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Posted by on September 6, 2007, 1:38 am
>
> >
> > > on 9/5/2007 5:17 PM HeyBub said the following:
> > > > kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > >>> I don't think so. A "slight" leak will generate an icicle.
> > > >>>
> > > >> And can cause a line blockage.
> > > >> Anyway, it's against code!
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > > Goddamn it! Building codes specifically REQUIRE P&T valves to be
> vented
> > > > outside (or an approved alternate - which never includes UP).
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>
> > > >>> In the event the
> > > >>> line IS blocked with ice, a let-loose pressure valve will blow the
> > > >>> freakin' plug into the next county! Either that, or you'll have
the
> > > >>> nastiest pipe-bomb imaginable.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> T&P valves aren't designed to "leak" or "relieve excess pressure."
> > > >>>
> > > >> Whether their designed too or not, that doesn't mean it doesn't
> > > >> happen. You've never saw one that was corroded because it had a
slow
> > > >> leak?
> > > >> You're showing that you have no experience with PT valves.
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > > I agree they sometimes leak. Just like a water faucet sometimes
leaks.
> > What
> > > > makes you assume I've never seen a leaky one? How did you reach that
> > > > conclusion?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>
> > > >>> They are
> > > >>> designed to simulate an SLV (Saturn Lauch Vehicle) by blowing all
to
> > > >>> hell. They don't tweet like a tea-pot, they go BOOM!
> > > >>>
> > > >> Design and "what happens in the field" is sometimes two completely
> > > >> different things.
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > > Right. Sometimes fail-safe systems fail by failing to fail safe.
> > Sometimes
> > > > fail-safe systems fail because a cretin installed them - as in not
> > venting a
> > > > P&T valve to the outside.
> > >
> > > What do I do in my house? The Water Heater is in the basement and
there
> > > is no exit for a pipe that is not 6' below ground.
> > > The best I can do is to have the T&P pipe dump into a pail with a sump
> > > pump that will get it above ground.
> > > The Water Softener suffers the same restriction and it is across the
> > > cellar from the heater.
> > > This house was approved by an inspector.
> >
> >
> > It's not *required* to be piped outside, no matter how many times Heybub
> > says so...
> >
>
> Pretty sure I read up on this one just recently...and recall needs to go
> almost to the floor leaving just enough room so as to comfortably fit your
> foot directly underneath so if someone messes with the pop-off it will
only
> scald the living fuck outa your little piggy.
Right from the warning tag....
Warning:
To avoid water damage and/or scalding due to valve operation, a discharge
line must be connected to valve and run to a safe place of disposal. The
discharge line must be as short as possible and must be of the same size as
the valve discharge connection throughout its entire length. The discharge
line must pitch downward from the valve and terminate at least 6" (152 mm)
above a drain where any discharge will be clearly visible. The discharge
line must terminate through plain (unthreaded) pipe. Discharge material must
conform to local plumbing code or A.S.M.E. requirements. Excessive length
more than 30 feet (9.14 m), use of more than four elbows or bends in
discharge piping, or reduction of discharge line size will cause a
restriction and reduce the discharge capacity of the valve. No shut-off
valve should be installed between the relief valve and the tank, or in the
discharge line.
If they can't understand that... they need to call a professional!!!!
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