not sure what's wrong

Posted by KJPRO on May 16, 2008, 4:50 pm

> On Fri, 16 May 2008 00:44:07 -0500, KJPRO wrote:
> Were the nail guns EPA certified?
> Come to think of it they're probably not certified for 410A.

$10,000 fine for each instance!

Just think, you might have the money to be able to fill your gas tank next
week.

Posted by Don Ocean on May 16, 2008, 12:43 am

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

>> I think you're trying to cut a piece of grass with a chain saw.
>> All the guys have brought up good points but there's nothing in your
>> numbers that negates the possibility of a low charge which would take all
>> of five minutes to try. If that doesn't work then go get the chain saw.

>
> Some of us just use a set of guages to remove charge.
>
> But I guess a chain saw would work in a pinch.

But that chain saw has such a satisfying feel to it when checking a unit
that has really ticked you off. Also really good motivation to install a
new unit. ;-p Not good to let the owner watch though. ;-p

>
>

Posted by Stormin Mormon on May 15, 2008, 2:53 pm

We can charge more money for the complicated stuff.

Still, it's as you say. Try the simple stuff, first. Especially when it's
not a paid job (wink wink).

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

I think you're trying to cut a piece of grass with a chain saw.
All the guys have brought up good points but there's nothing in your
numbers that negates the possibility of a low charge which would take all
of five minutes to try. If that doesn't work then go get the chain saw.

Posted by welcome to new jersey on May 17, 2008, 9:55 am

Sorry I did not fallow all that transpired however in regard
to thermal expansion valve position of thermal sensor bulb
it is a standard for sensor to be position on lines 5/8 OD
at 12 clock as line increase in size the bulb will be position
to the side as example 21/8" line will have bulb position around
4-5 clock position, however in air condition work it could be
some place around 3 clock or even higher it depend on velocity
of refrigerant moving through the line. Note if air is moving over
the bulb you should always consider put some insulation over it.
Tony

> Most of my work has been new construction and very little service tech
> so forgive me if this is too simple. My ex-wife called me a few days
> ago and said her heat pump wasn't cooling. She said someone replaced
> the compressor, which made it much better, but it's still not cooling
> like it should. So I thought that unless I want to give her even more
> of my hard earned money, I better load up the truck and head over.
> Here's what I found. It's a 3 ton 10 seer HEIL split system heat pump
> with a TXV. New copeland recip compressor and new dual cap. Coils
> are clean, filter is clean. I put the guages on and that's when I got
> a little confused.
> outside air temp - 81
> inside air temp = 78
> Outdoor humidity: ~70%
> Suc Pressure - 64
> Suc temp - 80
> Liq Pressure - 200
> Liq temp - 87
> Condenser TD - 13
> Evaporator TD - 14
> My handy Trane charging chart shows it being slightly overcharged....
> but shouldn't be enough to give me such a low TD across the evap.
> Rather than just start fiddling with the charge I thought I might want
> to actually try to figure out what's wrong with it.
> The only other thing out of the ordinary is the condenser fan was
> replaced with one that's 75 rpm faster. It calls for a 1075 rpm and
> has a 1150. In my brief experience I believe that won't have a big
> effect.
> any ideas?

Posted by on May 27, 2008, 9:53 pm

wrote:

> Sorry I did not fallow all that transpired however in regard
> to thermal expansion valve position of thermal sensor bulb
> it is a standard for sensor to be position on lines 5/8 OD
> at 12 clock as line increase in size the bulb will be position
> to the side as example 21/8" line will have bulb position around
> 4-5 clock position, however in air condition work it could be
> some place around 3 clock or even higher it depend on velocity
> of refrigerant moving through the line. Note if air is moving over
> the bulb you should always consider put some insulation over it.
> Tony

> > Most of my work has been new construction and very little service tech
> > so forgive me if this is too simple. =A0My ex-wife called me a few days
> > ago and said her heat pump wasn't cooling. =A0She said someone replaced
> > the compressor, which made it much better, but it's still not cooling
> > like it should. =A0So I thought that unless I want to give her even more=

> > of my hard earned money, I better load up the truck and head over.
> > Here's what I found. =A0It's a 3 ton 10 seer HEIL split system heat pump=

> > with a TXV. =A0New copeland recip compressor and new dual cap. =A0Coils
> > are clean, filter is clean. =A0I put the guages on and that's when I got=

> > a little confused.
> > outside air temp - 81
> > inside air temp =3D 78
> > Outdoor humidity: ~70%
> > Suc Pressure - 64
> > Suc temp - 80
> > Liq Pressure - 200
> > Liq temp - 87
> > Condenser TD - 13
> > Evaporator TD - 14
> > My handy Trane charging chart shows it being slightly overcharged....
> > but shouldn't be enough to give me such a low TD across the evap.
> > Rather than just start fiddling with the charge I thought I might want
> > to actually try to figure out what's wrong with it.
> > The only other thing out of the ordinary is the condenser fan was
> > replaced with one that's 75 rpm faster. =A0It calls for a 1075 rpm and
> > has a 1150. =A0In my brief experience I believe that won't have a big
> > effect.
> > any ideas?- Hide quoted text -

> - Show quoted text -

Ok. I didn't get back when i thought I would but I made time over the
long weekend. non-cons was the problem. I evacuated it, put in clean
new R22 and it worked like a champ. The TXV was clean. Thanks for
all your help.

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not sure what's wrong - Page 8