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Posted by on October 6, 2008, 2:21 pm
On Oct 6, 10:49=A0am, .p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:
> >Do you want it cheap?? or do you want it right??
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 You have to ask ?
Mostly I just want to understand the problems. I seriously doubt that
I will actually try this. At least not in the near future.
I am going to be moving across country and will have lots of more
pressing things to do such as getting my shop up and running. 240
volt outlets for the welders and machine tools etc. But right now I
have too much time to think.
=20
Dan
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Posted by Stormin Mormon on October 7, 2008, 8:45 am
Since we're thinking on this, a bit. The concept is a good idea. Window AC
are designed with a very cold evaporator, they tend to freeze solid, if the
room gets below 65F or so. Not an issue in most cases where I am, cause the
indoor air tends to be over 75F and humid when the AC is running.
A larger evaporator would be needed. Some kind of freeze sensor (thermostat
fastened to the evaporator coil) to cycle the compressor off, as the coil
started to freeze. Maybe some kind of defrost timer, so it could melt off.
Possibly a defrost heater.
A creative AC guy could take the system apart. Use a furnace blower and
A-coil from a whole house AC, and use the A-coil as the evaporator. Move a
lot more outdoor air through the much larger coil. All that dissembly and
rebuilding would cancell much of the advantage of the cheap AC.
As someone else mentioned, the condensate on the evaporator is a concern.
Using window AC for heat won't put out much. Most furnaces near me (New
York) run 60,000 BTU and up. Window AC run 5,000 BTU and up.
For the dehumidifier, some now days come with a freeze protector.
Temperature disk, senses the coil freezing and shuts down the compressor.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Mostly I just want to understand the problems. I seriously doubt that
I will actually try this. At least not in the near future.
I am going to be moving across country and will have lots of more
pressing things to do such as getting my shop up and running. 240
volt outlets for the welders and machine tools etc. But right now I
have too much time to think.
Dan
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Posted by Bubba on October 6, 2008, 1:34 pm
On Mon, 6 Oct 2008 08:51:39 -0700 (PDT), dcaster@krl.org wrote:
>I have a friend who has a cottage that has gas fireplace for heat.
>The cottage was built as a beach house and probably is not well
>insulated. The gas available is propane and propane now costs more
>than resistive electric heating in the Pacific Northwest. And that is
>without considering the efficiency of the gas fireplace. One
>solution for her would be to replace the gas fireplace with a wood or
>pellet stove. And that is probably her best choice, even though it
>would require installing a new chimney ( the gas fireplace is vented
>through the wall and the height is considerably below the roof top).
>But she has decided against that.
>If anyone built a heat pump that was just intended for heating ( that
>is no way to use it for air conditioning ) that would work well.
>There is no great need for air conditioning for a beach house on Puget
>Sound. But I do not know of any.
>So the question is what are the major differences between a window
>heat pump and a window air conditioner? Besides the obvious things as
>the reversing valves.
>Could one buy a used window air conditioner and installing it
>backwards be at all feasible. One would have to short out the
>thermostat in the air conditioner and install a thermostat inside the
>cottage wired to an outlet. And one might have to use a timer so it
>would not run long enough to ice up the evaporator. And it would not
>be useful when it was really cold. But there is a large portion of
>the year where the temperature is about 50 to 55 F. Not comfortable
>without some heat, but not a lot of heat needed.
>Used air conditioners in the PNW are very cheap. In the range of $30
>to $50 for a almost new 5000 btu to 10,000 btu window unit. Almost as
>cheap as an electric resistance heater. So there is no concern about
>having a guarantee.
>
>Dan
Besides the fact that just physical design is going to be a
limitation, how do you propose to handle any defrost cycle and the
water it contains?
Bubba
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Posted by on October 6, 2008, 2:10 pm
> Besides the fact that just physical design is going to be a
> limitation, how do you propose to handle any defrost cycle and the
> water it contains?
> Bubba
Good point.
I used a dehumidifier that was not rated for use in cool areas by
using a timer that would allow it to run for half an hour and then not
run for half an hour. Since it was in a cool area, the basement,
the fact that it cycled every hour did not cause the start winding to
overheat.
The water would need to be directed outside. Would have to look at a
specific air conditioner to see if this is easy to do. It should not
be too difficult to buy some galvanized sheet metal and make a pan. A
few pop rivets to prevent movement and some solder ought to work for
the corners.
I have not owned a heat pump for the last thirty something years, and
had forgotten that they have a defrost cycle. I assume heat pumps
reverse to defrost. For a inexpensive system, I suppose one could
just stop running the compressor and keep the fan blowing air over the
evaporator. That would require a little rewiring so the timer just
stopped the compressor.
=20
Dan
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Posted by Uhh_Clem on October 7, 2008, 5:34 pm
> Besides the fact that just physical design is going to be a
> limitation, how do you propose to handle any defrost cycle and the
> water it contains?
Spray it with gasoline and ignite...
--
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