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homeowner question - return vents?

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homeowner question - return vents? Joe S. 10-29-2007
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Posted by Bubba on October 30, 2007, 7:35 am
wrote:

>Hi Joe
>I am not HVAC person

hehehe. Yet you continue to spew poor advice in a language other than
most can understand.

> but I seen enough installation
>and I can't tell you what will be good for your situation

then why are you here and why does that hole in your head continue to
runnith over?

>however if you house configuration allow you to put return
>air duct some place centrally located in your house you should
>not have any problems many installations are done that way and
>what ever others might tell you otherwise. I will assumed that
>your stairways are open and not enclosed,

oh, so you stole the crystal ball

> also focus that
>60 to 70% of your supply air is going on upper floor.

Interesting. I think Ive been doing this 27 years now. Ive never seen
that 60-70% rule. You've got "thumbs" too, I guess?
Bubba

>Tony
>
>> Short story: I own an old 2 story frame house with basement in North
>> Central WI built before 1930. I am in need of a new furnace and "was"
>> considering a high efficiency unit with central air (house is 24x34
>> ft).
>>
>> Every HVAC contactor who I have received a quote from says that for a
>> high efficiency furnace w/central air that I realistically need return
>> vents in every room. I understand the reason why I need return vents,
>> but I'm not willing to shell out the extra $ to put returns all over
>> the house since I live in a region where central air is not a
>> requirement for comfortable living in the summer time (I have large
>> trees on the South elevation which provide substantial shade to the
>> house in the summer). I currently have an ancient Lenox Aire Flo
>> K5-135M (135k BTU input / 108k BTU output) with the air intake on top
>> of the furnace and a single return opening through the first floor
>> living room.
>>
>> The question is whether it is possible to have a high efficiency
>> furnace without return vents? (the furnace is in the basement). I'm
>> willing to have a lower efficiency unit without central air as a
>> trade-off for not having to spend the extra $ to put returns all over
>> the house. If I go with a lower efficiency unit, what percentage
>> efficiency might it be, and what would be the best make/model for this
>> type of scenario/design?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any advice,
>>
>> Joe

Posted by Tony on October 30, 2007, 12:56 pm

> wrote:
>
>>Hi Joe
>>I am not HVAC person
>
> hehehe. Yet you continue to spew poor advice in a language other than
> most can understand.
>
>> but I seen enough installation
>>and I can't tell you what will be good for your situation
>
> then why are you here and why does that hole in your head continue to
> runnith over?
>
>>however if you house configuration allow you to put return
>>air duct some place centrally located in your house you should
>>not have any problems many installations are done that way and
>>what ever others might tell you otherwise. I will assumed that
>>your stairways are open and not enclosed,
>
> oh, so you stole the crystal ball
>
>> also focus that
>>60 to 70% of your supply air is going on upper floor.
>
> Interesting. I think Ive been doing this 27 years now.

And you are just as stupid and arogant as day you started
Haha ha Tony

Ive never seen
> that 60-70% rule. You've got "thumbs" too, I guess?
> Bubba
>
>>Tony
>>
>>> Short story: I own an old 2 story frame house with basement in North
>>> Central WI built before 1930. I am in need of a new furnace and "was"
>>> considering a high efficiency unit with central air (house is 24x34
>>> ft).
>>>
>>> Every HVAC contactor who I have received a quote from says that for a
>>> high efficiency furnace w/central air that I realistically need return
>>> vents in every room. I understand the reason why I need return vents,
>>> but I'm not willing to shell out the extra $ to put returns all over
>>> the house since I live in a region where central air is not a
>>> requirement for comfortable living in the summer time (I have large
>>> trees on the South elevation which provide substantial shade to the
>>> house in the summer). I currently have an ancient Lenox Aire Flo
>>> K5-135M (135k BTU input / 108k BTU output) with the air intake on top
>>> of the furnace and a single return opening through the first floor
>>> living room.
>>>
>>> The question is whether it is possible to have a high efficiency
>>> furnace without return vents? (the furnace is in the basement). I'm
>>> willing to have a lower efficiency unit without central air as a
>>> trade-off for not having to spend the extra $ to put returns all over
>>> the house. If I go with a lower efficiency unit, what percentage
>>> efficiency might it be, and what would be the best make/model for this
>>> type of scenario/design?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance for any advice,
>>>
>>> Joe


Posted by Zyp on October 29, 2007, 11:17 pm
Joe S. wrote:
> Short story: I own an old 2 story frame house with basement in North
> Central WI built before 1930. I am in need of a new furnace and "was"
> considering a high efficiency unit with central air (house is 24x34
> ft).
>
> Every HVAC contactor who I have received a quote from says that for a
> high efficiency furnace w/central air that I realistically need return
> vents in every room. I understand the reason why I need return vents,
> but I'm not willing to shell out the extra $ to put returns all over
> the house since I live in a region where central air is not a
> requirement for comfortable living in the summer time (I have large
> trees on the South elevation which provide substantial shade to the
> house in the summer). I currently have an ancient Lenox Aire Flo
> K5-135M (135k BTU input / 108k BTU output) with the air intake on top
> of the furnace and a single return opening through the first floor
> living room.
>
> The question is whether it is possible to have a high efficiency
> furnace without return vents? (the furnace is in the basement). I'm
> willing to have a lower efficiency unit without central air as a
> trade-off for not having to spend the extra $ to put returns all over
> the house. If I go with a lower efficiency unit, what percentage
> efficiency might it be, and what would be the best make/model for this
> type of scenario/design?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice,
>
> Joe

Curious. You said 24 x 34? You said 2 story? You know, a single wide is
about those dimensions. I know you said basement...... but does your house
have chrome hubcaps? Is the basement about crawl height?

--
Zyp



Posted by Joe S. on October 30, 2007, 11:00 pm

>Joe S. wrote:
>> Short story: I own an old 2 story frame house with basement in North
>> Central WI built before 1930. I am in need of a new furnace and "was"
>> considering a high efficiency unit with central air (house is 24x34
>> ft).
>>
>> Every HVAC contactor who I have received a quote from says that for a
>> high efficiency furnace w/central air that I realistically need return
>> vents in every room. I understand the reason why I need return vents,
>> but I'm not willing to shell out the extra $ to put returns all over
>> the house since I live in a region where central air is not a
>> requirement for comfortable living in the summer time (I have large
>> trees on the South elevation which provide substantial shade to the
>> house in the summer). I currently have an ancient Lenox Aire Flo
>> K5-135M (135k BTU input / 108k BTU output) with the air intake on top
>> of the furnace and a single return opening through the first floor
>> living room.
>>
>> The question is whether it is possible to have a high efficiency
>> furnace without return vents? (the furnace is in the basement). I'm
>> willing to have a lower efficiency unit without central air as a
>> trade-off for not having to spend the extra $ to put returns all over
>> the house. If I go with a lower efficiency unit, what percentage
>> efficiency might it be, and what would be the best make/model for this
>> type of scenario/design?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any advice,
>>
>> Joe
>
>Curious. You said 24 x 34? You said 2 story? You know, a single wide is
>about those dimensions. I know you said basement...... but does your house
>have chrome hubcaps? Is the basement about crawl height?

I'm not trailer trash. The height of the basement is 96 inches from
the basement floor to the bottom of the first floor (excluding the
2x8's). My intention here was to seek an opinion by anyone who has no
pecuniary interest in the advice rendered. With the exception of
udarrell, most of the folks here seem to be more interested in waving
their dick around to see who can insult civilians with the greatest
intensity. With the exception of just a few persons, this group
appears to be largely a usenet wasteland.

Posted by Noon-Air on October 30, 2007, 11:12 pm


> I'm not trailer trash. The height of the basement is 96 inches from
> the basement floor to the bottom of the first floor (excluding the
> 2x8's). My intention here was to seek an opinion by anyone who has no
> pecuniary interest in the advice rendered. With the exception of
> udarrell, most of the folks here seem to be more interested in waving
> their dick around to see who can insult civilians with the greatest
> intensity. With the exception of just a few persons, this group
> appears to be largely a usenet wasteland.

Look sport, you were told that the new furnace DOES require return air ducts
and vents.... Now, quit being a cheap bastard, and let the contractor do his
job instead of trying to second guess him. you got the information you
wanted.... now go away.




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