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Posted by MLD on January 24, 2009, 4:08 pm
>>>>Don't want any help or advice.
>>> No problem then...
>> Your comments relative to my questions would have been appreciated. Too
>> bad you stopped at the top and didn't read further down.
>> MLD
> I suggest that you don't start your post with...
> "Don't want any help or advice."
> When you *do* want advice on experiences that others have.
> To give you input on silicone nitride ignitors, there are many different
> styles out in the field. There are some that work at 120 volts while there
> are others that work on 70 and 24 volts. Personally, the silicone nitride
> ignitors have been an overall success. I would rate the Honeywell 24 volt
> smart valve ignitor at the top of the class. With the ignitorsdirect 120
> volt "replacement" at the bottom of the class. Some of the conversion kits
> work well, while others create "other" ignition failures/problems. The
> nitride ignitor is far superior to the POS silicone carbibe ignitors that
> many manufactures have used for so many years.
> As far as HVAC equipment operational runtime goes, if the equipment is
> properly sized, installed and set-up to operate with-in the manufactures
> specifications, it will normally provide years and years of troublefree
> service. If it's oversized, not properly set-up, etc, etc... you will most
> likely end up with a POS that will provide you with comfort
> issues,equipment failures, etc, etc
> Your HVAC guy is like your doctor, you seek the most qualified, honest and
> reliable person and stick with them, period. You don't go looking for the
> cheapest hack you can find or you *will* have problems that compromise
> your comfort and safety. This becomes a nuisance and eventually, you will
> seek a competent tech to fix the problem once and for all.
Thanks for the response--agree with your initial comment -, should have been
more specific. The igniter in my furnace is one of the 80 volt types; hope
it lasts longer than the first one--especially so since the furnace has to
run unattended for about a month while we are away enjoying the warmth of
Florida. I never worried about the old dinosaur that I used to have--an
oversized 100K BTU furnace (vs 60K now) installed in 1961; had its first
problem about 1990--a clogged pilot burner orifice. Finally retired it in
2005. What we have now is heads and shoulders above the the dinosaur in
both in heating cost and the extra comfort associated with the even heating
etc. but
its electronics and reliability are worrisome to me.
MLD
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Posted by KJPRO on January 25, 2009, 5:22 pm
>>>>>Don't want any help or advice.
>>>> No problem then...
>>> Your comments relative to my questions would have been appreciated. Too
>>> bad you stopped at the top and didn't read further down.
>>> MLD
>> I suggest that you don't start your post with...
>> "Don't want any help or advice."
>> When you *do* want advice on experiences that others have.
>> To give you input on silicone nitride ignitors, there are many different
>> styles out in the field. There are some that work at 120 volts while
>> there are others that work on 70 and 24 volts. Personally, the silicone
>> nitride ignitors have been an overall success. I would rate the Honeywell
>> 24 volt smart valve ignitor at the top of the class. With the
>> ignitorsdirect 120 volt "replacement" at the bottom of the class. Some of
>> the conversion kits work well, while others create "other" ignition
>> failures/problems. The nitride ignitor is far superior to the POS
>> silicone carbibe ignitors that many manufactures have used for so many
>> years.
>> As far as HVAC equipment operational runtime goes, if the equipment is
>> properly sized, installed and set-up to operate with-in the manufactures
>> specifications, it will normally provide years and years of troublefree
>> service. If it's oversized, not properly set-up, etc, etc... you will
>> most likely end up with a POS that will provide you with comfort
>> issues,equipment failures, etc, etc
>> Your HVAC guy is like your doctor, you seek the most qualified, honest
>> and reliable person and stick with them, period. You don't go looking for
>> the cheapest hack you can find or you *will* have problems that
>> compromise your comfort and safety. This becomes a nuisance and
>> eventually, you will seek a competent tech to fix the problem once and
>> for all.
> Thanks for the response--agree with your initial comment -, should have
> been
> more specific. The igniter in my furnace is one of the 80 volt types;
> hope
> it lasts longer than the first one--especially so since the furnace has to
> run unattended for about a month while we are away enjoying the warmth of
> Florida. I never worried about the old dinosaur that I used to have--an
> oversized 100K BTU furnace (vs 60K now) installed in 1961; had its first
> problem about 1990--a clogged pilot burner orifice. Finally retired it in
> 2005. What we have now is heads and shoulders above the the dinosaur in
> both in heating cost and the extra comfort associated with the even
> heating etc. but
> its electronics and reliability are worrisome to me.
> MLD
You have money to live in Florida... then purchase a Sensaphone system...
it'll call you when the temperature of the home falls below a particular set
point. You can even call your home and check the status on Power, Temp,
etc... vary nice unit.
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Posted by MLD on January 25, 2009, 7:30 pm
>>>>>>Don't want any help or advice.
>>>>> No problem then...
>>>> Your comments relative to my questions would have been appreciated.
>>>> Too bad you stopped at the top and didn't read further down.
>>>> MLD
>>> I suggest that you don't start your post with...
>>> "Don't want any help or advice."
>>> When you *do* want advice on experiences that others have.
>>> To give you input on silicone nitride ignitors, there are many different
>>> styles out in the field. There are some that work at 120 volts while
>>> there are others that work on 70 and 24 volts. Personally, the silicone
>>> nitride ignitors have been an overall success. I would rate the
>>> Honeywell 24 volt smart valve ignitor at the top of the class. With the
>>> ignitorsdirect 120 volt "replacement" at the bottom of the class. Some
>>> of the conversion kits work well, while others create "other" ignition
>>> failures/problems. The nitride ignitor is far superior to the POS
>>> silicone carbibe ignitors that many manufactures have used for so many
>>> years.
>>> As far as HVAC equipment operational runtime goes, if the equipment is
>>> properly sized, installed and set-up to operate with-in the manufactures
>>> specifications, it will normally provide years and years of troublefree
>>> service. If it's oversized, not properly set-up, etc, etc... you will
>>> most likely end up with a POS that will provide you with comfort
>>> issues,equipment failures, etc, etc
>>> Your HVAC guy is like your doctor, you seek the most qualified, honest
>>> and reliable person and stick with them, period. You don't go looking
>>> for the cheapest hack you can find or you *will* have problems that
>>> compromise your comfort and safety. This becomes a nuisance and
>>> eventually, you will seek a competent tech to fix the problem once and
>>> for all.
>> Thanks for the response--agree with your initial comment -, should have
>> been
>> more specific. The igniter in my furnace is one of the 80 volt types;
>> hope
>> it lasts longer than the first one--especially so since the furnace has
>> to
>> run unattended for about a month while we are away enjoying the warmth of
>> Florida. I never worried about the old dinosaur that I used to have--an
>> oversized 100K BTU furnace (vs 60K now) installed in 1961; had its first
>> problem about 1990--a clogged pilot burner orifice. Finally retired it
>> in
>> 2005. What we have now is heads and shoulders above the the dinosaur in
>> both in heating cost and the extra comfort associated with the even
>> heating etc. but
>> its electronics and reliability are worrisome to me.
>> MLD
> You have money to live in Florida... then purchase a Sensaphone system...
> it'll call you when the temperature of the home falls below a particular
> set point. You can even call your home and check the status on Power,
> Temp, etc... vary nice unit.
Not that much money--stop off three times----twice with family and once for
a short motel (by the week) stay. Womb to tomb, including travel time, is
only about 3 weeks but still better than nothing. I've looked into the
"freeze alarm" systems but there are a couple of drawbacks with the ones
that I've seen. They don't work too well, compatibility wise, if you have a
telephone/answering system in place. And you need someone trustworthy who
will take on the responsibility of coming into the home, be willing to
arrange for a service call, hang around for the service tech (the company I
have my contract with will only give a 6 hour window) and then hang around
to oversee the process. All my family lives too far away or out of state to
be able to perform this function. I do have someone who makes a quick house
check about once a week. I also take some simple preventative
measures--shut off main water valve, open faucets and let the water drain,
put RV antifreeze in all the fixtures and traps ----Primarily, I just keep
my fingers crossed that the system performs troublefree for a few weeks.
MLD
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Posted by Don Ocean on January 26, 2009, 2:20 am
MLD wrote:
>
>>>>>>> Don't want any help or advice.
>>>>>> No problem then...
>>>>> Your comments relative to my questions would have been appreciated.
>>>>> Too bad you stopped at the top and didn't read further down.
>>>>> MLD
>>>> I suggest that you don't start your post with...
>>>> "Don't want any help or advice."
>>>> When you *do* want advice on experiences that others have.
>>>> To give you input on silicone nitride ignitors, there are many
>>>> different styles out in the field. There are some that work at 120
>>>> volts while there are others that work on 70 and 24 volts.
>>>> Personally, the silicone nitride ignitors have been an overall
>>>> success. I would rate the Honeywell 24 volt smart valve ignitor at
>>>> the top of the class. With the ignitorsdirect 120 volt "replacement"
>>>> at the bottom of the class. Some of the conversion kits work well,
>>>> while others create "other" ignition failures/problems. The nitride
>>>> ignitor is far superior to the POS silicone carbibe ignitors that
>>>> many manufactures have used for so many years.
>>>> As far as HVAC equipment operational runtime goes, if the equipment
>>>> is properly sized, installed and set-up to operate with-in the
>>>> manufactures specifications, it will normally provide years and
>>>> years of troublefree service. If it's oversized, not properly
>>>> set-up, etc, etc... you will most likely end up with a POS that will
>>>> provide you with comfort issues,equipment failures, etc, etc
>>>> Your HVAC guy is like your doctor, you seek the most qualified,
>>>> honest and reliable person and stick with them, period. You don't go
>>>> looking for the cheapest hack you can find or you *will* have
>>>> problems that compromise your comfort and safety. This becomes a
>>>> nuisance and eventually, you will seek a competent tech to fix the
>>>> problem once and for all.
>>> Thanks for the response--agree with your initial comment -, should
>>> have been
>>> more specific. The igniter in my furnace is one of the 80 volt
>>> types; hope
>>> it lasts longer than the first one--especially so since the furnace
>>> has to
>>> run unattended for about a month while we are away enjoying the
>>> warmth of
>>> Florida. I never worried about the old dinosaur that I used to have--an
>>> oversized 100K BTU furnace (vs 60K now) installed in 1961; had its first
>>> problem about 1990--a clogged pilot burner orifice. Finally retired
>>> it in
>>> 2005. What we have now is heads and shoulders above the the dinosaur in
>>> both in heating cost and the extra comfort associated with the even
>>> heating etc. but
>>> its electronics and reliability are worrisome to me.
>>> MLD
>> You have money to live in Florida... then purchase a Sensaphone
>> system... it'll call you when the temperature of the home falls below
>> a particular set point. You can even call your home and check the
>> status on Power, Temp, etc... vary nice unit.
>
> Not that much money--stop off three times----twice with family and once
> for a short motel (by the week) stay. Womb to tomb, including travel
> time, is only about 3 weeks but still better than nothing. I've looked
> into the "freeze alarm" systems but there are a couple of drawbacks with
> the ones that I've seen. They don't work too well, compatibility wise,
> if you have a telephone/answering system in place. And you need someone
> trustworthy who will take on the responsibility of coming into the home,
> be willing to arrange for a service call, hang around for the service
> tech (the company I have my contract with will only give a 6 hour
> window) and then hang around to oversee the process. All my family
> lives too far away or out of state to be able to perform this function.
> I do have someone who makes a quick house check about once a week. I
> also take some simple preventative measures--shut off main water valve,
> open faucets and let the water drain, put RV antifreeze in all the
> fixtures and traps ----Primarily, I just keep my fingers crossed that
> the system performs troublefree for a few weeks.
> MLD
Many colleges have a system of students that check in, feed pets or even
stay in the home for a very reasonable rate.
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Posted by The King on January 25, 2009, 8:02 pm
spaces for comments ):
>>>>>>Don't want any help or advice.
>>>>> No problem then...
>>>> Your comments relative to my questions would have been appreciated. Too
>>>> bad you stopped at the top and didn't read further down.
>>>> MLD
>>> I suggest that you don't start your post with...
>>> "Don't want any help or advice."
>>> When you *do* want advice on experiences that others have.
>>> To give you input on silicone nitride ignitors, there are many different
>>> styles out in the field. There are some that work at 120 volts while
>>> there are others that work on 70 and 24 volts. Personally, the silicone
>>> nitride ignitors have been an overall success. I would rate the Honeywell
>>> 24 volt smart valve ignitor at the top of the class. With the
>>> ignitorsdirect 120 volt "replacement" at the bottom of the class. Some of
>>> the conversion kits work well, while others create "other" ignition
>>> failures/problems. The nitride ignitor is far superior to the POS
>>> silicone carbibe ignitors that many manufactures have used for so many
>>> years.
>>> As far as HVAC equipment operational runtime goes, if the equipment is
>>> properly sized, installed and set-up to operate with-in the manufactures
>>> specifications, it will normally provide years and years of troublefree
>>> service. If it's oversized, not properly set-up, etc, etc... you will
>>> most likely end up with a POS that will provide you with comfort
>>> issues,equipment failures, etc, etc
>>> Your HVAC guy is like your doctor, you seek the most qualified, honest
>>> and reliable person and stick with them, period. You don't go looking for
>>> the cheapest hack you can find or you *will* have problems that
>>> compromise your comfort and safety. This becomes a nuisance and
>>> eventually, you will seek a competent tech to fix the problem once and
>>> for all.
>> Thanks for the response--agree with your initial comment -, should have
>> been
>> more specific. The igniter in my furnace is one of the 80 volt types;
>> hope
>> it lasts longer than the first one--especially so since the furnace has to
>> run unattended for about a month while we are away enjoying the warmth of
>> Florida. I never worried about the old dinosaur that I used to have--an
>> oversized 100K BTU furnace (vs 60K now) installed in 1961; had its first
>> problem about 1990--a clogged pilot burner orifice. Finally retired it in
>> 2005. What we have now is heads and shoulders above the the dinosaur in
>> both in heating cost and the extra comfort associated with the even
>> heating etc. but
>> its electronics and reliability are worrisome to me.
>> MLD
>You have money to live in Florida... then purchase a Sensaphone system...
>it'll call you when the temperature of the home falls below a particular set
>point. You can even call your home and check the status on Power, Temp,
>etc... vary nice unit.
A local alarm company could also provide temp alarms. He could have
it set up so the alarm company calls a prearranged hvac company to
respond.
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>>> No problem then...