i need help understanding what is wrong with my refrigerator

Posted by Stormin Mormon on July 9, 2009, 10:27 am

In many regards, the bigger ones are actually easier to
service.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

In the factory, the charge is fine tuned. The
initial charge may be installed but the tech
will tweak it. Heck, a repair should use the
factory spec as a starting point. Darn finicky
little refrigeration units. I like the big ones
with a sight glass, receiver tank and a TXV
on the evaporator. *snicker*

TDD

Posted by Zyp on July 6, 2009, 7:54 pm

nucleus wrote:

> drier is same size as original. condenser coils are clean (see
> #5). what is "normal" hi pressure for refrigerators? is my
> hi pres too high for my ambient temp?

>> nucleus wrote:

>>> the simple symptom is inadequate cooling.
>>> the details are:
>>> 1. the refrigerator is a 12 year old kenmore top freezer model with
>>> R134a system
>>> 2. just installed a new compressor and drier, my thanks to HVAC tech
>>> for brazing in
>>> 3. i triple evacuated and then charged with 4.0 ounces R134a, which
>>> was amount on sticker inside refrigerator
>>> 4. process stub has service port and new drier has service port, not
>>> piercing valves
>>> 5. ambient air temp over clean condenser coils 87 F
>>> 6. lo pres at process stub 3 psig
>>> 7. hi pres at drier inlet 185 psig
>>> 8. evap inlet temp is 30 F
>>> 9. evap outlet temp is 67 F
>>> 10. compressor outlet feels hot, drier feels hot, compressor suction
>>> feels warm
>>> 11. with evap cover off, only two of ten evap loops are frosting
>>> 12. condenser fan and evap fan are running
>>> 13. defrost timer and defrost heater are off, during the above
>>> readings
>>> 14. no problem with door seals
>>> do i have a plugged line somewhere?

>> Fairly simple:
>> You installed a new filter drier. Is it the same as the one you
>> pulled out? The "Factory" charge includes "Factory components." If
>> your replacement filter drier is 'larger' you'll need to compensate
>> by adding a few more ounces. On the original package for your
>> replacement drier there may have been a chart for how much liquid
>> refrigerant the drier holds. You may need to add more refrigerant.
>> --
>> Zyp- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -

Quite frankly;

it depends if you have a high load or hot pull down on the box. As a
general guide line, you don't want the condenser saturation any higher than
30 deg over ambient. When it's at design, [meaning the fixture temperature
is cold at setting,] it shouldn't be much higher than 15 - 20 deg.

--
Zyp

Posted by Stormin Mormon on July 4, 2009, 10:55 pm

That sure would explain the ref behaving like it's under
charged. After all, the nameplate said only 4 ounces. Not a
lot of room to work with, if it's high or low.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Fairly simple:

You installed a new filter drier. Is it the same as the one
you pulled out?
The "Factory" charge includes "Factory components." If your
replacement
filter drier is 'larger' you'll need to compensate by adding
a few more
ounces. On the original package for your replacement drier
there may have
been a chart for how much liquid refrigerant the drier
holds. You may need
to add more refrigerant.

--
Zyp

Posted by hvacmam on August 2, 2009, 9:40 pm

> the simple symptom is inadequate cooling.
> the details are:
> 1. the refrigerator is a 12 year old kenmore top freezer model with
> R134a system
> 2. just installed a new compressor and drier, my thanks to HVAC tech
> for brazing in
> 3. i triple evacuated and then charged with 4.0 ounces R134a, which
> was amount on sticker inside refrigerator
> 4. process stub has service port and new drier has service port, not
> piercing valves
> 5. ambient air temp over clean condenser coils 87 F
> 6. lo pres at process stub 3 psig
> 7. hi pres at drier inlet 185 psig
> 8. evap inlet temp is 30 F
> 9. evap outlet temp is 67 F
> 10. compressor outlet feels hot, drier feels hot, compressor suction
> feels warm
> 11. with evap cover off, only two of ten evap loops are frosting
> 12. condenser fan and evap fan are running
> 13. defrost timer and defrost heater are off, during the above
> readings
> 14. no problem with door seals
> do i have a plugged line somewhere?

The refrigerator is BROKEN.

Posted by on August 2, 2009, 9:42 pm

wrote:

>> the simple symptom is inadequate cooling.
>> the details are:
>> 1. the refrigerator is a 12 year old kenmore top freezer model with
>> R134a system
>> 2. just installed a new compressor and drier, my thanks to HVAC tech
>> for brazing in
>> 3. i triple evacuated and then charged with 4.0 ounces R134a, which
>> was amount on sticker inside refrigerator
>> 4. process stub has service port and new drier has service port, not
>> piercing valves
>> 5. ambient air temp over clean condenser coils 87 F
>> 6. lo pres at process stub 3 psig
>> 7. hi pres at drier inlet 185 psig
>> 8. evap inlet temp is 30 F
>> 9. evap outlet temp is 67 F
>> 10. compressor outlet feels hot, drier feels hot, compressor suction
>> feels warm
>> 11. with evap cover off, only two of ten evap loops are frosting
>> 12. condenser fan and evap fan are running
>> 13. defrost timer and defrost heater are off, during the above
>> readings
>> 14. no problem with door seals
>> do i have a plugged line somewhere?

> The refrigerator is BROKEN.

Ah !

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