Home Page link

19.5HP Briggs & Stratton - Yardman Mower Engine Problems

Home| Search | About
Login Password
Register Now! Lost Password?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 2 of 4       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
19.5HP Briggs & Stratton - Yardman Mower Engine Problems infiniteMPG 06-15-2007
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Meat Plow on June 15, 2007, 5:54 pm
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 20:41:34 +0000, infiniteMPG wrote:

>> It could go by the make and serial number of the mower but you could
>> take the carb with you also.
>
> They wanted the stamped number off the engine block. I had the model
> of the mower but no help as it's old.
>
>>>Sounds like the engine is dying because it's starving for fuel (unless it
makes black smoke) when the governor pulls the throttle up and that could be a
sign of low fuel level in the bowl (float/needle valve problem) You probably
should call the parts department and ask the exactly what they need to look up a
parts list for that carb.
>
> I would of checked the float out better but didn't have the
> replacement gasket and the float is attached to the top part of the
> carb housing and some of it extends below the gasket so I couldn't
> remove it without scraping off the gasket. The local shop (and I
> trust these guys) is open tomorrow 8-1 so I am running by there. Good
> idea to bring the carb. Two bolts and it's in my hand. My Dad (who I
> got the mower from) just told me that he thinks it's carbon buildup in
> the heads and/or the exhaust system. I kind of doubt that as that
> would cause it to run bad all the time and not just when going under
> load. My hunch is pointing me towards the float as even when it
> starts to die if I spray starter fluid (or dribble some gas) directly
> in the carb it stays running until the fuel is used up. The float is
> not in a seperate "bowl" with a releif spring screw plug in the bottom
> like many small engines, it's in a machined out section of the bottom
> housing and only has one hex plug in the side and no drain in the
> bottom.
>
> Thanks for the advice, I need it :O)
> Scott

No problem. I was just trying to give a general description of a float and
bowl and stuff. Make sure you get a new gasket for where the carb bolts on.

Now I'm headed out to fix the float on my 3850 watt generator powered by
Tecumseh (or however it's spelled) The float is stuck open and fuel pours
out the overflow tube :)





PexSupply Save 50 468x60
Posted by Oren on June 15, 2007, 5:59 pm
wrote:

>I would of checked the float out better but didn't have the
>replacement gasket and the float is attached to the top part of the
>carb housing and some of it extends below the gasket so I couldn't
>remove it without scraping off the gasket. The local shop (and I
>trust these guys) is open tomorrow 8-1 so I am running by there. Good
>idea to bring the carb. Two bolts and it's in my hand. My Dad (who I
>got the mower from) just told me that he thinks it's carbon buildup in
>the heads and/or the exhaust system. I kind of doubt that as that
>would cause it to run bad all the time and not just when going under
>load. My hunch is pointing me towards the float as even when it
>starts to die if I spray starter fluid (or dribble some gas) directly
>in the carb it stays running until the fuel is used up. The float is
>not in a seperate "bowl" with a releif spring screw plug in the bottom
>like many small engines, it's in a machined out section of the bottom
>housing and only has one hex plug in the side and no drain in the
>bottom.
>
>Thanks for the advice, I need it :O)
>Scott

I agree it is not a carbon build-up on the head or piston. Pull the
plug a look at the piston at top dead center, if you think it's
necessary.

The spray makes it run, because it is starving for fuel as mentioned
earlier.

The float and it's operation; would be my focus, for the moment.

--
Oren

"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"

Posted by Oren on June 15, 2007, 5:01 pm
wrote:

>On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:18:31 +0000, infiniteMPG wrote:
>
>>>>Still got carb problems.
>>
>> The carb is pretty simple, the only thing I didn't dig into was the
>> float. When the top cap is removed the gasket is stuck to the bottom
>> of the carb housing. The float mechanism seems mounted to something
>> in the top half and something is under the gasket in the bottom half.
>> So unless I scrap the gasket off and replace it I can't seperate the
>> halves. Does this sound like float issues? Should the entire float
>> mechanism be relaced or could it just be sticking?

If the gasket is seriously stuck - it needs to be replaced! You can
make one with gasket material from the auto store. There may be a
vacuum leak at the gasket.

The float neddle can be worn on the tip (rubber point) and needs to be
checked to ensure the float works, Use a gauge to set the float...

>>
>> Sounds like a trip to the parts shop to get a gasket and a float or a
>> complete rebuild kit. I checked and did not see ANY numbers or
>> identifiers on the carb anywhere. How do you ask for a rebuild kit or
>> float or would there just be one carb available on the 19.5hp 3672CN
>> engine?

Go to the B&S site, locate your model..they may sell the kit. Check
for a local B&S service center.

>>
>> Thanks,
>> Scott
>
>It could go by the make and serial number of the mower but you could
>take the carb with you also. Sounds like the engine is dying because it's
>starving for fuel (unless it makes black smoke) when the governor pulls
>the throttle up and that could be a sign of low fuel level in the bowl
>(float/needle valve problem) You probably should call the parts department
>and ask the exactly what they need to look up a parts list for that carb.
>

Sticky/worn float needle is a great place to look. So far the OP has
not gotten into the float parts, unless I missed it :-(
-
--
Oren

"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"

Posted by infiniteMPG on June 16, 2007, 1:41 pm
Update 6/16.2007 - Pulled a little 'stunt' last evening trying to get
the model off the engine. Was told several places to look and ended
up pulling all the side panels and hood off the mower and the side
covers. When I was about to pull the top cover off I happened to look
and there is a tag on the top of the top cover right in my face.
Sometimes the most obvious is the hardest to notice.... duh!

MODEL - 42E777 / TYPE - 1280 01 / CODE - 9509215A

Ran down to a local mower shop this morning and got a complete carb
rebuild kit for $13. Alos grabbed a new air filter and foam filter
cover. Didn't know what I was doing totally and no instructions so I
set off to do my best.

Pulled everything apart, got the float out, cleaned all the ports,
replaced all the parts I could (one jet housing I couldn't get out and
didn't want to damage so I cleaned as good as I could). Replaced the
float, the springs, gaskets, seals, everything I could. Put
everything back together, mounted it up and hoped for the best.

Sprayed a little starter fluid in and fired her up. Started right up,
settled to idle quick and then I tried engaging the blades to put a
load on the engine and it purred great! Put the filter on, restarted
it and mowed. Nice feeling.

Was running a little s-l-o-w at full throttle so I think I have to
adjust the settings a little but managed to mow a good portion of the
yard before the sun baked my brain. Appears there are a couple
adjustments on the carb, a needle screw under the bowl section of the
float (which I beleive adjusts the mix), a screw on the throttle lever
which I think only adjusts the idle speed, and a screw on the front of
the engine that looks to be part of the throttle cable setting. Any
help to increase the full throttle speed (I may of turned something
when trying to fix it before)?

Thanks again for your assistance,
Scott


Posted by Oren on June 16, 2007, 3:03 pm
wrote:

>Update 6/16.2007 - Pulled a little 'stunt' last evening trying to get
>the model off the engine. Was told several places to look and ended
>up pulling all the side panels and hood off the mower and the side
>covers. When I was about to pull the top cover off I happened to look
>and there is a tag on the top of the top cover right in my face.
>Sometimes the most obvious is the hardest to notice.... duh!
>
>MODEL - 42E777 / TYPE - 1280 01 / CODE - 9509215A
>
>Ran down to a local mower shop this morning and got a complete carb
>rebuild kit for $13. Alos grabbed a new air filter and foam filter
>cover. Didn't know what I was doing totally and no instructions so I
>set off to do my best.

Odd, there were no instructions. My last kit had the instructions and
the float gauge....

>
>Pulled everything apart, got the float out, cleaned all the ports,
>replaced all the parts I could (one jet housing I couldn't get out and
>didn't want to damage so I cleaned as good as I could). Replaced the
>float, the springs, gaskets, seals, everything I could. Put
>everything back together, mounted it up and hoped for the best.
>
>Sprayed a little starter fluid in and fired her up. Started right up,
>settled to idle quick and then I tried engaging the blades to put a
>load on the engine and it purred great! Put the filter on, restarted
>it and mowed. Nice feeling.

It does feel good; especially when extra parts are left in the kit
box! :-)

>
>Was running a little s-l-o-w at full throttle so I think I have to
>adjust the settings a little but managed to mow a good portion of the
>yard before the sun baked my brain. Appears there are a couple
>adjustments on the carb, a needle screw under the bowl section of the
>float (which I beleive adjusts the mix), a screw on the throttle lever
>which I think only adjusts the idle speed, and a screw on the front of
>the engine that looks to be part of the throttle cable setting. Any
>help to increase the full throttle speed (I may of turned something
>when trying to fix it before)?

Just my method, but I increase the RPM on the engine and adjust it by
"ear" At a higher RPM I can "tune" it.

Make small turns 1/8 to 1/4 turns on the screw.



>
>Thanks again for your assistance,
>Scott
--
Oren

..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the
photo..

Page 2 of 4       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
Go-Kart engine problems (Briggs and Stratton) July 7, 2006, 9:45 pm
Re: 12.5 HP Briggs and Stratton Engine on Sanapper Riding Mower May 7, 2006, 9:12 pm
Briggs & Stratton mower engine races and drops like clockwork February 23, 2008, 8:19 pm
MTD riding lawn mower blows smoke out of muffler and air filter. Briggs and Stratton engine. July 12, 2007, 10:01 am
briggs & stratton engine June 13, 2007, 4:23 pm
Briggs & Stratton Engine question. September 21, 2006, 3:07 pm
Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem April 16, 2008, 10:30 pm
WAS: Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem May 2, 2008, 12:37 pm
Re: old briggs and stratton engine model number March 28, 2007, 9:06 am
FINAL WAS: Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem May 20, 2008, 4:45 am

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap