are stealing
> your livelyhood and I happen to be a convenient target for your
> unhappiness.
> For your information, over the past two years I paid a qualified
> installer about $7k to install two new heat pump systems in my house.
> A week ago when the WR 1F82-261 thermostat he installed died, I
> re-installed the old mercury switch thermostat. =A0As I mentioned, the
> system is working now. =A0I enjoy doing small repairs that are within my
> capabilities and am completely confident that I can install and
> program a new electronic thermostat.
> I am still hopeful that someone in this group will confirm my
> expectation that I need to jumper the B and O terminals for a
> thermostat where they are separate terminals.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

Hook the orange wire to the O terminal and nothing to the B terminal.
The difference between the 2 is when they are energized. The O is
energized in cool which is the most units are wire (including yours)
and the B is energized in heat which is the way Rheem, Ruud, and
Weather King units are wired. Make sure you kill the power to the
indoor unit because if you touch the wrong 2 wires together by
accident you'll pop the low voltage fuse. As far as programming, just
read the manual not to hard on White Rodgers T-stats. Good Luck!!!
Rodney

Posted by Bob Simon on May 12, 2008, 10:41 pm
wrote:

>> wrote:
>> >>>Bob Simon wrote:
>> >>>> I'm looking at programmable thermostats for my heat pump -- Goodman
>> >>>> GSH14030 compressor and ARUF3030 air handler with a 10kW heat kit.
>> >>>> I want to determine how many stages of heating and cooling I have so I
>> >>>> went to the Goodman web site and searched the spec sheets for the word
>> >>>> "stage" but it was not listed this way.
>> >>>> Can someone please tell me if this is a single stage system or
>> >>>> multi-stage?  For two stage systems do both the compressor and air
>> >>>> handler need to be two stage or is this determined by only one of
>> >>>> these components?
>> >>>Bob;
>> >>>Your system is a 14 SEER 2.5 Ton Heat Pump.  You will need a single stage
>> >>>cool, 2 stage heating thermostat.  The second stage for heat is the strip
>> >>>heaters.  Look in the instructions that came with the indoor unit.  It
>> >>>will
>> >>>show you how to connect your new thermostat to your system.  Good luck.
>> >>>And if you find a problem call your local HVAC repair people. They'll help
>> >>>you, but there will be a fee tied to the help. We have bills to pay too.
>> >> Thank you.  Is the reason you know that the compressor is a single
>> >> stage because it only has one BTU rating?
>> >> The old thermostat has a single O/B contact whereas the one I'm
>> >> considering buying (White Rogers 1F95-1277) has both an O and a B.
>> >> Currently the orange wire goes to O/B - the changeover relay.  If I
>> >> purchase the 1F95-1277, how should I wire O and B?
>> >Did you see where he stated...
>> >"And if you find a problem call your local HVAC repair people. They'll help
>> >you, but there will be a fee tied to the help. We have bills to pay too."
>> >Now quit being so cheap!
>> You and "noon-air" seem to make a lot of unjustified assumptions.
>> Perhaps you and he are usually right but I have to wonder.  It looks
>> to me like you're  trying to prove that do-it-yourselfers are stealing
>> your livelyhood and I happen to be a convenient target for your
>> unhappiness.
>> For your information, over the past two years I paid a qualified
>> installer about $7k to install two new heat pump systems in my house.
>> A week ago when the WR 1F82-261 thermostat he installed died, I
>> re-installed the old mercury switch thermostat.  As I mentioned, the
>> system is working now.  I enjoy doing small repairs that are within my
>> capabilities and am completely confident that I can install and
>> program a new electronic thermostat.
>> I am still hopeful that someone in this group will confirm my
>> expectation that I need to jumper the B and O terminals for a
>> thermostat where they are separate terminals.- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>Hook the orange wire to the O terminal and nothing to the B terminal.
>The difference between the 2 is when they are energized. The O is
>energized in cool which is the most units are wire (including yours)
>and the B is energized in heat which is the way Rheem, Ruud, and
>Weather King units are wired. Make sure you kill the power to the
>indoor unit because if you touch the wrong 2 wires together by
>accident you'll pop the low voltage fuse. As far as programming, just
>read the manual not to hard on White Rodgers T-stats. Good Luck!!!
>Rodney
Rod,
Thank you for the clear and helpful information.
Bob

Posted by over a barrel on May 13, 2008, 1:31 am

> wrote:
> >> wrote:
> >> >>>Bob Simon wrote:
> >> >>>> I'm looking at programmable thermostats for my heat pump --
Goodman
> >> >>>> GSH14030 compressor and ARUF3030 air handler with a 10kW heat kit.
> >> >>>> I want to determine how many stages of heating and cooling I have
so I
> >> >>>> went to the Goodman web site and searched the spec sheets for the
word
> >> >>>> "stage" but it was not listed this way.
> >> >>>> Can someone please tell me if this is a single stage system or
> >> >>>> multi-stage? For two stage systems do both the compressor and air
> >> >>>> handler need to be two stage or is this determined by only one of
> >> >>>> these components?
> >> >>>Bob;
> >> >>>Your system is a 14 SEER 2.5 Ton Heat Pump. You will need a single
stage
> >> >>>cool, 2 stage heating thermostat. The second stage for heat is the
strip
> >> >>>heaters. Look in the instructions that came with the indoor unit. It
> >> >>>will
> >> >>>show you how to connect your new thermostat to your system. Good
luck.
> >> >>>And if you find a problem call your local HVAC repair people.
They'll help
> >> >>>you, but there will be a fee tied to the help. We have bills to pay
too.
> >> >> Thank you. Is the reason you know that the compressor is a single
> >> >> stage because it only has one BTU rating?
> >> >> The old thermostat has a single O/B contact whereas the one I'm
> >> >> considering buying (White Rogers 1F95-1277) has both an O and a B.
> >> >> Currently the orange wire goes to O/B - the changeover relay. If I
> >> >> purchase the 1F95-1277, how should I wire O and B?
> >> >Did you see where he stated...
> >> >"And if you find a problem call your local HVAC repair people. They'll
help
> >> >you, but there will be a fee tied to the help. We have bills to pay
too."
> >> >Now quit being so cheap!
> >> You and "noon-air" seem to make a lot of unjustified assumptions.
> >> Perhaps you and he are usually right but I have to wonder. It looks
> >> to me like you're trying to prove that do-it-yourselfers are stealing
> >> your livelyhood and I happen to be a convenient target for your
> >> unhappiness.
> >> For your information, over the past two years I paid a qualified
> >> installer about $7k to install two new heat pump systems in my house.
> >> A week ago when the WR 1F82-261 thermostat he installed died, I
> >> re-installed the old mercury switch thermostat. As I mentioned, the
> >> system is working now. I enjoy doing small repairs that are within my
> >> capabilities and am completely confident that I can install and
> >> program a new electronic thermostat.
> >> I am still hopeful that someone in this group will confirm my
> >> expectation that I need to jumper the B and O terminals for a
> >> thermostat where they are separate terminals.- Hide quoted text -
> >> - Show quoted text -
> >Hook the orange wire to the O terminal and nothing to the B terminal.
> >The difference between the 2 is when they are energized. The O is
> >energized in cool which is the most units are wire (including yours)
> >and the B is energized in heat which is the way Rheem, Ruud, and
> >Weather King units are wired. Make sure you kill the power to the
> >indoor unit because if you touch the wrong 2 wires together by
> >accident you'll pop the low voltage fuse. As far as programming, just
> >read the manual not to hard on White Rodgers T-stats. Good Luck!!!
> >Rodney
> Rod,
> Thank you for the clear and helpful information.
> Bob

Youve just thanked another idiot.

you have heat pump and running heat strips as aux

Obviously 4 stages there then duhh.....

--



Posted by Rod on May 13, 2008, 9:48 pm
wrote:
> > wrote:
> > >> wrote:
:
> > >> >>>Bob Simon wrote:
> > >> >>>> I'm looking at programmable thermostats for my heat pump --
> Goodman
> > >> >>>> GSH14030 compressor and ARUF3030 air handler with a 10kW heat ki=
t.
> > >> >>>> I want to determine how many stages of heating and cooling I hav=
e
> so I
> > >> >>>> went to the Goodman web site and searched the spec sheets for th=
e
> word
> > >> >>>> "stage" but it was not listed this way.
> > >> >>>> Can someone please tell me if this is a single stage system or
> > >> >>>> multi-stage? For two stage systems do both the compressor and ai=
r
> > >> >>>> handler need to be two stage or is this determined by only one o=
f
> > >> >>>> these components?
> > >> >>>Bob;
> > >> >>>Your system is a 14 SEER 2.5 Ton Heat Pump. You will need a single=

> stage
> > >> >>>cool, 2 stage heating thermostat. The second stage for heat is the=

> strip
> > >> >>>heaters. Look in the instructions that came with the indoor unit. =
It
> > >> >>>will
> > >> >>>show you how to connect your new thermostat to your system. Good
> luck.
> > >> >>>And if you find a problem call your local HVAC repair people.
> They'll help
> > >> >>>you, but there will be a fee tied to the help. We have bills to pa=
y
> too.
> > >> >> Thank you. Is the reason you know that the compressor is a single
> > >> >> stage because it only has one BTU rating?
> > >> >> The old thermostat has a single O/B contact whereas the one I'm
> > >> >> considering buying (White Rogers 1F95-1277) has both an O and a B.=

> > >> >> Currently the orange wire goes to O/B - the changeover relay. If I=

> > >> >> purchase the 1F95-1277, how should I wire O and B?
> > >> >Did you see where he stated...
> > >> >"And if you find a problem call your local HVAC repair people. They'=
ll
> help
> > >> >you, but there will be a fee tied to the help. We have bills to pay
> too."
> > >> >Now quit being so cheap!
> > >> You and "noon-air" seem to make a lot of unjustified assumptions.
> > >> Perhaps you and he are usually right but I have to wonder. It looks
> > >> to me like you're trying to prove that do-it-yourselfers are stealing=

> > >> your livelyhood and I happen to be a convenient target for your
> > >> unhappiness.
> > >> For your information, over the past two years I paid a qualified
> > >> installer about $7k to install two new heat pump systems in my house.=

> > >> A week ago when the WR 1F82-261 thermostat he installed died, I
> > >> re-installed the old mercury switch thermostat. As I mentioned, the
> > >> system is working now. I enjoy doing small repairs that are within my=

> > >> capabilities and am completely confident that I can install and
> > >> program a new electronic thermostat.
> > >> I am still hopeful that someone in this group will confirm my
> > >> expectation that I need to jumper the B and O terminals for a
> > >> thermostat where they are separate terminals.- Hide quoted text -
> > >> - Show quoted text -
> > >Hook the orange wire to the O terminal and nothing to the B terminal.
> > >The difference between the 2 is when they are energized. =A0 The O is
> > >energized in cool which is the most units are wire (including yours)
> > >and the B is energized in heat which is the way Rheem, Ruud, and
> > >Weather King units are wired. =A0Make sure you kill the power to the
> > >indoor unit because if you touch the wrong 2 wires together by
> > >accident you'll pop the low voltage fuse. =A0As far as programming, jus=
t
> > >read the manual not to hard on White Rodgers T-stats. =A0Good Luck!!!
> > >Rodney
> > Rod,
> > Thank you for the clear and helpful information.
> > Bob
> Youve just thanked another idiot.
> you have heat pump and running heat strips as aux
> Obviously 4 stages there then duhh.....
> --- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

You don't even know me. For such an idiot my answer is correct.
Don't most heatpumps have strips as auxillary? Unless it's a dual
fuel or water furnace that's the way they all work except for maybe
ground source. Did you read that last statement before you posted
it. It makes no sense and I'm the idiot.

Posted by Noon-Air on May 12, 2008, 10:07 pm


> You and "noon-air" seem to make a lot of unjustified assumptions.
> Perhaps you and he are usually right but I have to wonder. It looks
> to me like you're trying to prove that do-it-yourselfers are stealing
> your livelyhood and I happen to be a convenient target for your
> unhappiness.

I made no assumptions, only statements.

> For your information, over the past two years I paid a qualified
> installer about $7k to install two new heat pump systems in my house.
> A week ago when the WR 1F82-261 thermostat he installed died, I
> re-installed the old mercury switch thermostat. As I mentioned, the
> system is working now. I enjoy doing small repairs that are within my
> capabilities and am completely confident that I can install and
> program a new electronic thermostat.

$7,000 for 2 systems is really cheap unless you provided the equipment. If
the installer provided the equipment and t-stats, the stats are still under
warranty. Call the installer back to make it good under warranty, unless he
is out of business because he didn't charge enough.

> I am still hopeful that someone in this group will confirm my
> expectation that I need to jumper the B and O terminals for a
> thermostat where they are separate terminals.

What did the directions to the thermostat say?? What do the books for the
air handler and heat pump say?? You need to know if the RV is energize in
heat or energize in cool. I know what it is, and will leave you to your
homework to figure it out.


Page 4 of 5       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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