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Needing Answers for 1-Zone Radiant floor installation thecases 02-03-2007
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Posted by Steve Scott on February 3, 2007, 5:37 pm
Their base system doesn't use a plate heat exchanger. If the OP is
seriously considering using the same WH for DHW and space heating they
should look to the plan that includes a plate exchanger.

wrote:

>On Feb 3, 12:31 pm, theca...@gmail.com wrote:
>> I want to a single zone radiant floor system in order to heat the
>> ceramic floor of my family room. My plan was to use the existing
>> water heater since I'm only doing a single zone that measures roughly
>> 15 x 15. So with that said could you kindly critique my plan. Please
>> follow the link.
>
>Well, you probably guessed by now this forum does not generally
>dispense any real advice. A site that you may find helpful is this
>one:
>
>http://www.radiantec.com/index.php
>
>They specialize in radiant heat using water heaters as the heat source
>and have a very nice site explaining the methods and plumbing needed
>to do what you're thinking about.
>
>Good luck!


--
I would have made a good Pope.
-Richard Nixon





Posted by AKS on February 3, 2007, 5:10 pm
Looking at you drawing I would be little skeptical of doing it,
as you are showing it supplying all of the floor with one feed it is my
opinion that you should install header on the feed and return and every
second pass what you showing now cut and install headers so that you
water flows more equally otherwise you may wind up with very hot spots
and not enough of heat at other. you also may require to add check
valve on water supply to you heater before return from you floor,
also your hot water must be kept at temperature around 120 F. so that
no one can get hurt "burn" be careful of what are you about to do
From Dido


>I want to a single zone radiant floor system in order to heat the
> ceramic floor of my family room. My plan was to use the existing
> water heater since I'm only doing a single zone that measures roughly
> 15 x 15. So with that said could you kindly critique my plan. Please
> follow the link.
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/thecases/RadiantFloorHeat/photo#5027374750864859074
>
> Steps:
> 1. attach a tee or 2 zone manifold. One for Hot feed to house and one
> for radiant zone.
> 2. On run to radiant zone install cutoff valve before the circulation
> pump.
> 3. Install circulation pump. Question here, can I use a zone valve
> instead?
> 4. Run my return line to another 2 zone manifold running into the hot
> water heater
> 5. At the radiant zone return install another shut off valve.
> 6. Run my PEX allowing for double lines in between each floor joist.
> 5. Question: Based on my room dimensions I believe I'm going to be
> reaching the limit for the length of recommended PEX? Room is 15 x 15
> and based on double runs roughtly of 13' (26') per joists x 11 (spaced
> 16") joists= 286 feet.
> 7. How would I best handle the above situation? 2 runs/zones for this
> one room? Will this be to much for my gas water heater?
> 8. Attach PEX to subfloor using staples.
> 9. Use aluminum heat transfer plates. Do I need to cover the entire
> run of PEX? Can I use aluminum flashing?
> 10. Insulate and not allow but for maybe 2" of air space.
>
> So, critique away!!
>
> thanks
>
> Jerry
>



Posted by Steve Scott on February 3, 2007, 5:15 pm
Where's the plate exchanger?

On 3 Feb 2007 10:31:50 -0800, thecases@gmail.com wrote:

>I want to a single zone radiant floor system in order to heat the
>ceramic floor of my family room. My plan was to use the existing
>water heater since I'm only doing a single zone that measures roughly
>15 x 15. So with that said could you kindly critique my plan. Please
>follow the link.
>
>http://picasaweb.google.com/thecases/RadiantFloorHeat/photo#5027374750864859074
>
>Steps:
>1. attach a tee or 2 zone manifold. One for Hot feed to house and one
>for radiant zone.
>2. On run to radiant zone install cutoff valve before the circulation
>pump.
>3. Install circulation pump. Question here, can I use a zone valve
>instead?
>4. Run my return line to another 2 zone manifold running into the hot
>water heater
>5. At the radiant zone return install another shut off valve.
>6. Run my PEX allowing for double lines in between each floor joist.
>5. Question: Based on my room dimensions I believe I'm going to be
>reaching the limit for the length of recommended PEX? Room is 15 x 15
>and based on double runs roughtly of 13' (26') per joists x 11 (spaced
>16") joists= 286 feet.
>7. How would I best handle the above situation? 2 runs/zones for this
>one room? Will this be to much for my gas water heater?
>8. Attach PEX to subfloor using staples.
>9. Use aluminum heat transfer plates. Do I need to cover the entire
>run of PEX? Can I use aluminum flashing?
>10. Insulate and not allow but for maybe 2" of air space.
>
>So, critique away!!
>
>thanks
>
>Jerry


--
I would have made a good Pope.
-Richard Nixon





Posted by on February 3, 2007, 11:04 pm
Where's the temperature controls?


> I want to a single zone radiant floor system in order to heat the
> ceramic floor of my family room. My plan was to use the existing
> water heater since I'm only doing a single zone that measures roughly
> 15 x 15. So with that said could you kindly critique my plan. Please
> follow the link.
>
>
http://picasaweb.google.com/thecases/RadiantFloorHeat/photo#5027374750864859
074
>
> Steps:
> 1. attach a tee or 2 zone manifold. One for Hot feed to house and one
> for radiant zone.
> 2. On run to radiant zone install cutoff valve before the circulation
> pump.
> 3. Install circulation pump. Question here, can I use a zone valve
> instead?
> 4. Run my return line to another 2 zone manifold running into the hot
> water heater
> 5. At the radiant zone return install another shut off valve.
> 6. Run my PEX allowing for double lines in between each floor joist.
> 5. Question: Based on my room dimensions I believe I'm going to be
> reaching the limit for the length of recommended PEX? Room is 15 x 15
> and based on double runs roughtly of 13' (26') per joists x 11 (spaced
> 16") joists= 286 feet.
> 7. How would I best handle the above situation? 2 runs/zones for this
> one room? Will this be to much for my gas water heater?
> 8. Attach PEX to subfloor using staples.
> 9. Use aluminum heat transfer plates. Do I need to cover the entire
> run of PEX? Can I use aluminum flashing?
> 10. Insulate and not allow but for maybe 2" of air space.
>
> So, critique away!!
>
> thanks
>
> Jerry
>



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