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Posted by udarrell on December 13, 2006, 8:14 am
Jason wrote:
>>At this stage of the game you need to start over. You need to have
>>everything checked out to see if it is all wired correctly, charged
>>correctly and installed correctly. From what you've explained Id find
>>someone other than who you had install it. They are complete idiots or
>>lazy or both.
>>The Adaptive Intelligent Recovery feature works very well. It is
>>designed to save you money by using the first stage heat pump to heat
>>your home as much as it can. Depending on how far you set your stat
>>back at night, how cold out it is and the balance point of your home,
>>your system may come on at 3:30am and even earlier.....much earlier.
>>It may take several days or more for your thermostat to develop a
>>memory of how early to start your system in the morning.
>>Your 14 SEER Trane heat pump is NOT noisey. If it is, it is not
>>installed properly. They are very quiet.
>>If your system is wired properly the stat will control all 3 stages.
>>If the installer were lazy, then the furnace control board dip switch
>>will control the last stage of heat according to time............and
>>Yes, you have a 3H-1C system.
>>As of now, you've wasted a ton of money on a system that isnt working
>>anywhere near how it should.
>>Bubba
>>
>>
>
>Thanks, I figured I'd eventually have to get someone else out here. I
>was hoping to learn as much as I can about the system in general from
>you folks beforehand so I have some clue as to what to look for.
>
>I can re-enable the intelligent recovery again and see how it goes.
>>From a savings perspective, is 4 hours of heat pump generally more
>efficient than 2 hours of gas? Is there a general rule of thumb? If
>I'm saving a lot with the sole use of the heat pump than I'd feel
>better about the long startup.. And yes, the heat pump is quiet, much
>quieter than my previous A/C, but at 4am in the dead of night, it can
>still wake me up since it's close to my bedroom.
>
>
Any possible savings using the heat pump depends on the cost of
electricity compared to gas prices.
The above also depends on how efficient the system is operating "in each
mode."
>Another thing the installer did that I didn't think was right was
>ratchet down the cfm output to try to fix/mask the noise issues. It
>was originally set to normal, they dropped it down to medium-low, when
>I still complained a week later, they dropped it down again to low.
>Won't this affect the efficiency of the system? Should I put it back
>to 'normal' since it did nothing for the rumble/vibration issues? They
>also have the Comfort-R disabled. Is that something that I should be
>enabling?
>
>
Proper airflow levels are critical to the efficient operation of all of
the heating modes.
The listed blower motor speeds, to be used, may NOT even be delivering
the required airflow!
Read all the links below & have the actual airflow CFM checked along
with the ductwork!
Bring everything up to the required specs, "& then do the proper tests
to verify the results."
I would guess that the heat pump might be operating at a lower percent
of its rated efficiency - than the gas mode!
>I know my way around electronics, is there anything specific I could
>check to see if there is any screwed up wiring or settings?
>Thanks, Jason
>
>
There is a chance that it is not wired properly. - udarrell
--
PROPER A/C UNIT & DUCTWORK Sizing is over 70% of Operating Efficiency
http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_btuh_duct_sizing_air_conditioning_systems.html
Air Conditioning Installations Now Produce 95% Failure Rate
http://www.eeba.org/conference/2004/presentations/Proctor1.pdf
Solving - External Static Pressure (ESP)
http://www.udarrell.com/udarrell-air-conditioning.html
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