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How Much outside Air?

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Subject Author Date
How Much outside Air? Bob Sisson 09-22-2007
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Posted by doofy@uh_huh.com on September 23, 2007, 4:02 pm
> We moved into a ~3500 sq.ft split level rambler in the spring.
>
> The 30 year old construction is MUCH better than average, with
> polyethylene vapor barriers in all the walls and ceilings, good windows,
> etc...
>
> Problem, is it is almost TOO tight. Stale air...
>
> Luckily, it is an All Electric house with a fairly recent and efficient
> Heatpump.
>
> The question is How much outside air to bring in?
>
> I was considering putting in a 6" duct with a motorized damper from the
> return to the outside. The Run would be about 25' when I get done snaking
> it where it can go.
>
> Will a 6" duct provide sufficient Air passively or do I need something
> like an in-line Fantek ?
>
> I will be controlling the damper with a home automation system than
> monitors the outside temp & humidity along with the inside and trying not
> to waste too much energy. I was also thinking about putting a pressure
> differential switch in so that when the Kitchen fan, dryer and/or the bath
> fans generate a negative pressure in the house the damper would also
> open...
>
> Eventually the duct would feed a whole house dehumidifier so I could get
> rid of the consoles in the furnace room... they keep the house comfortable
> at higher temperatures than using the AC to remove the humidity and use
> less energy to do so.
>
> I am in Central Maryland, just north of Washington DC... so we get all
> kinds of weather and humidity...
>
> POLITE thoughts please ?
>
>
> Bob
---------------------------------
You can be simple and use a 10 to 20 percent OA which is kind of a general rule
of thumb.
To do this you would need to know how much CFM is circulating thru your return
duct and
then calculate how big an damper is needed to provide the necessary amount of OA
CFM. If
you are going to use EMS controls then you can put in a good size damper and
regulate it.
If you don't want to calculate CFM flows then you can put a temp sensor to
monitor the SA
and adjust the OA damper based on RA and OA temps. Do it on a cold day and
adjust the SA to
be a few degrees lower then the RAT. This is a quick and dirty way but effective
if all
else fails. You can be more complicated and use a CO2 monitor and control the
outside air
based on that as long as you use EMS controls.

Les



Posted by Bob Sisson on September 24, 2007, 8:35 pm
Thanks... that makes sense

Bob



Posted by Joseph on September 22, 2007, 12:13 pm
> We moved into a ~3500 sq.ft split level rambler in the spring.
>
> The 30 year old construction is MUCH better than average, with
> polyethylene vapor barriers in all the walls and ceilings, good windows,
> etc...
>
> Problem, is it is almost TOO tight. Stale air...
>
> Luckily, it is an All Electric house with a fairly recent and efficient
> Heatpump.
>
> The question is How much outside air to bring in?
>
> I was considering putting in a 6" duct with a motorized damper from the
> return to the outside. The Run would be about 25' when I get done snaking
> it where it can go.
>
> Will a 6" duct provide sufficient Air passively or do I need something
> like an in-line Fantek ?
>
> I will be controlling the damper with a home automation system than
> monitors the outside temp & humidity along with the inside and trying not
> to waste too much energy. I was also thinking about putting a pressure
> differential switch in so that when the Kitchen fan, dryer and/or the bath
> fans generate a negative pressure in the house the damper would also
> open...
>
> Eventually the duct would feed a whole house dehumidifier so I could get
> rid of the consoles in the furnace room... they keep the house comfortable
> at higher temperatures than using the AC to remove the humidity and use
> less energy to do so.
>
> I am in Central Maryland, just north of Washington DC... so we get all
> kinds of weather and humidity...
>
> POLITE thoughts please ?
>
>
> Bob

If you want it properly sized have an HVAC company come out, if not
yeah it'll work???

>
>



Posted by geothermaljones on September 24, 2007, 9:42 am
MN codes call for 15 cfm/bedroom +15 for the rest of the house...
3 Bdrms =45+15= 60 cfm.
I'd put a 50% timer on a 120cfm ERV & call it a day.

Better yet, along w/the regular timer, I'd exhaust the bathrooms & put in
timers interlocked w/the light running 5-10 min. past light off . This keeps
the bathrooms negative & fresh air moving through the house & out.

goodluck
geothermaljones
st.paul,mn.


> We moved into a ~3500 sq.ft split level rambler in the spring.
>
> The 30 year old construction is MUCH better than average, with
polyethylene
> vapor barriers in all the walls and ceilings, good windows, etc...
>
> Problem, is it is almost TOO tight. Stale air...
>
> Luckily, it is an All Electric house with a fairly recent and efficient
> Heatpump.
>
> The question is How much outside air to bring in?
>
> I was considering putting in a 6" duct with a motorized damper from the
> return to the outside. The Run would be about 25' when I get done snaking
> it where it can go.
>
> Will a 6" duct provide sufficient Air passively or do I need something
like
> an in-line Fantek ?
>
> I will be controlling the damper with a home automation system than
monitors
> the outside temp & humidity along with the inside and trying not to waste
> too much energy. I was also thinking about putting a pressure
differential
> switch in so that when the Kitchen fan, dryer and/or the bath fans
generate
> a negative pressure in the house the damper would also open...
>
> Eventually the duct would feed a whole house dehumidifier so I could get
rid
> of the consoles in the furnace room... they keep the house comfortable at
> higher temperatures than using the AC to remove the humidity and use less
> energy to do so.
>
> I am in Central Maryland, just north of Washington DC... so we get all
kinds
> of weather and humidity...
>
> POLITE thoughts please ?
>
>
> Bob
>
>



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