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Needing Answers for 1-Zone Radiant floor installation

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Needing Answers for 1-Zone Radiant floor installation thecases 02-03-2007
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Posted by on February 3, 2007, 1:31 pm
I want to a single zone radiant floor system in order to heat the
ceramic floor of my family room. My plan was to use the existing
water heater since I'm only doing a single zone that measures roughly
15 x 15. So with that said could you kindly critique my plan. Please
follow the link.

http://picasaweb.google.com/thecases/RadiantFloorHeat/photo#5027374750864859074

Steps:
1. attach a tee or 2 zone manifold. One for Hot feed to house and one
for radiant zone.
2. On run to radiant zone install cutoff valve before the circulation
pump.
3. Install circulation pump. Question here, can I use a zone valve
instead?
4. Run my return line to another 2 zone manifold running into the hot
water heater
5. At the radiant zone return install another shut off valve.
6. Run my PEX allowing for double lines in between each floor joist.
5. Question: Based on my room dimensions I believe I'm going to be
reaching the limit for the length of recommended PEX? Room is 15 x 15
and based on double runs roughtly of 13' (26') per joists x 11 (spaced
16") joists= 286 feet.
7. How would I best handle the above situation? 2 runs/zones for this
one room? Will this be to much for my gas water heater?
8. Attach PEX to subfloor using staples.
9. Use aluminum heat transfer plates. Do I need to cover the entire
run of PEX? Can I use aluminum flashing?
10. Insulate and not allow but for maybe 2" of air space.

So, critique away!!

thanks

Jerry


Posted by on February 3, 2007, 2:02 pm
On 3 Feb 2007 10:31:50 -0800, thecases@gmail.com wrote:

>I want to a single zone radiant floor system in order to heat the
>ceramic floor of my family room. My plan was to use the existing
>water heater since I'm only doing a single zone that measures roughly
>15 x 15. So with that said could you kindly critique my plan. Please
>follow the link.

        It sucks.

        What the fuck does this group look like to you, fucking 'free
engineering advice for idiots dot com' ?????
Try BobFuckingVila.FuckingCom

        Fucking go away !!!!!


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Posted by Oscar_Lives on February 3, 2007, 3:12 pm

>I want to a single zone radiant floor system in order to heat the
> ceramic floor of my family room. My plan was to use the existing
> water heater since I'm only doing a single zone that measures roughly
> 15 x 15. So with that said could you kindly critique my plan. Please
> follow the link.
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/thecases/RadiantFloorHeat/photo#5027374750864859074
>
> Steps:
> 1. attach a tee or 2 zone manifold. One for Hot feed to house and one
> for radiant zone.
> 2. On run to radiant zone install cutoff valve before the circulation
> pump.
> 3. Install circulation pump. Question here, can I use a zone valve
> instead?
> 4. Run my return line to another 2 zone manifold running into the hot
> water heater
> 5. At the radiant zone return install another shut off valve.
> 6. Run my PEX allowing for double lines in between each floor joist.
> 5. Question: Based on my room dimensions I believe I'm going to be
> reaching the limit for the length of recommended PEX? Room is 15 x 15
> and based on double runs roughtly of 13' (26') per joists x 11 (spaced
> 16") joists= 286 feet.
> 7. How would I best handle the above situation? 2 runs/zones for this
> one room? Will this be to much for my gas water heater?
> 8. Attach PEX to subfloor using staples.
> 9. Use aluminum heat transfer plates. Do I need to cover the entire
> run of PEX? Can I use aluminum flashing?
> 10. Insulate and not allow but for maybe 2" of air space.
>
> So, critique away!!
>
> thanks
>
> Jerry


It looks like it was put together by a drunken retard.




Posted by on February 3, 2007, 4:39 pm
thecases@gmail.com wrote:

>I want to a single zone radiant floor system in order to heat the
>ceramic floor of my family room. My plan was to use the existing
>water heater since I'm only doing a single zone that measures roughly
>15 x 15. So with that said could you kindly critique my plan. Please
>follow the link.


suggest you ditch your half-baked plan and follow this link instead:

http://www.warmfloor.com/english/prod.htm






>
>http://picasaweb.google.com/thecases/RadiantFloorHeat/photo#5027374750864859074
>
>Steps:
>1. attach a tee or 2 zone manifold. One for Hot feed to house and one
>for radiant zone.
>2. On run to radiant zone install cutoff valve before the circulation
>pump.
>3. Install circulation pump. Question here, can I use a zone valve
>instead?
>4. Run my return line to another 2 zone manifold running into the hot
>water heater
>5. At the radiant zone return install another shut off valve.
>6. Run my PEX allowing for double lines in between each floor joist.
>5. Question: Based on my room dimensions I believe I'm going to be
>reaching the limit for the length of recommended PEX? Room is 15 x 15
>and based on double runs roughtly of 13' (26') per joists x 11 (spaced
>16") joists= 286 feet.
>7. How would I best handle the above situation? 2 runs/zones for this
>one room? Will this be to much for my gas water heater?
>8. Attach PEX to subfloor using staples.
>9. Use aluminum heat transfer plates. Do I need to cover the entire
>run of PEX? Can I use aluminum flashing?
>10. Insulate and not allow but for maybe 2" of air space.
>
>So, critique away!!
>
>thanks
>
>Jerry


Posted by TomCase@gmail.com on February 3, 2007, 4:47 pm
On Feb 3, 12:31 pm, theca...@gmail.com wrote:
> I want to a single zone radiant floor system in order to heat the
> ceramic floor of my family room. My plan was to use the existing
> water heater since I'm only doing a single zone that measures roughly
> 15 x 15. So with that said could you kindly critique my plan. Please
> follow the link.

Well, you probably guessed by now this forum does not generally
dispense any real advice. A site that you may find helpful is this
one:

http://www.radiantec.com/index.php

They specialize in radiant heat using water heaters as the heat source
and have a very nice site explaining the methods and plumbing needed
to do what you're thinking about.

Good luck!


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