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240 outlet question Bobby Green 07-10-2008
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Posted by Bobby Green on July 10, 2008, 10:16 am
I have a 240VAC twist-lock outlet that was installed to power a
repeater/coupler for X-10 home automation gear. I seem to remember (very
dimly) that it's against the code to spawn multiple 110VAC outlets
downstream from that 240VAC. Since I am out of neutral and ground
connections and have no more knockouts left in the circuit box, it would be
handy to be able to wire in some new 110VAC outlets to the 240VAC one since
the coupler/repeater only uses a few watts.

Does anyone know for sure what the rules are about 110VAC outlets downstream
from a 240VAC one? I know one consideration is that the 240AC outlet be
connected to a ganged breaker so that if there's a problem, both legs of the
circuit will be disconnected if either one trips it. That's how it's set
up right now, so if that's the only constraint I should be good to go . . .

TIA

--
Bobby G.



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Posted by bud-- on July 10, 2008, 10:52 am
Bobby Green wrote:
> I have a 240VAC twist-lock outlet that was installed to power a
> repeater/coupler for X-10 home automation gear. I seem to remember (very
> dimly) that it's against the code to spawn multiple 110VAC outlets
> downstream from that 240VAC. Since I am out of neutral and ground
> connections and have no more knockouts left in the circuit box, it would be
> handy to be able to wire in some new 110VAC outlets to the 240VAC one since
> the coupler/repeater only uses a few watts.
>
> Does anyone know for sure what the rules are about 110VAC outlets downstream
> from a 240VAC one? I know one consideration is that the 240AC outlet be
> connected to a ganged breaker so that if there's a problem, both legs of the
> circuit will be disconnected if either one trips it. That's how it's set
> up right now, so if that's the only constraint I should be good to go . . .
.
I know of no reason you couldn't add 120V outlets if a neutral is
available and the breaker is 15 or 20A.

--
bud--

Posted by Robert Green on July 10, 2008, 10:25 pm
Great, thanks! Everyone seems to agree that 120VAC outlets wired downstream
from a 240VAC with neutral on a ganged breaker is codeworthy. I don't know
why I thought differently.

--
Bobby G.

> Bobby Green wrote:
> > I have a 240VAC twist-lock outlet that was installed to power a
> > repeater/coupler for X-10 home automation gear. I seem to remember
(very
> > dimly) that it's against the code to spawn multiple 110VAC outlets
> > downstream from that 240VAC. Since I am out of neutral and ground
> > connections and have no more knockouts left in the circuit box, it would
be
> > handy to be able to wire in some new 110VAC outlets to the 240VAC one
since
> > the coupler/repeater only uses a few watts.
> >
> > Does anyone know for sure what the rules are about 110VAC outlets
downstream
> > from a 240VAC one? I know one consideration is that the 240AC outlet be
> > connected to a ganged breaker so that if there's a problem, both legs of
the
> > circuit will be disconnected if either one trips it. That's how it's
set
> > up right now, so if that's the only constraint I should be good to go .
. .
> .
> I know of no reason you couldn't add 120V outlets if a neutral is
> available and the breaker is 15 or 20A.
>
> --
> bud--



Posted by RickH on July 10, 2008, 12:44 pm
> I have a 240VAC twist-lock outlet that was installed to power a
> repeater/coupler for X-10 home automation gear. =A0I seem to remember (ve=
ry
> dimly) that it's against the code to spawn multiple 110VAC outlets
> downstream from that 240VAC. =A0Since I am out of neutral and ground
> connections and have no more knockouts left in the circuit box, it would =
be
> handy to be able to wire in some new 110VAC outlets to the 240VAC one sin=
ce
> the coupler/repeater only uses a few watts.
>
> Does anyone know for sure what the rules are about 110VAC outlets downstr=
eam
> from a 240VAC one? =A0I know one consideration is that the 240AC outlet b=
e
> connected to a ganged breaker so that if there's a problem, both legs of =
the
> circuit will be disconnected if either one trips it. =A0 That's how it's =
set
> up right now, so if =A0that's the only constraint I should be good to go =
. . .
>
> TIA
>
> --
> Bobby G.


My garage shop has a 220 branch (with ganged breaker in main house
panel), the first device on that branch is a 220 outlet for my table
saw and band saw, then there are four more 110 outlets for my work
area coming off the 220 outlet (two per side). It passed inspection
here, and I like the fact that overloading any of the 110's shuts down
all of them. If you are worried then just replace the 220 outlet with
a small 4 slot subpanel and move the old 220 and two new 110 branches
off that panel.


Posted by Robert Green on July 10, 2008, 10:23 pm
Thanks for the reply, Rick. It sounds as if it's legal, though, to run the
110VAC outlets out of the oversized metal electrical box I mounted the
240VAC outlet in. That would be the ideal solution, effort and cost-wise,
that is. This is a "nice to have" but not necessary installation. What do
4 slot subpanels cost should I change my mind (or the inspector change it
for me)?

--
Bobby G.

> I have a 240VAC twist-lock outlet that was installed to power a
> repeater/coupler for X-10 home automation gear. I seem to remember (very
> dimly) that it's against the code to spawn multiple 110VAC outlets
> downstream from that 240VAC. Since I am out of neutral and ground
> connections and have no more knockouts left in the circuit box, it would
be
> handy to be able to wire in some new 110VAC outlets to the 240VAC one
since
> the coupler/repeater only uses a few watts.
>
> Does anyone know for sure what the rules are about 110VAC outlets
downstream
> from a 240VAC one? I know one consideration is that the 240AC outlet be
> connected to a ganged breaker so that if there's a problem, both legs of
the
> circuit will be disconnected if either one trips it. That's how it's set
> up right now, so if that's the only constraint I should be good to go . .
.
>
> TIA
>
> --
> Bobby G.


My garage shop has a 220 branch (with ganged breaker in main house
panel), the first device on that branch is a 220 outlet for my table
saw and band saw, then there are four more 110 outlets for my work
area coming off the 220 outlet (two per side). It passed inspection
here, and I like the fact that overloading any of the 110's shuts down
all of them. If you are worried then just replace the 220 outlet with
a small 4 slot subpanel and move the old 220 and two new 110 branches
off that panel.




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