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Insulate exisiting ducts embedded in concrete slab

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Insulate exisiting ducts embedded in concrete slab auctoron 01-10-2007
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Posted by auctoron on January 10, 2007, 9:55 am
Recently I replaced my wood-burning heater with a split-system heat
pump with a variable speed blower. Formerly the airflow direction was
UP and through ducts in the attic. With the new system I had the
contactor reverse the airflow, so that it's now DOWN and through
ducts that were formerly used for return air. These ducts are embedded
I the concrete slab. Problem: the air temperature exiting the new
supply resisters is never warm enough, even when the auxiliary heater
(electric resistance) is running. I fear that the concrete is absorbing
too much heat. In fact, there are places in the house where the floor
is noticeably warmer than most. Does his sound correct? If so, is there
an insulation product that I can install in the ducts (round PVC)?


Posted by jamesgangnc on January 10, 2007, 11:08 am
I fear you are right. Bad move dude. Anything that insulates
adequately is going to reduce the size of your ducts too much.

auctoron wrote:
> Recently I replaced my wood-burning heater with a split-system heat
> pump with a variable speed blower. Formerly the airflow direction was
> UP and through ducts in the attic. With the new system I had the
> contactor reverse the airflow, so that it's now DOWN and through
> ducts that were formerly used for return air. These ducts are embedded
> I the concrete slab. Problem: the air temperature exiting the new
> supply resisters is never warm enough, even when the auxiliary heater
> (electric resistance) is running. I fear that the concrete is absorbing
> too much heat. In fact, there are places in the house where the floor
> is noticeably warmer than most. Does his sound correct? If so, is there
> an insulation product that I can install in the ducts (round PVC)?


Posted by Bubba on January 10, 2007, 4:38 pm
On 10 Jan 2007 06:55:25 -0800, "auctoron"

>Recently I replaced my wood-burning heater with a split-system heat
>pump with a variable speed blower. Formerly the airflow direction was
>UP and through ducts in the attic. With the new system I had the
>contactor reverse the airflow, so that it's now DOWN and through
>ducts that were formerly used for return air. These ducts are embedded
>I the concrete slab. Problem: the air temperature exiting the new
>supply resisters is never warm enough, even when the auxiliary heater
>(electric resistance) is running. I fear that the concrete is absorbing
>too much heat. In fact, there are places in the house where the floor
>is noticeably warmer than most. Does his sound correct? If so, is there
>an insulation product that I can install in the ducts (round PVC)?

Im not sure who should get the moron of the year award.
You or your contractor?
Bubba

Posted by on January 10, 2007, 6:43 pm

>Recently I replaced my wood-burning heater with a split-system heat
>pump with a variable speed blower. Formerly the airflow direction was
>UP and through ducts in the attic. With the new system I had the
>contactor reverse the airflow, so that it's now DOWN and through
>ducts that were formerly used for return air. These ducts are embedded
>I the concrete slab. Problem: the air temperature exiting the new
>supply resisters is never warm enough, even when the auxiliary heater
>(electric resistance) is running. I fear that the concrete is absorbing
>too much heat. In fact, there are places in the house where the floor
>is noticeably warmer than most. Does his sound correct? If so, is there
>an insulation product that I can install in the ducts (round PVC)?


lucky for you, there IS a solution to your problem. Its not
inexpensive, but like I say, there is a solution. Actually you have
several choices to chose from. At least 3 solutions come to mind.

How many $$ is in your budget?

Posted by auctoron on January 16, 2007, 11:46 am
New info: The contractor had not completed the job. It turns out that
the old return (now supply) ducts had NO plenum. The blower was blowing
all my hot air into a very large undefined space below the fireplace
and heating massive amounts of concrete blocks, heavy-gage steel, and
stone before entering the ducts. And there were many leaks. Once he
added a plenum and sealed off all the leaks, the situation is much
better, but not great in all areas of the house.

My decision to insulate some of the ducts will depend on the cost to do
it. Can you give me any idea of the costs?


On Jan 10, 5:43 pm, gof...@gonefishin.net wrote:
> >Recently I replaced my wood-burning heater with a split-system heat
> >pump with a variable speed blower. Formerly the airflow direction was
> >UP and throughductsin the attic. With the new system I had the
> >contactor reverse the airflow, so that it's now DOWN and through
> >ductsthat were formerly used for return air. Theseductsareembedded
> >I theconcreteslab. Problem: the air temperature exiting the new
> >supply resisters is never warm enough, even when the auxiliary heater
> >(electric resistance) is running. I fear that theconcreteis absorbing
> >too much heat. In fact, there are places in the house where the floor
> >is noticeably warmer than most. Does his sound correct? If so, is there
> >an insulation product that I can install in theducts(round PVC)?lucky for
you, there IS a solution to your problem. Its not
> inexpensive, but like I say, there is a solution. Actually you have
> several choices to chose from. At least 3 solutions come to mind.
>
> How many $$ is in your budget?


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