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Running a 1/4 hp 220 VAC condenser fan motor on 110 VAC

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Running a 1/4 hp 220 VAC condenser fan motor on 110 VAC stu 10-08-2006
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Posted by on October 8, 2006, 10:42 am
On 110 VAC it starts easily and runs quietly. Assuming it does the
job, it would be preferable to run it this way.

Should I be concerned about overheating? Fire? Fuse protection?

It is located in the attic and if there is any doubt in using 110 VACI
can easily hook it to 220 VAC.

The fan is not being used for a condenser. I am using the fan for an
attic exhaust with the shaft horizontal.

The bearing will be lubed once a year with WD 20.

This is an interesting experiment.

The fan is blowing the air from the attic of one side of a duplex into
the other side.

The supply air is coming from one side from the soffit vents and
exhausted out the other side.

Hopefully this will cool both attics and cut down the electric bill.
It seems to be doing the job quite nicely.

Advice, comments?


Posted by Noon-Air on October 8, 2006, 11:22 am

> On 110 VAC it starts easily and runs quietly. Assuming it does the
> job, it would be preferable to run it this way.
>
> Should I be concerned about overheating? Fire? Fuse protection?
>
> It is located in the attic and if there is any doubt in using 110 VACI
> can easily hook it to 220 VAC.
>
> The fan is not being used for a condenser. I am using the fan for an
> attic exhaust with the shaft horizontal.
>
> The bearing will be lubed once a year with WD 20.
>
> This is an interesting experiment.
>
> The fan is blowing the air from the attic of one side of a duplex into
> the other side.
>
> The supply air is coming from one side from the soffit vents and
> exhausted out the other side.
>
> Hopefully this will cool both attics and cut down the electric bill.
> It seems to be doing the job quite nicely.
>
> Advice, comments?

You can *DO* what you want, but there is a reason motors are rated for
specific voltages, amps, and RPM.
I don't design them, so I defer to the data plates, as you should probably
do.



Posted by Mo Hoaner on October 8, 2006, 11:38 am

> On 110 VAC it starts easily and runs quietly. Assuming it does the
> job, it would be preferable to run it this way.
>
> Should I be concerned about overheating? Fire? Fuse protection?
>
> It is located in the attic and if there is any doubt in using 110 VACI
> can easily hook it to 220 VAC.
>
> The fan is not being used for a condenser. I am using the fan for an
> attic exhaust with the shaft horizontal.
>
> The bearing will be lubed once a year with WD 20.
>
> This is an interesting experiment.
>
> The fan is blowing the air from the attic of one side of a duplex into
> the other side.
>
> The supply air is coming from one side from the soffit vents and
> exhausted out the other side.
>
> Hopefully this will cool both attics and cut down the electric bill.
> It seems to be doing the job quite nicely.
>
> Advice, comments?

I think his post to the group got delayed because I found a picture of his
house online already....
http://www.islandgazette.net/photo/pictures/images472004/P1010030.jpg


Here's yet another "interesting experiment" for him to try after he rebuilds
the duplex....
http://www.zellersys.com/S1_Rewire/S1%20Wiring%20Project.htm



Posted by DIMwit on October 9, 2006, 6:39 am

> On 110 VAC it starts easily and runs quietly. Assuming it does the
> job, it would be preferable to run it this way.
>
> Should I be concerned about overheating? Fire? Fuse protection?
>
> It is located in the attic and if there is any doubt in using 110 VACI
> can easily hook it to 220 VAC.
>
> The fan is not being used for a condenser. I am using the fan for an
> attic exhaust with the shaft horizontal.
>
> The bearing will be lubed once a year with WD 20.
>
> This is an interesting experiment.
>
> The fan is blowing the air from the attic of one side of a duplex into
> the other side.
>
> The supply air is coming from one side from the soffit vents and
> exhausted out the other side.
>
> Hopefully this will cool both attics and cut down the electric bill.
> It seems to be doing the job quite nicely.
>
> Advice, comments?

a 220v ac motor is designed to operate at 220v not 115 volts. Believe it or
not, operating that motor at 115 will most likely draw too much current and
make the motor overheat. The exhaust air going over it to cool it may help,
but it is dead wrong to run it at 115volts.
The motor will try to run at its normal RPM, a factor of 60Hz and the number
of poles the motor is wound for. Lets say it is a 2 pole motor; at 60 Hz,
even though this is not made to be a synchronous motor, it will try to run
at 3600 RPM.

It will more like run at and be rated at 3450 RPM or so due to normal "slip"
at 230 volt operation. That will draw a certain current at 230 volts with
the load. And, we are not even talking about the same load here.

1)When you try to run it at 115 volts, using the same load, it will try to
achieve the same RPM, and at 115 volts, that RPM will require double the
amps (sound strange, but true). If the windings heat up beyond the
insulation class rating of the motor, it will burn up.

2) AC motors and transformers and other wound devices have inductive
reactance which causes its impedance to the flow of AC current to be much,
much lower than the DC resistance you would measure with an ohmmeter. The
motors are designed to present this impedance to the flow of current at
specific voltages that get the magnetic core at saturation design values.
Operation at 115 volts will most likely not achieve this, and the motor may
appear to be closer to the DC winding resistance value and draw lots of
current converted into heat unless that saturation point is reached, but it
will not be.

Those items 1 and 2 will try to make your motor fail and possible cause a
tragedy in your life. It is not worth the experiment. Buy a unit designed to
do what you need and run on 115v. I can't say it would be OK to run your
setup at 230 volts either. Would your insurance company??

Using WD40 as a lubricant (WD20??) is not an ideal motor lubricant.

I have oversimplified the technical aspects of the motor, but I believe it
to be pretty accurate as far as I went with it. Don't leave it running!
You have been warned by many already.

Bob



Posted by on October 9, 2006, 8:36 am

> > Advice, comments?
>
> a 220v ac motor is designed to operate at 220v not 115 volts. Believe it or
> not, operating that motor at 115 will most likely draw too much current and
> make the motor overheat. The exhaust air going over it to cool it may help,
> but it is dead wrong to run it at 115volts.
> The motor will try to run at its normal RPM, a factor of 60Hz and the number
> of poles the motor is wound for. Lets say it is a 2 pole motor; at 60 Hz,
> even though this is not made to be a synchronous motor, it will try to run
> at 3600 RPM.
>
> It will more like run at and be rated at 3450 RPM or so due to normal "slip"
> at 230 volt operation. That will draw a certain current at 230 volts with
> the load. And, we are not even talking about the same load here.
>
> 1)When you try to run it at 115 volts, using the same load, it will try to
> achieve the same RPM, and at 115 volts, that RPM will require double the
> amps (sound strange, but true). If the windings heat up beyond the
> insulation class rating of the motor, it will burn up.
>
> 2) AC motors and transformers and other wound devices have inductive
> reactance which causes its impedance to the flow of AC current to be much,
> much lower than the DC resistance you would measure with an ohmmeter. The
> motors are designed to present this impedance to the flow of current at
> specific voltages that get the magnetic core at saturation design values.
> Operation at 115 volts will most likely not achieve this, and the motor may
> appear to be closer to the DC winding resistance value and draw lots of
> current converted into heat unless that saturation point is reached, but it
> will not be.
>
> Those items 1 and 2 will try to make your motor fail and possible cause a
> tragedy in your life. It is not worth the experiment. Buy a unit designed to
> do what you need and run on 115v. I can't say it would be OK to run your
> setup at 230 volts either. Would your insurance company??
>
> Using WD40 as a lubricant (WD20??) is not an ideal motor lubricant.
>
> I have oversimplified the technical aspects of the motor, but I believe it
> to be pretty accurate as far as I went with it. Don't leave it running!
> You have been warned by many already.
>
> Bob

Bob,

FYI

http://www.wd40.com/Brands/3in1_product_info.html

Blue can: "It is a special blend of high-grade oils, equivalent to SAE
20. Its formulation is ideal for lubricating moving parts of electrical
motors. "

( I meant to write SAE 20.)


I agree that running a 220 VAC motor with a run capacitor will draw
more current proportionally then halving the voltage.

In a fan situation, the moving air will help.

After running for 9 hours, this motor did not overheat.

However, I will take you advice, and increase the voltage to 220 VAC.

Thanks


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