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Posted by stevelibert@gmail.com on August 3, 2006, 2:49 am
Back in the spring, my 1987 Carrier Vertical GFA system wouldn't fire
up. I saw that after the HSI didn't come on, it went into shutdown
mode. I figured I'd replace the HSI before fall.
Now, $30 later, the new HSI still won't fire up. The draft induction
motor starts, but no HSI. Could this problem be in the control module?
Is there any suggestion for giving it another DYI repair before I call
in a pro? Any links? Thanks.
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Posted by Tony Hwang on August 3, 2006, 3:02 am
stevelibert@gmail.com wrote:
> Back in the spring, my 1987 Carrier Vertical GFA system wouldn't fire
> up. I saw that after the HSI didn't come on, it went into shutdown
> mode. I figured I'd replace the HSI before fall.
>
> Now, $30 later, the new HSI still won't fire up. The draft induction
> motor starts, but no HSI. Could this problem be in the control module?
> Is there any suggestion for giving it another DYI repair before I call
> in a pro? Any links? Thanks.
>
Hi,
You should hang a meter on the HSI connector to read 120V AC before
replacing it.(I keep a spare HSI all the time)
What is error code? If HSI does not glow it is not getting the 120V it
needs on time. Control board may have a cold solder joint due to heat.
Or relay which switches HSI power is not working. In this case it could
be relay itself or logic signal controlling it.
I have a same family furnace here and went thru logic board once so I am
quite familiar with it.
Again, what is error code?
One thing I can suggest you off my head is flip the board over and look
carefully under the two high Wattage resistors to see if the solder
joints is cracked due to heat. I mean hair line crack. Wiggle the
resistors to confirm it. If indeed tha's case, resolder the joint and
drill couple holds around the resistor on the plastic cover for good
cooling. BTW, manual has trouble-shooting flow chart.
Good luck,
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Posted by on August 3, 2006, 3:39 am
Ok, I've been doing some research, and see the next thing to test is
the pressure switch. I've seen some sites that say it should read 24v
across the terminals when the correct negative pressure it reached. Can
I get a clue where the switch is located?
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Posted by Tony Hwang on August 3, 2006, 9:49 am
stevelibert@gmail.com wrote:
> Ok, I've been doing some research, and see the next thing to test is
> the pressure switch. I've seen some sites that say it should read 24v
> across the terminals when the correct negative pressure it reached. Can
> I get a clue where the switch is located?
>
Hmmm,
If you don't know what/where pressure switch is, hmmm, it's near the
inducer motor. See that little clear hose? What is error code?
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Posted by Bob_Loblaw on August 3, 2006, 10:03 am
@pd7tw3no:
> stevelibert@gmail.com wrote:
>> Ok, I've been doing some research, and see the next thing to test is
>> the pressure switch. I've seen some sites that say it should read 24v
>> across the terminals when the correct negative pressure it reached. Can
>> I get a clue where the switch is located?
>>
> Hmmm,
> If you don't know what/where pressure switch is, hmmm, it's near the
> inducer motor. See that little clear hose? What is error code?
ROTFLMAO!!
OK, fess up..this is a test script for a new sitcom, right???
It's going to be a big hit, because it's hilarious!
--
Respectfully, Bob
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