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HVAC Discussions - Heating, ventilation and air conditioning.
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Posted by Ed on December 18, 2006, 2:23 pm
You can't control both stages of the gas furnace with that stat with a
heat pump as primary and furnace as auxillary heat. X2 is the only
source from the stat for aux heat, therefore, W1 and W2 must be
jumpered together at the furnace.
Ed
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Posted by Jeffrey Lebowski on December 12, 2006, 10:23 pm
> I had a new Trane system installed recently in my home. It is an xl14i
> heat pump and xv90 gas furnace. When the heat turns on, there is a 1
> second rumble/vibration somewhere in the furnace, and about a 2 second
> rumble when the system shuts down. I've had the installer out 3 times
> and they can never fix it. Seems like they make it quieter, but in a
> couple days it's back. The furnace is in the garage and backs to one
> of the walls of our primary living area, so it is rather annoying to
> hear the thing rumble on and off. Has anyone else had similar issues?
> I don't want to pay > $10K for this new system, which is supposed to be
> so quiet I won't even know it's on (yeah, right).
>
Did anyone check to make sure the ductwork was adequately sized for the new
unit's blower cfm ?
--
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Posted by Jason on December 13, 2006, 12:11 am
Jeffrey Lebowski wrote:
> > I had a new Trane system installed recently in my home. It is an xl14i
> > heat pump and xv90 gas furnace. When the heat turns on, there is a 1
> > second rumble/vibration somewhere in the furnace, and about a 2 second
> > rumble when the system shuts down. I've had the installer out 3 times
> > and they can never fix it. Seems like they make it quieter, but in a
> > couple days it's back. The furnace is in the garage and backs to one
> > of the walls of our primary living area, so it is rather annoying to
> > hear the thing rumble on and off. Has anyone else had similar issues?
> > I don't want to pay > $10K for this new system, which is supposed to be
> > so quiet I won't even know it's on (yeah, right).
> >
>
> Did anyone check to make sure the ductwork was adequately sized for the new
> unit's blower cfm ?
>
> --
They said they did.
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Posted by udarrell on December 13, 2006, 8:30 am
Jason wrote:
>Jeffrey Lebowski wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>>Did anyone check to make sure the ductwork was adequately sized for the new
>>unit's blower cfm ?
>>
>>
>
>They said they did.
>
>
They need to make all those tests while you are watching the actual
results of the tests.
You have to verify everything they did during the entire installation.
However, first you have to know how the installation & its sequence
procedures should have been properly done!
Follow the links on my Website, print & read the pages & then ask them
to list there installation procedures in writing.
You paid $10K, - they can afford to do that for you!
You deserve to get the operating efficiencies & the quality installation
that they represented to you. - udarrell
--
PROPER A/C UNIT & DUCTWORK Sizing is over 70% of Operating Efficiency
http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_btuh_duct_sizing_air_conditioning_systems.html
Air Conditioning Installations Now Produce 95% Failure Rate
http://www.eeba.org/conference/2004/presentations/Proctor1.pdf
Solving - External Static Pressure (ESP)
http://www.udarrell.com/udarrell-air-conditioning.html
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Posted by Bubba on December 13, 2006, 11:21 am
>
>Jeffrey Lebowski wrote:
>> > I had a new Trane system installed recently in my home. It is an xl14i
>> > heat pump and xv90 gas furnace. When the heat turns on, there is a 1
>> > second rumble/vibration somewhere in the furnace, and about a 2 second
>> > rumble when the system shuts down. I've had the installer out 3 times
>> > and they can never fix it. Seems like they make it quieter, but in a
>> > couple days it's back. The furnace is in the garage and backs to one
>> > of the walls of our primary living area, so it is rather annoying to
>> > hear the thing rumble on and off. Has anyone else had similar issues?
>> > I don't want to pay > $10K for this new system, which is supposed to be
>> > so quiet I won't even know it's on (yeah, right).
>> >
>>
>> Did anyone check to make sure the ductwork was adequately sized for the new
>> unit's blower cfm ?
>>
>> --
>
>They said they did.
Jason,
You can re-enable the Adaptive Intelligent recovery on the stat but it
sounds like your system has more problems. Changing blower speeds
because of noise is a sign of an improperly sized system or duct work
or both. Each time the blower speed is changed the refrigerant charge
needs to be re-checked along with all the performance data. Yes! It
makes a difference. It will affect the performance.
There is no "rule of thumb" on when to operate a heat pump or gas
furnace. It depends on the price of the gas and electric in your area
and the balance point of your home.Your installers should have given
you all this info. Balance point is the point where the heat pump
will no longer produce enough heat to keep your home at set
temperature. The comfort R feature is no big deal. It provides a
little more comfort while sacraficing a little bit of efficiency. You
can use either way and see which you like.
W1 and W2 jumpered is the lazy ass way to make a system use both
stages. Unfortunately, the last stage of heat wont come on until the
set time period in the board (up to 15 mins) has elapsed NO matter how
cold it is in your home. This can get rather nippy on a cold winter
morning when you wake. It needs to be properly wired to a multi-stage
thermostat such as the Honeywell Vision Pro stat (and YES, I hate
advertising like that. They should pay me).
Your O terminal should be wired to the reversing valve. YLo and Y are
for a 2 speed heat pump.
Your fossil fuel board on the side of the furnace is a termination for
most all the low voltage wiring. It handles the switching of the heat
pump, furnace, defrost cycle and cooling. If you have the H/W Vision
Pro stat, it handles all the functions of that fossil fuel kit. I
prefer that way as it removes a lot of controls which can always
malfunction and cost the homeowner money.
Your system sounds like it isnt working in proper order/sequence.
First stage heat pump should always heat first unless it is colder
outside than the outdoor temp selection or if the system is in
defrost. Continued dropping of the temperature in the house shuts off
the heat pump and brings on the second stage of gas heat. A further
drop brings on the 3rd stage of gas heat. Keep in mind that the H/W
does have its own information logged and will vary this a bit
according to the needs IT thinks IT needs. This is also if it is all
wired properly and dip switch setting are set right.
AGAIN, you need to call the installing company. Tell them your
intentions.......that your system is not working properly and you want
to have it working as it should. If they cant handle that request,
then call another dealer and maybe even a Trane Rep and have it done
right. Then decide what you are going to do to recoup the extra
dollars you paid to have it done right.
You also need to wisely decide to purchase a 5 or 10 yr parts AND
labor warranty. It will be well worth it.
And Finally.......This is more info than Ive produced in a long long
time. You should pay me for it :-)
NONE of this info is meant for you to get in and start mucking around
with settings. You dont have the knowledge or know how. Have a trained
professional do it.
Bubba
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Page 7 of 8 < 1 2 3 > last >>
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