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Winter condensation problem in HVAC duct system

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Subject Author Date
Winter condensation problem in HVAC duct system Randy \"Brick\" MacKenna 01-28-2008
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Posted by Bobb on January 28, 2008, 4:06 pm
You can never make the system absolutely dry down to 0% humidity. There will
always be some moisture up there. Even if you could get it to 0% and
completely sealed the vents, some moisture would get into the system from
the attic.


>> Maybe I wasn't clear enough. You have a SERIOUS PROBLEM. You are risking
>> the
>> health of your entire family. If you think respiratory problems from dry
>> air
>> are bad, wait until someone develops an allergic reaction to mold. You
>> can't
>> afford NOT to leave that fan on 24/7, at least until all the attic ducts
>> are
>> COMPLETELY dry, and monitored for at least a week.
>>
>> You need to get a contractor to properly install a good quality whole
>> house
>> humidifier in your first floor system.
>>
>> Do NOT seal off the vents, and DO leave the fan ON. You need to do some
>> serious reading about mold. It is absolutely DANGEROUS. Don't be stubborn
>> or
>> stupid or cheap. Don't play games with your family's health. If you
>> already
>> read everything on that other link, and STILL are not convinced, read
>> this:
>>
>> http://www.epa.gov/mold/
>>
>> Did I mention this is SERIOUS.
>>
>>
>>
>> >> You have some serious problems that need immediate attention. You've
>> >> already
>> >> started a "mold experiment". Don't cover any supply or return vents.
>> >> That
>> >> will just compound the problem by keeping moisture in the ducts. The
>> >> mold
>> >> is
>> >> already starting to grow. If you wait until summer, the mold will grow
>> >> faster.
>>
>> >> You don't say what kind of system it is. Your humidifier should only
>> >> run
>> >> when the blower is on. If it doesn't, get the idiot back who installed
>> >> it.
>>
>> >> You need to dry things out quickly and completely. Turn off the
>> >> humidifier
>> >> for the rest of the winter. Turn the thermostat fan switch to on and
>> >> leave
>> >> it there 24/7 for the rest of the winter. Monitor the moisture coming
>> >> out
>> >> the supply registers. Do this before your family develops serious
>> >> health
>> >> problems.
>>
>> >> Read this:
>>
>> >>http://www.energystarhomesamerica.com/mold.html
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> > Hi,
>> >> > This year I'm using a whole-house humidifier on the 2nd floor of
>> >> > our 2-story home. Yesterday I found that there was quite a bit of
>> >> > condensation forming both inside the attic (insulated) ductwork, and
>> >> > on the surface of the ductwork between the duct itself and the
>> >> > insulating layer. I could squeeze the insulation and feel that it
>> >> > was
>> >> > full of water in a couple of spots. I cut out that insulation, and
>> >> > installed fresh insulation and re-taped everything.
>>
>> >> > I've got separate ceiling mounted sends/returns in each room. I
>> >> > plan on covering each with a vapor barrier (7-mil plastic and either
>> >> > tape or magnet strips). Questions:
>>
>> >> > 1. Will the vapor barrier on each send/return do the trick? That
>> >> > is, is this solution good enough to fix the problem?
>>
>> >> > 2. How worried should I be about the remaining damp insulation or
>> >> > the inside of the ducts still being wet? We have another 2 months
>> >> > of
>> >> > winter here, so the system will not be drying out on it's own
>> >> > anytime
>> >> > soon. Do you think it's okay to just wait until summer when the
>> >> > attic
>> >> > will get up to over 110 (F), and it will dry out on its own? Or
>> >> > should I do something sooner? I don't want to start a mold
>> >> > experiment
>> >> > up there.
>>
>> >> > 3. If I need to proactively dry the system out now, what is the
>> >> > best
>> >> > way to do that? I am thinking that I could turn off the whole-house
>> >> > humidifier for a couple of days to get the air inside the house to
>> >> > equalize in humidity to the outside (dry) air -- then just run the
>> >> > HVAC air handler fan for 24 hours to pull inside air through the
>> >> > duct
>> >> > system, hopefully drying it out (?)
>>
>> >> > Any help/insight would be greatly appreciated....thanks....
>>
>> >> > -Randy
>>
>> > OK, thanks for the response. The humidifier is a portable unit that
>> > sits on the floor upstairs -- it's not integrated into the system
>> > (actually, I should not have said "HVAC" -- it is really just an "AC"
>> > system).
>>
>> > No way I can leave the air handler fan on for the entire rest of the
>> > winter. Also, the humidity level in the house during winter drops as
>> > low as 20%, at which point we run into respiratory issues with a
>> > couple of family members.
>>
>> > So, I have to figure out how to dry this system out and have humidity
>> > control. You don't think sealing off the vents, assuming I can get
>> > the system dried out, will be enough?
>>
>> > -Randy
>
> Gotcha, thanks. I will make sure the system is absolutely dried out.
>
> Now, let's dial the clock back to before I turned on the freestanding
> whole-house humidifier. Assuming my ductwork was bone dry at that
> point in time, if I put a good vapor barrier over each of the send/
> return ducts in each of the rooms -- would that have been good enough
> to keep moisture out of the system?
>
> -Randy



Posted by KT on January 28, 2008, 4:14 pm

>
> Now, let's dial the clock back to before I turned on the freestanding
> whole-house humidifier. Assuming my ductwork was bone dry at that
> point in time, if I put a good vapor barrier over each of the send/
> return ducts in each of the rooms -- would that have been good enough
> to keep moisture out of the system?
>
> -Randy

Probably.
If I was trying to solve your problem I might try to fashion some plugs out
of styrofoam that would fit behind the air grilles.

Here's what one manufacturer recommends:
When a Unico System for cooling only is installed in an

unconditioned space and used in conjunction with other

heating systems, such as in-floor heating, baseboard hydronic

or electric ceiling cable or baseboard, and adequate

humidification is being provided then it is imperative that

the winter shut-off plugs be inserted into the Unico System

outlets to prevent condensation inside the duct work.

All return air openings must also be blocked

off.



Posted by KT on January 28, 2008, 4:34 pm

>
>>
>> Now, let's dial the clock back to before I turned on the freestanding
>> whole-house humidifier. Assuming my ductwork was bone dry at that
>> point in time, if I put a good vapor barrier over each of the send/
>> return ducts in each of the rooms -- would that have been good enough
>> to keep moisture out of the system?
>>
>> -Randy
>

Here's some more information from the same manufacturer:

Winter Air Shut-off

For cooling only systems where the air distribution system

is located in an unconditioned space, such as the attic or an

unheated garage or utility room, steps must be taken to

keep moisture from collecting in the duct and plenum system

during the winter months. Winter supply air shut-off

plugs are included in the Installation Kits. They can also be

ordered separately in kits of 20 as UPC-42-20. These plastic

plugs fit into the supply outlet opening. Push them in

until they seat against the ledge inside the mouth of the

supply outlet (see Figure 12).

In addition to the winter shutoff caps, be sure to seal the

return air opening. Use both plastic sheet and tape to seal

the filter in place or wrap the filter with plastic so that no

air enters the return.

BE SURE THE HOMEOWNER UNDERSTANDS

THE WINTER SUPPLY SHUTOFFS

AND THE RETURN AIR SHUTOFF PLATE

ARE TO BE INSTALLED AT THE BEGINNING

OF THE HEATING SEASON AND

MUST BE REMOVED WHEN THE COOLING

SYSTEM IS STARTED IN THE SPRING.



Posted by Randy \"Brick\" MacKenna on January 28, 2008, 4:53 pm
>
>
>
>
> >> Now, let's dial the clock back to before I turned on the freestanding
> >> whole-house humidifier. Assuming my ductwork was bone dry at that
> >> point in time, if I put a good vapor barrier over each of the send/
> >> return ducts in each of the rooms -- would that have been good enough
> >> to keep moisture out of the system?
>
> >> -Randy
>
> Here's some more information from the same manufacturer:
>
> Winter Air Shut-off
>
> For cooling only systems where the air distribution system
>
> is located in an unconditioned space, such as the attic or an
>
> unheated garage or utility room, steps must be taken to
>
> keep moisture from collecting in the duct and plenum system
>
> during the winter months. Winter supply air shut-off
>
> plugs are included in the Installation Kits. They can also be
>
> ordered separately in kits of 20 as UPC-42-20. These plastic
>
> plugs fit into the supply outlet opening. Push them in
>
> until they seat against the ledge inside the mouth of the
>
> supply outlet (see Figure 12).
>
> In addition to the winter shutoff caps, be sure to seal the
>
> return air opening. Use both plastic sheet and tape to seal
>
> the filter in place or wrap the filter with plastic so that no
>
> air enters the return.
>
> BE SURE THE HOMEOWNER UNDERSTANDS
>
> THE WINTER SUPPLY SHUTOFFS
>
> AND THE RETURN AIR SHUTOFF PLATE
>
> ARE TO BE INSTALLED AT THE BEGINNING
>
> OF THE HEATING SEASON AND
>
> MUST BE REMOVED WHEN THE COOLING
>
> SYSTEM IS STARTED IN THE SPRING.

Perfect...this is the type of info I was looking for, thank you. I
realize I can't get the humidity level to zero -- I should have said
"remove extraneous (pooling) moisture/condensation").

So, my game plan is:

1. shut off humidifier for a couple of days, to equalize RH level in
the heated area of the house and the attic
2. run the air handler until the ductwork is free of pooled moisture/
condensation (as long as it takes)
3. seal every send and return with plastic/tape -- good solid vapor
barrier
4. turn humidifier back on.

Thanks,
Randy

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