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OLD Rudd Furnace - Burner will not stay lit.

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OLD Rudd Furnace - Burner will not stay lit. Jim 02-26-2007
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Posted by Jim on February 26, 2007, 2:57 pm

>
> Here's the short and sweet of it.... that is a 100,000 natural gas furnace
> with a 2 ton, direct drive blower, and was manufactured in the 27th week
> of 1979...... that makes it 27 years old. They only build them to last
> 18 - 20 years with correct installation and proper maintenance. Its long
> past time to replace the furnace with a new one.
> There is a high probablility that the new furnace will pay for itself in
> just a couple of years in energy savings and keep you a lot more
> comfortable.
>
> BTW, your furnace is shutting down on a safety, and screwing around with
> it, without finding out what the root cause of the problem is, and
> correcting it, could be potentially dangerous to you and your family.
>
>
>

Finally a reply worth reading! Thank you! I know it's old, but I am not
sure of the In-Service date. I have plans to replace it soon when I remodel
the backroom addition. About 2-3 years ago I replaced the blower motor (due
to bearing vibration), the parts shop look at the old motor and said Wow,
I'm surprised this old thing still ran.

Cheers,
Jim



Posted by jamesgangnc on February 26, 2007, 10:45 am
> Rudd Model= UGAA-10EC, Serial #=TN3D104 M2779 3228
> Electronic Ignition Furnace (Spark)
>
> Problem: Originally, the pilot light worked but the main burners would not
> light. I cleaned the Flame Sensor tip with some light sand paper. Now, the
> main burners will light but they quickly shut off after about 10-30 secs.
> If I hold a long-stick candle lighter to the Flame sensor when the main
> burner lights I can get the sensor hot enought to keep the furnace going for
> a several minutes.
>
> OK, so bad sensor and/or weak flame? Does the sensor need to be glowing red
> hot? The flame looks ok to me, but a Tech I called who is out of state said
> the gas company is putting something in the gas that is clogging up the
> furnaces. My problem just started last night. I'm thinking about removing
> the small gas line from the controller to the pilot-light point and clean it
> out from end to end. Next step replace the sensor (Automatic Pilot E1 Type
> 3098-136). I was also wondering if this has a gas filter I could change?
> The GAS controller has several numbers on it 7921 E11, also has Model
> 36c84, type 220, 24v 60hz, max pr 1/2 psi, filter cap 2cfh air.
>
> Thanks for your time.
>
> Cheers,
> Jim

It is very unlikely that the line to the pilot is clogged. There is
not any gas filters. I've never heard of the "something in the gas
that is clogging up furnaces" story before. It could be the flame
sensor or a number of other things. Without specifications and test
equipment you will have to resort to replacing suspect items. That
can get expensive pretty quickly and nothing electrical will be
returnable. If you really want to go that route I imagine most people
would guess the sensor as the next likely item. Your unit is well
into the end of it's life expectancy. And as others pointed out it is
a bit dangerous to mess around with gas appliances.


Posted by Jim on February 26, 2007, 3:05 pm

>
> It is very unlikely that the line to the pilot is clogged. There is
> not any gas filters. I've never heard of the "something in the gas
> that is clogging up furnaces" story before. It could be the flame
> sensor or a number of other things. Without specifications and test
> equipment you will have to resort to replacing suspect items. That
> can get expensive pretty quickly and nothing electrical will be
> returnable. If you really want to go that route I imagine most people
> would guess the sensor as the next likely item. Your unit is well
> into the end of it's life expectancy. And as others pointed out it is
> a bit dangerous to mess around with gas appliances.
>

Thank you for your reply. I may have poorly worded the "something in the
gas" story, the sensor was a bit frosted (white power/coating), that's what
the tech mean't by something in the gas. I figured it out this morning,
read me last post if you want to know what was wrong.

Cheers,
Jim



Posted by Bubba on February 26, 2007, 3:39 pm
On 26 Feb 2007 07:45:18 -0800, "jamesgangnc"

>> Rudd Model= UGAA-10EC, Serial #=TN3D104 M2779 3228
>> Electronic Ignition Furnace (Spark)
>>
>> Problem: Originally, the pilot light worked but the main burners would not
>> light. I cleaned the Flame Sensor tip with some light sand paper. Now, the
>> main burners will light but they quickly shut off after about 10-30 secs.
>> If I hold a long-stick candle lighter to the Flame sensor when the main
>> burner lights I can get the sensor hot enought to keep the furnace going for
>> a several minutes.
>>
>> OK, so bad sensor and/or weak flame? Does the sensor need to be glowing red
>> hot? The flame looks ok to me, but a Tech I called who is out of state said
>> the gas company is putting something in the gas that is clogging up the
>> furnaces. My problem just started last night. I'm thinking about removing
>> the small gas line from the controller to the pilot-light point and clean it
>> out from end to end. Next step replace the sensor (Automatic Pilot E1 Type
>> 3098-136). I was also wondering if this has a gas filter I could change?
>> The GAS controller has several numbers on it 7921 E11, also has Model
>> 36c84, type 220, 24v 60hz, max pr 1/2 psi, filter cap 2cfh air.
>>
>> Thanks for your time.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Jim
>
>It is very unlikely that the line to the pilot is clogged. There is
>not any gas filters.

and thats exactly why you shouldnt be giving advice. You've obviously
never taken a gas valve apart. Many of them have filters in them. They
just arent meant to be "user serviceable"

> I've never heard of the "something in the gas
>that is clogging up furnaces" story before.

Then why do orifices in pilot burners have to be cleaned?

> It could be the flame
>sensor or a number of other things.

Hey.......good guess, Einstein.

> Without specifications and test
>equipment you will have to resort to replacing suspect items. That
>can get expensive pretty quickly and nothing electrical will be
>returnable. If you really want to go that route I imagine most people
>would guess the sensor as the next likely item.

Nope. Wrong again. Everyone knows you have to replace the thermostat
first.

> Your unit is well
>into the end of it's life expectancy. And as others pointed out it is
>a bit dangerous to mess around with gas appliances.


........and as for James, dont worry. I wont show up at your doorstep.
Especially to work on a rooftop unit.
Bubba

Posted by -zero on February 26, 2007, 11:37 am



> OK, so bad sensor and/or weak flame?

Your not so sure ...but then you go for it.

> Next step replace the sensor (Automatic Pilot E1 Type 3098-136).

This WILL get expensive in just a little bit.

It could be quite a few things. It would be also be
irresponsible to attempt an even close-to-proper
diagnosis over Usenet.

-zero



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