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Posted by Abby Normal on September 14, 2007, 7:07 pm
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> > On Sep 14, 5:20 am, nicksans...@ece.villanova.edu wrote:
>
> > > >( x posted to sci.engr.heat-vent-ac for Nick )
>
> > > Thank you Paul...
>
>
> > > >>I think I got too much swamp cooler for my home (in Denver, CO). It's
> > > >>a nice, new pro unit and very efficient. Problem is that even on low
> > > >>power, to get the house down in the 72-73F range, the humidity it's
> > > >>putting into my home is an issue...
>
> > > You might build a box around it with a vent to let indoor air flow through
> > > the pads and back into the house with a 73 F cooler thermostat and use
> > > an exhaust fan with a 50% humidistat.
>
> > > But with an average daily max 88.2 F and an average humidity ratio
> > > wo = 0.0090 pounds of water per pound of dry air (Boulder in July) and
> > > Pi = 0.5e^(17.863-9621/(460+73)) = 0.414 "Hg and wi = 0.62198/(29.921/Pi-1)
> > > = .0087, swamp cooling won't work, since wi is less than wo. You might
> > > air condition instead.
>
> > > Or change the setpoints to 80 F and 55% (the upper right corner of the
ASHRAE
> > > comfort zone), with wi = 0.0120 and evaporate P pounds of water per hour
and
> > > exhaust C cfm for Q Btu/h of net cooling, P = 60C0.075(wi-wo), ie C =
74.07P,
> > > and 1000P = Q + (88.2-80)C = Q + 607P, ie P = 0.0025Q and C = 0.19Q. Q =
24K
> > > Btu/h makes P = 60 lb/h and C = 4528 cfm (wow.)
>
> > > Or turn off the cooler and store coolth in the thermal mass of the house
when
> > > the outdoor temp is greater than 73.5 (the 24-hour average temp), which
makes
> > > P = 0.00068Q and C = 0.05Q, eg P = 16 lb/h and C = 1200 cfm, max.
>
> > > Or forget the cooler and ventilate the house with lots of night air
> > > (with a 58.6 F average daily min) and button it up during the day.
>
> > > Airsealing helps. How about a blower door test?
>
> > > Nick
>
> > The OP should disregard almost everything you said with the exception
> > either 'change the setpoint' or 'get real air conditioning'.
>
> > You keep hinting at applying evaporative cooling to return air, which
> > is inherently flawed.
>
> > With a swamp cooler air sealing does not do much for you. You require
> > pressure relief, there will be zero infiltration when that swamp
> > cooler runs, there will be an abundance of air leaving the building.- Hide
quoted text -
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> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well this sucks. Thanks for those who tried to answer. I'm also glad
> to see that folks like Paul and Zyp find this post humurous...freaking
> a-holes. I just burned $2000 to find out I have a cooling solution
> that is messing up about $5000 worth of guitars. Ha, ha, ha...How the
> F was I supposed to know that a swamp cooler in CO was going to dump
> too much moisture in my house to wreak havoc on my prized
> possessions.
>
> I do not have duct work and therefore no way to really do any other
> type of cooling. Wish I would have know this crap was going to happen
> before installing it. About the only other thing I can do is come up
> with a non-humidifying cooling solution in my garage and store them
> there during the Summer months.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
They are not laughing at your misfortune perosnally Mttmartin, its
just you have lived through a typical Nick Pine cooling scenario. They
are laughing at misguided Nick.
Although Nick himself did not guide you to your situation, his ill
thought of schemes have the same end result.
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