Most efficient water heater?

There is no point to this approach, its backwards and will loose you
all the savings you just paid for. If the tankless and tank are 82%
efficent you are heating with one 82% burner and keeping it warm with
another 82% burner. You are heating with the tankless and allowing it
to cool in the tank, at about a 20% reduction in efficency rating.
Most of what you just paid for in increased efficency goes up the
center of the tank and out the chimney. The tank if hooked up should
before the tankless and only hold water unheated to allow it to warm
up by the surounding air to temper it, it works for me. Even better is
to strip of the insulation on the tank, your basement will always be
warmer then the incomming water main.

Posted by ransley on March 19, 2008, 10:13 am

> on a tankless feeding a regular tank, it should cost no more to

> operate than a regular hot water tank.

> the tankless initially heats the water to whatever it can, then sends

> the water to a regular tank that does its normal job.

> endless hot water regular tank conveniences and the only extra cost is

> the line between the tankless and regular tank, ideally it should be

> short and well insulated.

> true the tank will have normal tank losses.

> today i have to stop at home depot and while i am there price some hot

> water tanks. just to verify some of these issues:)

For pricing a tank look at a cheap uninsulated well tank.

Posted by Wayne Whitney on March 19, 2008, 11:11 am

> on a tankless feeding a regular tank, it should cost no more to

> operate than a regular hot water tank. the tankless initially heats

> the water to whatever it can, then sends the water to a regular tank

> that does its normal job.

A much better way to do this is to get an electric tank water heater,
remove the heating elements, and wire the thermostat to run a pump on
a loop to the tankless heater. Incoming cold and outgoing hot are
from the tank iteslf.

This way, the standby losses are that of an electric tank, which is
less than a gas tank due to the lack of a flue down the middle. An
advantage over tankless only is that the delivered hot water pressure
is higher, because the pressure drop from a tank is noticeably less
than from a tankless.

When I get around to installing solar hot water, this is probably the
way I'm going to go; the solar can be on another loop from the tank.

Cheers, Wayne

Posted by ransley on March 19, 2008, 2:01 pm

> > on a tankless feeding a regular tank, it should cost no more to

> > operate than a regular hot water tank. =A0the tankless initially heats

> > the water to whatever it can, then sends the water to a regular tank

> > that does its normal job.

> A much better way to do this is to get an electric tank water heater,

> remove the heating elements, and wire the thermostat to run a pump on

> a loop to the tankless heater. =A0Incoming cold and outgoing hot are

> from the tank iteslf.

> This way, the standby losses are that of an electric tank, which is

> less than a gas tank due to the lack of a flue down the middle. =A0An

> advantage over tankless only is that the delivered hot water pressure

> is higher, because the pressure drop from a tank is noticeably less

> than from a tankless.

> When I get around to installing solar hot water, this is probably the

> way I'm going to go; the solar can be on another loop from the tank.

> Cheers, Wayne

No point to having a tank circulate or change anything as that since
you are still talking same burner efficencies, this is dumb.

Posted by Donna Ohl on March 20, 2008, 12:55 am

On Tue, 18 Mar 2008 07:30:39 -0700 (PDT), ransley wrote:

>> Where's the A.O. Smith Vertex model GPHE-50 that Bubba recommended?

>> Don <www.donwiss.com> (e-mail link at home page bottom).

> I saw one unit near the bottom with an Energy Factor of 70, only a few

> in the 60s and most in the 50-60 range.

I should have mentioned that I searched for that PDF during my GAS water
heater replacement. http://tinyurl.com/38eh4d

That PDF only contained residential GAS water heater specifications (very
many hundreds or even a thousand or more).

It did not have any residential ELECTRIC water heater efficiency ratings
(some of which approach 98% due to the fact no heat goes up the flue; it's
all absorbed by the water).

Donna

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