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Posted by wyredog on July 19, 2006, 10:31 pm
Noon-Air wrote:
> >>> In most cases, there is a resistor across the terminals of the
> >>> capacitor, so that it loses its charge in a few minutes (or sooner)
> >>> after being turned off.
> >>>
> >>> You cannot assume that it is the case for YOU without knowing for sure
> >>> (ie, seeing and identifying the bleed resistor).
> >>>
> >>> The first thing to do is to identify two terminals of the
> >>> capacitor. If you cannot do that, safety considerations suggest to put
> >>> everything back and call a "qualified expert". If you see two
> >>> terminals, take an isolated screwdriver by its isolated handle
> >>> (without touching metal) and make sure that you connect two ends of
> >>> the capacitor with the screwdriver.
> >>>
> >>> Most likely (as would be in the case of a bleed resistor), nothing
> >>> would happen, but if the cap holds a charge, you can hear a loud
> >>> discharge. After you make 100% sure that the cap is discharged, it is
> >>> safe to handle it (and if you like to be really careful, you do not
> >>> have to touch the terminals anyway).
> >>>
> >>> Why do you think that you need to replace the caps?
> >>>
> >> Thanks for the info!
> >>
> >> I think the cap is the cheapest thing that may be the likely fix. See
> >> what you think:
> >>
> >> A few days ago I cam home to a silent outside unit (no fan no
> >> compressor nothing). Found that the 30A breaker was thrown. Turned it
> >> back on and it flipped off after a couple seconds. Later I tried it
> >> again jsut because I was hot hand had nothing else to think about.
> >> This time it worked...the heat pump turned on and ran as if nothing
> >> were wrong.
> >
> > Do you have a wife or anyone else who can turn on the breaker from
> > inside while you are outside, listening? Does it pop instantly or
> > after some little time? Does the A/C make a humming noise during that
> > time?
> >
> > i
> >
> >> So I replaced the breaker hoping it was just to weak.
> >
> > The breaker has to match the A/C, you know.
> >
> >> Same scenario with it. The AC will run ..on ...off on...off through
> >> several cooling cycles then one time it will throw the breaker and
> >> that's all she wrote until I go into the crawl space and turn the
> >> breaker on again.
> >>
> >> Other relavent factors: The unit is only 3 years old, Arco Air made by
> >> Carrier. And it has been record heat here since just before this
> >> began......causing the unit to run very frequently
> >>
> >
> > I dunno, it possibly is not the capacitor. If you have a multimeter
> > (as you should) with a capacitance, tester, you can test it (it could
> > be bad at 220VAC even if tests OK by the tester, but still it is good
> > to test).
> >
> > Do not assume too much too soon. Could be that something makes the
> > motor run harder than it should, for example. Some good investigation
> > and careful writing down of the facts could help.
> >
> > You may need to "hire a pro", eventually, but you would run less of a
> > chance of being taken to cleaners if you form a good picture of what
> > is going on. Or maybe you can just fix it.
>
> I hate working on stuff *after* some fool (the home owner) has screwed with
> it..... thats even worse(and a lot more expensive) that fixing jackleg
> screw-ups.
> A breaker that trips is NOT a good thing... a breaker is a SAFETY
> DEVICE...if it trips, there is a reason.
> Call a competent tech to find out WHY the breaker tripped, and get it
> repaired correctly.
" Professional " wanted to charge me $950 to replace the compressor
(which is under warrranty) and dryer and cap. Schwew...ran the same
stuff by antoher and got a 350 estimate...thought a cap and breaker
were good simple places to start
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