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Posted by David Jensen on May 2, 2007, 4:34 pm
I am a building contractor and recently had an A/C contractor install a high
end 18.6 SEER Lennox Heat Pump with a dual stage compressor and variable
speed air handler in one of our custom homes. We paid for, and the final
invoice clearly indicates that they were to install a Lennox thermostat with
humidity control. They actually installed a Honeywell TH8320 which does not
have idependent humidty control. I'm trying to figure out what to tell them
to replace the thermostat with.
The Lennox tech support individual told me that he thought that for true
optimal humidty control where it works by running the blower on low to
rapidly dehumidify the home, we would have to use the Lennox 81M28
thermostat and that he didn't think we could use other brands.
My question is this: do you think that that the suport tech was correct that
we have to use a Lennox branded thermostat to work best or to work at all
with the Lennox for humidity control? I'm questioning him since he didn't
sound 100% like he was positive about the advice he was giving me.
If it's true that other brands will work just fine with the Lennox system,
do you have a recommendation for the best/most reliable/most bells and
whistles/whatever brand of thermostat? Since we definitely have to swap out
the thermostat, I figured we might as well ask the question as to which is
the best one to buy for them. The Honeywell units sure look much nicer than
the Lennox thermostats (the Honeywell VisionPro TH8321U1006 has independent
dehumidification control), but I don't want to make a decision based purely
on appearance.
Thanks so much for any guidance you can provide me.
DavidAJ
--
Change the xyz in my email address to MJ for my real email address. Thanks.
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Posted by Noon-Air on May 2, 2007, 4:50 pm
>I am a building contractor and recently had an A/C contractor install a
>high end 18.6 SEER Lennox Heat Pump with a dual stage compressor and
>variable speed air handler in one of our custom homes. We paid for, and
>the final invoice clearly indicates that they were to install a Lennox
>thermostat with humidity control. They actually installed a Honeywell
>TH8320 which does not have idependent humidty control. I'm trying to
>figure out what to tell them to replace the thermostat with.
> The Lennox tech support individual told me that he thought that for true
> optimal humidty control where it works by running the blower on low to
> rapidly dehumidify the home, we would have to use the Lennox 81M28
> thermostat and that he didn't think we could use other brands.
> My question is this: do you think that that the suport tech was correct
> that we have to use a Lennox branded thermostat to work best or to work at
> all with the Lennox for humidity control? I'm questioning him since he
> didn't sound 100% like he was positive about the advice he was giving me.
> If it's true that other brands will work just fine with the Lennox system,
> do you have a recommendation for the best/most reliable/most bells and
> whistles/whatever brand of thermostat? Since we definitely have to swap
> out the thermostat, I figured we might as well ask the question as to
> which is the best one to buy for them. The Honeywell units sure look much
> nicer than the Lennox thermostats (the Honeywell VisionPro TH8321U1006 has
> independent dehumidification control), but I don't want to make a decision
> based purely on appearance.
Use the Honeywell
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Posted by on May 2, 2007, 6:17 pm
On Wed, 02 May 2007 20:34:15 GMT, "David Jensen"
>I am a building contractor and recently had an A/C contractor install a high
My ass you are. You're a liar, is what you are. You're some
guy doing a little 'fix-er-upper' rental on the side.
"David Jensen
Change the xyz in my email address to MJ for my real email address. "
You work for
http://www.mjassociates.net/mja.html
"David Jensen - Principal
David, co-founder of MJ Associates, has been working in hospital
finance for 9 years."
You ask amateur questions about 'how to use Visio to design a homesite
http://tinyurl.com/2lftpx
and at
http://tinyurl.com/2ra9ok
"Greetings. I am remodeling a 50 year old house in warm and humid
central Florida. The house needs additional insulation and I'm
trying to figure out the best thing to do. I feel that I have two
practial choices. I could just blow fiberglass on the floor of the
attic like everyone else does or I could insulate the top chord of
the 2 X 8 rafters with fiberglass batts. "
and at
http://tinyurl.com/32yjv4
"David Jensen View profile
More options Sep 6 2006, 3:44 pm
Newsgroups: alt.building.construction
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 19:44:07 GMT
Local: Wed, Sep 6 2006 3:44 pm
Subject: Brick pavers over torch-down roofing on 2nd story porch
Reply to author | Forward | Print | Individual message | Show original
| Report this message | Find messages by this author
I have a home that I have added a 2nd story porch to. Detailed and
related pictures can be seen at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/19579422@N00/tags/porch/. It is a wooden
porch with 3/4" plywood over 2X8 joists on 16" centers on a 6'+ span
(quite sturdy, in other words). The plywood has been carefully
flashed around the perimeter and than waterproofed with a torch-down
granulated roofing system. I am trying to figure out the best way to
put 1/2" brick pavers over the granulated torch down material. Can I
use thinset and attach the tile directly to the torch down? "
etc
etc
You were in here a while ago, pretending to be a builder, too ( June
of 2006 )
http://tinyurl.com/ytfnae
"I am a builder down here in Florida and I desire to build very energy
efficient homes."
but at the same time -
http://tinyurl.com/2boxwn
"Where is the best place for a new landlord to obtain solid
state-specific rental agreement forms?"
--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
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Posted by Bubba on May 2, 2007, 7:19 pm
On Wed, 02 May 2007 18:17:41 -0400, .p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
wrote:
>On Wed, 02 May 2007 20:34:15 GMT, "David Jensen"
>>I am a building contractor and recently had an A/C contractor install a high
> My ass you are. You're a liar, is what you are. You're some
>guy doing a little 'fix-er-upper' rental on the side.
>"David Jensen
>Change the xyz in my email address to MJ for my real email address. "
>You work for
>http://www.mjassociates.net/mja.html
>"David Jensen - Principal
>David, co-founder of MJ Associates, has been working in hospital
>finance for 9 years."
>You ask amateur questions about 'how to use Visio to design a homesite
>http://tinyurl.com/2lftpx
>and at
>http://tinyurl.com/2ra9ok
>"Greetings. I am remodeling a 50 year old house in warm and humid
>central Florida. The house needs additional insulation and I'm
>trying to figure out the best thing to do. I feel that I have two
>practial choices. I could just blow fiberglass on the floor of the
>attic like everyone else does or I could insulate the top chord of
>the 2 X 8 rafters with fiberglass batts. "
>and at
>http://tinyurl.com/32yjv4
>"David Jensen View profile
> More options Sep 6 2006, 3:44 pm
>Newsgroups: alt.building.construction
>Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 19:44:07 GMT
>Local: Wed, Sep 6 2006 3:44 pm
>Subject: Brick pavers over torch-down roofing on 2nd story porch
>Reply to author | Forward | Print | Individual message | Show original
>| Report this message | Find messages by this author
>I have a home that I have added a 2nd story porch to. Detailed and
>related pictures can be seen at
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/19579422@N00/tags/porch/. It is a wooden
>porch with 3/4" plywood over 2X8 joists on 16" centers on a 6'+ span
>(quite sturdy, in other words). The plywood has been carefully
>flashed around the perimeter and than waterproofed with a torch-down
>granulated roofing system. I am trying to figure out the best way to
>put 1/2" brick pavers over the granulated torch down material. Can I
>use thinset and attach the tile directly to the torch down? "
>etc
>etc
>You were in here a while ago, pretending to be a builder, too ( June
>of 2006 )
>http://tinyurl.com/ytfnae
>"I am a builder down here in Florida and I desire to build very energy
>efficient homes."
>but at the same time -
>http://tinyurl.com/2boxwn
>"Where is the best place for a new landlord to obtain solid
>state-specific rental agreement forms?"
hehehe. I love it when he (Paul) does that. :-)
Bubba
( I had to do a copy/paste to get your tag below to show. When I did a
"reply" (like normal) your tag disappeared?)
--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
|
|
Posted by on May 2, 2007, 7:40 pm
wrote:
>On Wed, 02 May 2007 18:17:41 -0400, .p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
>wrote:
>>On Wed, 02 May 2007 20:34:15 GMT, "David Jensen"
>>>I am a building contractor and recently had an A/C contractor install a high
>> My ass you are. You're a liar, is what you are. You're some
>>guy doing a little 'fix-er-upper' rental on the side.
>>"David Jensen
>>Change the xyz in my email address to MJ for my real email address. "
>>You work for
>>http://www.mjassociates.net/mja.html
>>"David Jensen - Principal
>>David, co-founder of MJ Associates, has been working in hospital
>>finance for 9 years."
>>You ask amateur questions about 'how to use Visio to design a homesite
>>http://tinyurl.com/2lftpx
>>and at
>>http://tinyurl.com/2ra9ok
>>"Greetings. I am remodeling a 50 year old house in warm and humid
>>central Florida. The house needs additional insulation and I'm
>>trying to figure out the best thing to do. I feel that I have two
>>practial choices. I could just blow fiberglass on the floor of the
>>attic like everyone else does or I could insulate the top chord of
>>the 2 X 8 rafters with fiberglass batts. "
>>and at
>>http://tinyurl.com/32yjv4
>>"David Jensen View profile
>> More options Sep 6 2006, 3:44 pm
>>Newsgroups: alt.building.construction
>>Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 19:44:07 GMT
>>Local: Wed, Sep 6 2006 3:44 pm
>>Subject: Brick pavers over torch-down roofing on 2nd story porch
>>Reply to author | Forward | Print | Individual message | Show original
>>| Report this message | Find messages by this author
>>I have a home that I have added a 2nd story porch to. Detailed and
>>related pictures can be seen at
>>http://www.flickr.com/photos/19579422@N00/tags/porch/. It is a wooden
>>porch with 3/4" plywood over 2X8 joists on 16" centers on a 6'+ span
>>(quite sturdy, in other words). The plywood has been carefully
>>flashed around the perimeter and than waterproofed with a torch-down
>>granulated roofing system. I am trying to figure out the best way to
>>put 1/2" brick pavers over the granulated torch down material. Can I
>>use thinset and attach the tile directly to the torch down? "
>>etc
>>etc
>>You were in here a while ago, pretending to be a builder, too ( June
>>of 2006 )
>>http://tinyurl.com/ytfnae
>>"I am a builder down here in Florida and I desire to build very energy
>>efficient homes."
>>but at the same time -
>>http://tinyurl.com/2boxwn
>>"Where is the best place for a new landlord to obtain solid
>>state-specific rental agreement forms?"
>hehehe. I love it when he (Paul) does that. :-)
>Bubba
>( I had to do a copy/paste to get your tag below to show. When I did a
>"reply" (like normal) your tag disappeared?)
>--
>Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
>http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/
>Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
>'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
>'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
>HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
>Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
Yo Bubba......if you want to include tag lines w/o the cut & paste
method, merely use the mouse to highlight all the text before hitting
the Reply button.
see? old dawgs CAN learn new tricks.... :-)
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>high end 18.6 SEER Lennox Heat Pump with a dual stage compressor and
>variable speed air handler in one of our custom homes. We paid for, and
>the final invoice clearly indicates that they were to install a Lennox
>thermostat with humidity control. They actually installed a Honeywell
>TH8320 which does not have idependent humidty control. I'm trying to
>figure out what to tell them to replace the thermostat with.
> The Lennox tech support individual told me that he thought that for true
> optimal humidty control where it works by running the blower on low to
> rapidly dehumidify the home, we would have to use the Lennox 81M28
> thermostat and that he didn't think we could use other brands.
> My question is this: do you think that that the suport tech was correct
> that we have to use a Lennox branded thermostat to work best or to work at
> all with the Lennox for humidity control? I'm questioning him since he
> didn't sound 100% like he was positive about the advice he was giving me.
> If it's true that other brands will work just fine with the Lennox system,
> do you have a recommendation for the best/most reliable/most bells and
> whistles/whatever brand of thermostat? Since we definitely have to swap
> out the thermostat, I figured we might as well ask the question as to
> which is the best one to buy for them. The Honeywell units sure look much
> nicer than the Lennox thermostats (the Honeywell VisionPro TH8321U1006 has
> independent dehumidification control), but I don't want to make a decision
> based purely on appearance.