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Posted by Bubba on December 13, 2006, 7:17 pm
>
>Bubba wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >Bubba wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >Jeffrey Lebowski wrote:
>> >> >> > I had a new Trane system installed recently in my home. It is an
xl14i
>> >> >> > heat pump and xv90 gas furnace. When the heat turns on, there is a 1
>> >> >> > second rumble/vibration somewhere in the furnace, and about a 2 second
>> >> >> > rumble when the system shuts down. I've had the installer out 3 times
>> >> >> > and they can never fix it. Seems like they make it quieter, but in a
>> >> >> > couple days it's back. The furnace is in the garage and backs to one
>> >> >> > of the walls of our primary living area, so it is rather annoying to
>> >> >> > hear the thing rumble on and off. Has anyone else had similar issues?
>> >> >> > I don't want to pay > $10K for this new system, which is supposed to
be
>> >> >> > so quiet I won't even know it's on (yeah, right).
>> >> >> >
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Did anyone check to make sure the ductwork was adequately sized for the
new
>> >> >> unit's blower cfm ?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> --
>> >> >
>> >> >They said they did.
>> >>
>> >> Jason,
>> >> You can re-enable the Adaptive Intelligent recovery on the stat but it
>> >> sounds like your system has more problems. Changing blower speeds
>> >> because of noise is a sign of an improperly sized system or duct work
>> >> or both. Each time the blower speed is changed the refrigerant charge
>> >> needs to be re-checked along with all the performance data. Yes! It
>> >> makes a difference. It will affect the performance.
>> >> There is no "rule of thumb" on when to operate a heat pump or gas
>> >> furnace. It depends on the price of the gas and electric in your area
>> >> and the balance point of your home.Your installers should have given
>> >> you all this info. Balance point is the point where the heat pump
>> >> will no longer produce enough heat to keep your home at set
>> >> temperature. The comfort R feature is no big deal. It provides a
>> >> little more comfort while sacraficing a little bit of efficiency. You
>> >> can use either way and see which you like.
>> >> W1 and W2 jumpered is the lazy ass way to make a system use both
>> >> stages. Unfortunately, the last stage of heat wont come on until the
>> >> set time period in the board (up to 15 mins) has elapsed NO matter how
>> >> cold it is in your home. This can get rather nippy on a cold winter
>> >> morning when you wake. It needs to be properly wired to a multi-stage
>> >> thermostat such as the Honeywell Vision Pro stat (and YES, I hate
>> >> advertising like that. They should pay me).
>> >> Your O terminal should be wired to the reversing valve. YLo and Y are
>> >> for a 2 speed heat pump.
>> >> Your fossil fuel board on the side of the furnace is a termination for
>> >> most all the low voltage wiring. It handles the switching of the heat
>> >> pump, furnace, defrost cycle and cooling. If you have the H/W Vision
>> >> Pro stat, it handles all the functions of that fossil fuel kit. I
>> >> prefer that way as it removes a lot of controls which can always
>> >> malfunction and cost the homeowner money.
>> >> Your system sounds like it isnt working in proper order/sequence.
>> >> First stage heat pump should always heat first unless it is colder
>> >> outside than the outdoor temp selection or if the system is in
>> >> defrost. Continued dropping of the temperature in the house shuts off
>> >> the heat pump and brings on the second stage of gas heat. A further
>> >> drop brings on the 3rd stage of gas heat. Keep in mind that the H/W
>> >> does have its own information logged and will vary this a bit
>> >> according to the needs IT thinks IT needs. This is also if it is all
>> >> wired properly and dip switch setting are set right.
>> >> AGAIN, you need to call the installing company. Tell them your
>> >> intentions.......that your system is not working properly and you want
>> >> to have it working as it should. If they cant handle that request,
>> >> then call another dealer and maybe even a Trane Rep and have it done
>> >> right. Then decide what you are going to do to recoup the extra
>> >> dollars you paid to have it done right.
>> >> You also need to wisely decide to purchase a 5 or 10 yr parts AND
>> >> labor warranty. It will be well worth it.
>> >> And Finally.......This is more info than Ive produced in a long long
>> >> time. You should pay me for it :-)
>> >> NONE of this info is meant for you to get in and start mucking around
>> >> with settings. You dont have the knowledge or know how. Have a trained
>> >> professional do it.
>> >> Bubba
>> >
>> >Thanks for the reply. I plan on having the installer back on Friday
>> >and describing all of these things again to him. You mention the
>> >thermostat can control the fossil-fuel kit. I notice my thermostat has
>> >an option to enable using the fossil fuel kit, but it is currently
>> >disabled. I'll ask the installer about this as well, but could that
>> >cause any issues?
>> >
>> >Thanks
>> >Jason
>>
>> NO! Now dont get confused. If you have a stat like the H/W Vision Pro
>> you do NOT need that fossil fuel kit you have hanging on the side of
>> your furnace. The stat does all the switching, thinking and changing.
>> If you ARE using the fossil fuel kit hanging on the side of your
>> furnace then that option should be disabled in the stat.
>> Bubba
>
>After searching the web, it appears that my thermostat is the honeywell
>vision pro, with a Trane name. So why did they choose to use the
>fossil fuel kit when the thermostat is fully capable of doing the job?
That thermostat has not been out all that long. Just a few short years
back we HAD to use the fossil fuel kit.
Why did they choose to use the fossil fuel kit AND the Vision
Pro/Trane stat?
Your guess is as good as mine. My guess would be that they dont seem
to have a clue.
Bubba
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