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Posted by Stormin Mormon on October 15, 2006, 6:17 pm
Just get two identical air conditioners. You'll need two because
when you take them apart, you will notice that there's only one motor
for
the evaporator and condenser.
Before you cut any copper lines..... use your
recovery system to recover all the refrigerant from both of them.
You'll
first need to install a temporary recovery port, as you'll find that
there
is none as the units come from the factory.
Next put the unit that you plan on using as the condenser in the
attic. Put
the unit you plan on using as the evaporator / air handler in your
closet.
Make sure that you remove the condenser fan blade from the closet
unit, as you will
find that it's designed to sling the condensate over the condenser
coil as a
means of improving efficiency, and eliminating the need to have the
condensate drip out of it. Or, leave the blade on, as it provides
necessary weight for the motor.
Now design something to collect the condensate. Drill a hole in the
tray at the base of the closet unit. Look for a tube which drains the
water from under the cold coil. Splice into this tube, and put a
condensate pump below the closet AC.
You should pump the condensate to the condenser, and allow the water
to be
slung as per the original design. We presume you have good air
turnover in the attic, as you'll be pumping a bunch of humidity up
there.
Now run the new line set, and hook er up. You'll want an insulated
suction line. If you want really good subcooling, tape the lines
together, and insulate around both of them. 1/4 and 3/8 copper should
work well. You will need to come up with an
oil separator, and a pump system to get the oil back up to the
compressor,
as it will pool in the evaporator. Call the manufacturer of the air
conditioners, and ask their engineers what the recommended charge and
oil
volume is when you convert the system to split operation. They'll need
to
know your line size and length, and what method you are now using for
metering. They might need to know what volume accumulator, oil
separator,
and dryer you used for your redesign.
You may wish to charge by gage pressures, and superheat. Which would
be the best way to go. Charge by weight will be uncertain.
Definitely remove the evaporator fan blade from the AC in the attic.
Fairly light weight, and not needed.
Next is the electrical portion. You will need to control the (now
split)
compressor, and evaporator / condenser fans, along with the oil pump.
A new
digital thermostat, and appropriate contactors ought to do it. You'll
also need a transformer to supply power to the T-stat, and the
contactors.
Pretty simple, and straight forward. Why go out and buy a split system
when
you can spend a bunch of time and convert a couple of window shakers
for
about twice the price? The adventure is what counts.
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Posted by Mo Hoaner on October 15, 2006, 6:54 pm
> Just get two identical air conditioners. You'll need two because......
> Pretty simple, and straight forward. Why go out and buy a split system
> when
> you can spend a bunch of time and convert a couple of window shakers
> for
> about twice the price? The adventure is what counts.
Yeah..... I hadn't thought about the adventure part. Thanks for the
addition. I think we've scared him off.
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Posted by Jim Hauser on October 16, 2006, 1:16 am
> basically i have several computers running in a cabinet in my closet
> and i want to a/c the cab, but i don't want hot air and water dumping
> into the room, nor do i want an ugly floor unit sitting there.
> directly above the cabinet is my attic space, so i want to disassemble
> a window unit, so i can take the cold side and extend the tubing into
> my cabinet, then mount a fan on the coils so it will blow cold air.
> the compressor and condenser will stay in the attic and just dump the
> heat into there where there is already an upward flow of heat from the
> house. i know i'll have to deal with the water, but a 1/2 gal container
> should keep from having to dump the water too often.
> is something like this possible because i know compressors are designed
> to work with a certain length of tubing.
> thanks,
> daniel.
I had a similar problem several years back. My dual graphics card computer
was getting hot even though it was in a very comfortable room (70 degrees.)
Instead of going through all the trouble you are describing, I punched a
(small) hole in the wall behind the computer. Then I ran a some one inch
plastic conduit up through the wall, into the attic and attached it to the
existing AC plenum. The other end I fastend to a vent opening on the
computer case. It was enough to keep the computer running 24/7 for several
years.
The key was getting discharge temperature air (around 52 degrees or so)
directly where it was needed most. You might be able to adapt a similar
solution to your cabinet, perhaps with drier hose or similar.
Cheers!
Jim
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Posted by Stormin Mormon on October 17, 2006, 3:40 pm
Hmm. Sounds like a good way to go. I've not tried this, but it sounds
useful.
--
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
Then I ran a some one inch
plastic conduit up through the wall, into the attic and attached it to
the
existing AC plenum. The other end I fastend to a vent opening on the
computer case. It was enough to keep the computer running 24/7 for
several
years.
The key was getting discharge temperature air (around 52 degrees or
so)
directly where it was needed most. You might be able to adapt a
similar
solution to your cabinet, perhaps with drier hose or similar.
Cheers!
Jim
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> Pretty simple, and straight forward. Why go out and buy a split system
> when
> you can spend a bunch of time and convert a couple of window shakers
> for
> about twice the price? The adventure is what counts.