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Posted by udarrell on July 20, 2006, 10:06 pm
Moe Jones wrote:
>After reading your post and seeing that you had to have it topped off every
>year, that may be a problem.
>
>My advise to call another A/C company other that the company that installed
>the system in the first place.
>
>Pay the money and have them come out and to check the duct work, the
>operation of the total system. You might be surprised on what they find.
>
>Heck I have even found systems when a part of the strip heater staying on
>while the A/C was running and have found holes in the return duct in the
>attic so the system was sucking in hot air from the attic. There could be
>allot wrong with your system so like I said get another company out there to
>check.
>
>
Moe, you said a mouthful! I am willing to bit that there is plenty wrong
and that the ductwork integrity (leaks, lack of insulation, improper
sizing, diffusers, etc.) and possibly a lack of airflow.
He needs someone that can run a valid manual D on every aspect of the
duct system.
Also, it appears the heat-gain rate needs to be slowed down.
Construction may have been sloppy allowing too much air infiltration, etc.
Start with the ductwork and 400-CFM airflow per ton of cooling or
2,000-CFM for the 5-Ton system! Read about static pressures, etc.
If the condenser is round with a top air discharge, measure the
temperature rise of the air off the condenser coil outdoors.
A 10-SEER 5-Ton condenser should have around a 23 to 25 degree temp rise
off the condenser. Let use know the indoor Supply Air and Return Air
temperature, & humidity if you can!
- udarrell
--
Air Conditioning's Affordable Path to the "Human Comfort Zone Goal"
http://www.udarrell.com/air-conditioning-total-heat-enthalpy-latent-heat.html
For HVAC Techs:
http://www.udarrell.com/ac-trouble-shooting-superheat-subcooling.html
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Posted by HoustonPi on July 20, 2006, 6:58 pm
> 5 ton unit on house now, 6 SEER I believe.
>
Correction, Unit is a 10 SEER.
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Posted by =?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?= on July 20, 2006, 9:09 pm
HoustonPi posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.
> The temperature in the office (masterbater's retreat) is now 78.3
>
Let me get this straight.. the office is where you retreat to masterbate?
--
Tekkie
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Posted by HoustonPi on July 21, 2006, 11:04 am
Tekkie wrote:Date: Thurs, Jul 20 2006 8:09 pm
> The temperature in the office (masterbater's retreat) is now 78.3
Let me get this straight.. the office is where you retreat to
masterbate?
--
Tekkie
From: Tekkie=AE - view profile
Date: Thurs, Jul 20 2006 8:12 pm
> But you've still got a small unit ?
You would think retreating to the office to materbate would have
improved his
unit. I know he certainly strengthened his forearm... >>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Wow, that's truely amazing. Two totally original cutdowns, in only a
matter of 3 minutes. How do you do it? Funny though, how when talking
about AC size, you go off on a masturbation tangent. TWICE. Are you
dynamiting the pond looking for someone with your own mastabatory
addictions? Maybe looking for a reach-around partner perhaps?
Something you'd like to share? On the other hand, I think you've
shared quite enough already.
No go churn your own butter or maybe go give some guy a PJ.
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Posted by PJ ;-) on July 21, 2006, 12:58 am
HoustonPi wrote:
> I just bought a new home about 1.75 years ago, and have been having AC
> problems ever since. My AC seems to run constantly, (set on auto).
>
> My electric bills have been in the $400 range and I think my unit is
> too small for the house.
>
What you're describing sounds like an undersized unit. Based on some
of the professionals in this forum, you'd understand how this occured.
> 3150 SqFt
Approx 292 m2.
> 5 ton unit on house now, 6 SEER I believe.
approx 17.5kW
> The builder says the unit is the right size. Their AC company agrees.
You expected different???????????
> The engineers have
> said the system is working at 100%. The AC company says the AC is
> working at 100%.
I agree its most likely it is at 100%.
You really need a heatload to correctly determine the required unit
capacity. However a good rule of thumb for a domestic would be 130w/m2
for the areas conditioned (this obviously varies on differant
projects). I you don't have zones, then this applies to the whole
house.
You currently have around 60W/m2 (simple math). Units appears too
small. You need around 40kW to do the whole house. If you zone it, and
isolate those zones from the rest of the house, the unit size will come
down.
Best of luck.
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