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Posted by Noon-Air on August 5, 2006, 8:36 am
>I have a big problem with my air conditioning not keeping up in my
>condominium. Outdoor unit is a Tempstar 2.5 ton 12 seer, indoor unit is a
>Goodman GMP075-3. Stat is at 68. If the outdoor temp stays below 75, indoor
>temp stays around 68-72. If the outdoor temp is above 75, the indoor temp
>rises, faster or slower depending on the outside temp. If we get a heat
>wave and it's above 90, the inside temp will rise to 80 and stay there
>until the outside temp falls below 75.
>
> Called the company that replaced the company that installed the systems
> when the condo was built. A tech came and looked out the outdoor unit...
> good pressure, no leaks, working great. They looked at the indoor unit...
> everything looks good. They can't figure it out. The think there may be
> issues with the thermostat, so they start by replacing it. After several
> days, it makes no difference.
>
> The owner then came out. Came to the same conclusions, the indoor and
> outdoor are working good. He said that the original company that installed
> the ductwork made it a bit more complicated than it should be, and
> basically the air has to travel farther. Due to some complaints from other
> residents, the builder asked this new company to come up with a better
> ductwork design. They now do it a lot different than the previous company.
> He says he feels that replacing the air handler (the Goodman GMP075-3 is a
> forced air furnace with a 1/3 HP blower motor) with a higher efficiency
> unit with a DC Drive motor will overcome the ductwork issues. However,
> when checking all the registers, he was very surprised to find good flow
> out of all of them.
>
> He was at a complete loss. He said he wanted to call in a engineering
> team.
>
> Three guys came out, one was the boss. He looked at everything. The
> outdoor unit is in top shape. The air handler has 71 degrees from the
> return air, and 51 degrees from the outgoing air. He says he normally
> expects to see a best case scenario of a 16 degree drop. I'm getting 20,
> which he says is a "pipe dream." He then checked the air flow through the
> unit. It was more than optimal. He checked air flow out of all the
> registers, taking the size of the condo into consideration, it was again
> more than optimal. The temperature out of the registers was about 60
> degrees. He ruled out any open headers in the ducts, as the flow out of
> every register--even the ones farthest from the air handler--was good.
>
> Yet, the day the team took all these readings, it was 70 degrees outside,
> and still 75 degrees inside (it was 93 degrees the previous day and the
> temperature was still slooowly falling inside.)
>
> He checked the insulation in the house. It was perfect. Which didn't
> surprise me... I hardly ever have to turn my heat on in the winter, the
> condo insulates so well.
>
> He spent a good hour scratching his head. He left saying, "this is the
> first time in my 22 years as an engineer that I've seen anything like
> this. You have a system that is above optimal. If it's 90 degrees outside,
> your system should drop your inside temp down to 70 quite quickly with no
> issues. Yet right now, every aspect of the system is working more than
> perfectly, and it's colder outside than it is in your house. It's
> official... I now know nothing about HVAC." He said he is going to have to
> do an intensive case study to figure out what the hell is going on.
>
> About 12 hours after he's gone, it's now 60 degrees outside and still 71
> degrees inside (again the stat is at 68).
>
> Has anyone ever heard of a similar story?
Yup... whenever the home owner tries to get the system to turn the home into
a walk-in freeze box. The *normal* system design temps are to *MAINTAIN* 75
degrees inside in cooling mode and to *MAINTAIN* 72 degrees in heat mode.
Leave your thermostat at 75 and watch the system hold 75 degrees even when
its warm out, and watch your utility bills go way down.
FWIW, I am real surprised that your not freezing your evap coil.
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