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UPDATE #1 -- Re: A/C problem, need help ASAP

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UPDATE #1 -- Re: A/C problem, need help ASAP Ignoramus2645 08-02-2006
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Posted by ~^Johnny^~ on August 8, 2006, 10:04 pm
On 3 Aug 2006 21:42:23 GMT, dnichols@d-and-d.com (DoN. Nichols) wrote:

>Hmm ... are there substitutes for R-22

http://www.refrigerants.com/MSDS/nri-R290.pdf

--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info

Posted by stevek on August 3, 2006, 1:48 pm
Trace the wire from the T2 contactor to the C terminal of the
compressor. I just can't believe there is not a overload device sized
for the continuous motor current of your AC. If I recall the schematic
shows this as a black wire.
I see you had a different posting on the same subject where your
circuit panel breaker was tripping. I would isolate where the fault to
ground is. It may be the compressor, but you can unplug the C-S-R and
see if the breaker stops tripping. If so, the compressor either has
shorted internally to ground, or the motor winding melted and are
shorting out.
SteveK
Ignoramus1064 wrote:
> > Notice in series with the "C" terminal on the Compressor, there is an
> > overload device. This is a self reseting current limit that most likely
> > is part of the plug that connects to the C, S, and R terminals of the
> > compressor (these stand for Common, Start and Run). Or it is a separate
> > device but in thermal contact with the compressor can. Klicks-on is a
> > Texas Instumentcompany that makes these. The diagram indicates "if
> > used" but I believe it has to be there to protect the compressor motor
> > in the case where it has a locked rotor from differential pressure, and
> > it does not have enough starting torque.
> > Pull the C,S, and R plug, and perform a resistance measurement between
> > C and S and C and R. These should be less then 10 ohm measurements.
>
> Steve, mine does not look like a plug, more like three terminals.
>
> I am not sure if there is an overload.
>
> i
>
> > SteveK
> > Ignoramus2645 wrote:
> >> >> > There ought to be a diagram somewhere, and some markings on the
> >> >> > capacitor, that will tell you what you need to know. Anything else
> >> >> > is just guessing.
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >> Yea. Great idea. Here's the diagram:
> >> >>
> >> >> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/AC-Compressor/diagram.jpg
> >> >>
> >> >> It is actually very straightforward.
> >> >
> >> >         And -- you can see the time delay module under the varnish (or
> >> > whatever) at the bottom right of the diagram -- in series with the
> >> > contactor coil, and an optional switch in which the high pressure side
> >> > of the refrigerant pump can prevent start even if the timer has timed
> >> > out. (But -- that is described as "optional", and the delay timer (as
> >> > much as I can make out under the varnish) is not described as
> >> > "optional", but it *is* described as "accessory" -- so I suspect that
> >> > you have two failures -- the compressor, and the delay timer which
> >> > induced the compressor failure, and which will induce it again if not
> >> > replaced when the compressor is replaced.
> >> >
> >> >         It looks as though there is only one set of contacts in the
> >> > contactor, and the other set of terminals serves simply as a terminal
> >> > strip to carry the other side of the 240 VAC over without switching it.
> >> >
> >> >         This is *not* a good time of the year to have an air conditioner
> >> > fail -- and also not a good time to try to get a licensed professional
> >> > out to work on it.
> >> >
> >> >         You might save one round trip (probably with significant delays)
> >> > if you warn them ahead of time that the compressor is likely dead. If
> >> > you can, dig up the numbers from the compressor case -- or if you can't
> >> > get to that, at least the model number of the overall device.
> >>
> >> I am now convinced that it is true, the compressor unit is dead. These
> >> guys that service my equipment are in my town, a trip should not be
> >> too much for them, and also, after looking at the outside unit, I
> >> think that I want something better.
> >>
> >> i
> >


Posted by Danny G. on August 3, 2006, 5:00 pm
> Trace the wire from the T2 contactor to the C terminal of the
> compressor. I just can't believe there is not a overload device sized
> for the continuous motor current of your AC. If I recall the schematic
> shows this as a black wire.



They are thermallly protected internally for the most part with this type
compressors.
If one goes off on the overload its not going to reset until the compressor
cools down period.



> I see you had a different posting on the same subject where your
> circuit panel breaker was tripping. I would isolate where the fault to
> ground is. It may be the compressor, but you can unplug the C-S-R and
> see if the breaker stops tripping. If so, the compressor either has
> shorted internally to ground, or the motor winding melted and are
> shorting out.
> SteveK



Sounds like a compressor burn-out.(Dead short) But that would have obvious when
checking the compressor terminals (wires removed) resistance.

A compressor locked rotor does not trip circuit breakers right away
if at all. Normally the compressor overload trips first. Or fuses at the
disconnect.
You can find the LRA on the top of the compressor. (3 1/2 ton a/c about 95amps)


GL
Dan



Just for reference:

A 15 or 20 amp breaker can usually take being tripped several times

A 30 - 50 amp breaker can not take the heat when it trips repeatedly.
Yours should be replaced when the problem is corrected. A weak
breaker might not cause problems until hot weather.

A 100 amp circuit breaker would be lucky to trip one time without damage.



Posted by DoN. Nichols on August 3, 2006, 12:00 am
> Some new developments.
>
> 1. The main 24VAC coil contactor is fine, I must have mis-measured
> something.
>
> 2. I understand why there are three terminals on the capacitor. There
> are really two capacitors in one "can". They share a common. One
> capacitor is for fan and another is for the main compressor motor.
>
> 3. If I disconnect one lead to the capacitor (a fat blue lead), then,
> if my wife resets the breaker, the cooling fan starts up just fine and
> I hear humming noise from the motor. I did not let that continue for
> much more than 2 seconds.
>
> My conclusion is that most likely, the capacitor for the main motor is
> shot.

        That -- or the main motor itself.

        Note that any air conditioning compressor *must* be allowed to
rest for a certain number of seconds (sometimes low minutes) before
power is re-applied. There is normally a timer which prevents
re-application of power until this time has elapsed. (The problem being
that the compressor cannot start in the face of the pressure
differential which existed while it was running.)

        I had one such delay timer fail -- but it failed in the "never
try to start" mode, and I was able to swap in a similar unit to put the
system back in service myself.

        Some air conditioner systems, at least, have a solenoid valve to
speed up the bleed-back and shorten the time before it can be restarted.

        I *suspect* that what has happened is that the nearby lightning
strikes zapped the timer module, and re-applied power to the compressor
immediately after it stopped -- a condition under which it *can't*
re-start.

        I have seen (where I used to work) large industrial air
conditioning units without such a delay working blow up and squirt Freon
out the door for about thirty seconds. I believe that a connecting rod
in the pump failed in that case. I was in my car in the parking lot
relaxing during lunch when I saw it happen. Luckily, there were two
other units which survived and kept running, so we were not baked out
of our labs.

        Anyway -- I suspect physical damage to the compressor, rather
than something as simple as a failed capacitor. And from your
description, it sounds as though the motor is cap-start/cap-run. The
motor *might* have developed a short on the capacitor-fed winding during
the attempted too-soon restart.

        I also suspect that both sections of the capacitor are of
similar values, so you could try substituting the other section in for a
quick test.

> Q U E S T I O N S:
>
> 1. Anyone know how to calculate required capacitance by "rated amps"
> of the motor? (I realize that motors are all different, but I need
> some way to guesstimate)
>
> 2. Do the two coexisting caps share a common terminal, or does one of
> them have one contact on top and another being the (grounded) can?

        I don't think that they would have anything connected to the can
at these voltages, so there should be a common terminal.

        Do you have a capacitance meter to try on the capacitor?

> Answers will be appreciated.

        You have some guesses, at least. I'm afraid that you will need
a new compressor unit, and a professional to replace it, unless you have
access to the refrigerant as well as having a charging manifold. (Given
your questions, I suspect that you don't have the license to purchase
the refrigerant. -- Neither do I, which is a real pain given the tight
controls on the selling of Freon these days.)

        Good Luck,
                DoN.

--
        (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Posted by Ignoramus2645 on August 3, 2006, 12:35 am
>> Some new developments.
>>
>> 1. The main 24VAC coil contactor is fine, I must have mis-measured
>> something.
>>
>> 2. I understand why there are three terminals on the capacitor. There
>> are really two capacitors in one "can". They share a common. One
>> capacitor is for fan and another is for the main compressor motor.
>>
>> 3. If I disconnect one lead to the capacitor (a fat blue lead), then,
>> if my wife resets the breaker, the cooling fan starts up just fine and
>> I hear humming noise from the motor. I did not let that continue for
>> much more than 2 seconds.
>>
>> My conclusion is that most likely, the capacitor for the main motor is
>> shot.
>
>         That -- or the main motor itself.
>
>         Note that any air conditioning compressor *must* be allowed to
> rest for a certain number of seconds (sometimes low minutes) before
> power is re-applied. There is normally a timer which prevents
> re-application of power until this time has elapsed. (The problem being
> that the compressor cannot start in the face of the pressure
> differential which existed while it was running.)

Makes sense.

>         I had one such delay timer fail -- but it failed in the "never
> try to start" mode, and I was able to swap in a similar unit to put the
> system back in service myself.

Does not seem to be the case for me (the contactor is energized).

>         Some air conditioner systems, at least, have a solenoid valve to
> speed up the bleed-back and shorten the time before it can be restarted.
>
>         I *suspect* that what has happened is that the nearby lightning
> strikes zapped the timer module, and re-applied power to the compressor
> immediately after it stopped -- a condition under which it *can't*
> re-start.
>
>         I have seen (where I used to work) large industrial air
> conditioning units without such a delay working blow up and squirt Freon
> out the door for about thirty seconds. I believe that a connecting rod
> in the pump failed in that case. I was in my car in the parking lot
> relaxing during lunch when I saw it happen. Luckily, there were two
> other units which survived and kept running, so we were not baked out
> of our labs.
>
>         Anyway -- I suspect physical damage to the compressor, rather
> than something as simple as a failed capacitor. And from your
> description, it sounds as though the motor is cap-start/cap-run. The
> motor *might* have developed a short on the capacitor-fed winding during
> the attempted too-soon restart.

That could be. I did a few more measurements. I will post a summary
soon.

>         I also suspect that both sections of the capacitor are of
> similar values, so you could try substituting the other section in for a
> quick test.
>
>> Q U E S T I O N S:
>>
>> 1. Anyone know how to calculate required capacitance by "rated amps"
>> of the motor? (I realize that motors are all different, but I need
>> some way to guesstimate)
>>
>> 2. Do the two coexisting caps share a common terminal, or does one of
>> them have one contact on top and another being the (grounded) can?
>
>         I don't think that they would have anything connected to the can
> at these voltages, so there should be a common terminal.

That's correct, I saw a diagram (and posted it).

>         Do you have a capacitance meter to try on the capacitor?

Sure.

>> Answers will be appreciated.
>
>         You have some guesses, at least. I'm afraid that you will need
> a new compressor unit, and a professional to replace it, unless you have
> access to the refrigerant as well as having a charging manifold. (Given
> your questions, I suspect that you don't have the license to purchase
> the refrigerant. -- Neither do I, which is a real pain given the tight
> controls on the selling of Freon these days.)

I am afraid that it is the case, as well (see my UPDATE #2 that I am
about to post).

i


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