Need your expertise

>I compared 13 seer and 14 seer and here what I've got
>It should be at 308/90 HI/Low
>But I might be wrong also
>Just check data for 14 seer here
>http://www.goodmanmfg.com/Portals/0/pdf/ss-SSz14.pdf

>On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 13:56:03 -0800 (PST), HateThatHeatPump

>>I compared 13 seer and 14 seer and here what I've got
>>It should be at 308/90 HI/Low
>>But I might be wrong also
>>Just check data for 14 seer here
>>http://www.goodmanmfg.com/Portals/0/pdf/ss-SSz14.pdf

>Thanks for input.
>My HVAC tech says it should be about 350/100 or so for my heat pump.
>He has stated to throw out Goodman sheets. I'm awaiting his return
>right now to troubleshoot problem. He thinks unit was factory
>overcharge as only 6 oz was added for additional line length.
>Here's the response from Alpine when I questioned the strange specs in
>three emails:
>"The manufacturer's spec sheet is based of of ARI industry testing and
>should be correct. You have to note that your pressures will vary
>depending on your outdoor and indoor humidity along with the amount of
>air flow and the and charge the system has. These specs indicate what
>the correct pressures should be based on the delta T (or temperature
>drop across the evaporator coil) and the outdoor temperature. If your
>pressure seem off based on the outdoor temp, I would first look at
>delta T to see if it's correct."
>and
>"The manufacturer's specs are to be used as a reference for what the
>system pressures should be operating at. The difference in values
>will not change how the system should be charged. According to the
>install manual, the contractor will need to add 0.6 ounces of
>refrigerant for every foot of liquid line further than 15 feet. Once
>the additional refrigerant is added, the contractor will need to
>perform a superheat or subcooling calculation to verify the unit is
>operating and charged properly."
>I gotta repeat this phrase:
>" to be used as a reference for what the system pressures should be
>operating at"
>What the hell did he think I was using it for, except to do just that!
>BTW, Alpine says the only way to add refrigerant is by weight in heat
>mode. Tech says he has done superheat/subcooling check at 60 F but
>would prefer 70 F.
>It's 40 F here.....
>I'm beginning to think the only solution to the noisy machine is to
>sell tickets to a "heat pump bash".
>$100 for the first swing with a baseball bat at the thing
>$95 for the second
>$90 for the third
>etc etc
>The person who puts it completely out of it's misery will get their
>ticket money back.
>Afterwords we'll take it out to the country and roast it on a huge
>bonfire.
>I know quite a few people who would just love to get their
>frustrations out.

>>On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 13:56:03 -0800 (PST), HateThatHeatPump

>>>I compared 13 seer and 14 seer and here what I've got
>>>It should be at 308/90 HI/Low
>>>But I might be wrong also
>>>Just check data for 14 seer here
>>>http://www.goodmanmfg.com/Portals/0/pdf/ss-SSz14.pdf

>>Thanks for input.
>>My HVAC tech says it should be about 350/100 or so for my heat pump.
>>He has stated to throw out Goodman sheets. I'm awaiting his return
>>right now to troubleshoot problem. He thinks unit was factory
>>overcharge as only 6 oz was added for additional line length.
>>Here's the response from Alpine when I questioned the strange specs in
>>three emails:
>>"The manufacturer's spec sheet is based of of ARI industry testing and
>>should be correct. You have to note that your pressures will vary
>>depending on your outdoor and indoor humidity along with the amount of
>>air flow and the and charge the system has. These specs indicate what
>>the correct pressures should be based on the delta T (or temperature
>>drop across the evaporator coil) and the outdoor temperature. If your
>>pressure seem off based on the outdoor temp, I would first look at
>>delta T to see if it's correct."
>>and
>>"The manufacturer's specs are to be used as a reference for what the
>>system pressures should be operating at. The difference in values
>>will not change how the system should be charged. According to the
>>install manual, the contractor will need to add 0.6 ounces of
>>refrigerant for every foot of liquid line further than 15 feet. Once
>>the additional refrigerant is added, the contractor will need to
>>perform a superheat or subcooling calculation to verify the unit is
>>operating and charged properly."
>>I gotta repeat this phrase:
>>" to be used as a reference for what the system pressures should be
>>operating at"
>>What the hell did he think I was using it for, except to do just that!
>>BTW, Alpine says the only way to add refrigerant is by weight in heat
>>mode. Tech says he has done superheat/subcooling check at 60 F but
>>would prefer 70 F.
>>It's 40 F here.....
>>I'm beginning to think the only solution to the noisy machine is to
>>sell tickets to a "heat pump bash".
>>$100 for the first swing with a baseball bat at the thing
>>$95 for the second
>>$90 for the third
>>etc etc
>>The person who puts it completely out of it's misery will get their
>>ticket money back.
>>Afterwords we'll take it out to the country and roast it on a huge
>>bonfire.
>>I know quite a few people who would just love to get their
>>frustrations out.

>Ok,
>Jean, Im probably going to hate myself for doing this, ESPECIALLY
>since it seems you purchased it from alpine home air but here goes.

>Since I wasnt completly paying attention and Im not going to search
>back for it..............tell me again
>What is the EXACT model and serial of the outdoor unit AND the indoor
>unit.

>When, approximately, was it installed.

>Then I take it that your problem is noise during the defrost cycle?
>Bubba