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Posted by geoman on October 20, 2006, 9:58 am
What brand of equipment are you seeing this on? American Standard doesn't
have the gas valve in the outside supply air chamber, and there are no
breaks in the sheet metal to allow condensation to drip on the valve.
I would say its more of a furnace manufacturers design than Honeywell, I
would suggest for your brand you caulk any place that has a potential drip
point above the valve so it can't drip unto it?
Another issue, separate the exhaust from the intake, it sounds like your
bringing back high concentrations of richly moist exhaust back into the
furnace. The Relative humidity is too low to do what your saying its doing,
that moisture is condensing from the re introduction of exhaust gases back
into the furnace.
That is one reason the pipe within the pipe accessory for termination is so
nice, it helps prevent this problem.
Rich
> On Thu, 19 Oct 2006 17:13:48 GMT, "Bob_Loblaw"
>
>>gofish@gonefishin.net wrote
>>
>>
>>
>>> so what was the problem(s) with either or both? pin connectors?
>>> specific brands of equipment? bad batch of gas valves?
>>
>>
>>In both cases, the valve wasn't sending 110 volts to the ventor motor.
>>Also ,the diagnostic light is steady on, which doesn't match any codes for
>>it. Normal operation is a green "heartbeat".
>>I suspect the causes for this will come to light eventually, but for now,
>>I
>>suspect a faulty internal relay.
>>Diagnosing whether it's the valve or the board is real simple.
>>Unplug the three connectors on the valve, and plug them into a new valve,
>>and just let it hang there, then energize. The ventor should come with a
>>call for heat.
>>Bingo! Bad valve.
>
> If its in a 90%er check for condensation. Cold air comes in top, hits
> the hot burner, condensation occurs and drips on the gas valve.
> Sometimes takes a year but finally shorts out the valve. Causes
> erroneous code errors, erratic or no inducer operation.
> Good ol Honeywell.
> Bubba
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