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3 Inch PVC in a Half Wall? shivermetimbers 04-05-2008
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Posted by shivermetimbers on April 5, 2008, 7:21 pm
Hi,
I'm going to build a non-load bearing half wall in the kitchen to create a
peninnsula. The wall will conceal the water and electric for the sink
cabinet.

I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I can run
up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the wall using
2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the plate in half. I'd
prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s, just to keep the wall size
down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe, but nothing was said about the
wall thickness.)

I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then build
the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (Don't want to pull
up the old floor because of asbestos.)

Anyone have any input?
Thanks

Posted by RicodJour on April 5, 2008, 7:37 pm
> Hi,
> I'm going to build a non-load bearing half wall in the kitchen to create a
> peninnsula. The wall will conceal the water and electric for the sink
> cabinet.
>
> I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I can run
> up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the wall using
> 2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the plate in half. I'd
> prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s, just to keep the wall size
> down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe, but nothing was said about the
> wall thickness.)
>
> I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
> existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then build
> the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (Don't want to pull
> up the old floor because of asbestos.)

Why do you need to run a 3" pipe, a sink and a dishwasher doesn't
require more than 2".

Posted by Paul Franklin on April 5, 2008, 8:15 pm
wrote:

>Hi,
>I'm going to build a non-load bearing half wall in the kitchen to create a
>peninnsula. The wall will conceal the water and electric for the sink
>cabinet.
>
>I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I can run
>up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the wall using
>2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the plate in half. I'd
>prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s, just to keep the wall size
>down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe, but nothing was said about the
>wall thickness.)
>
>I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
>existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then build
>the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (Don't want to pull
>up the old floor because of asbestos.)
>
>Anyone have any input?
>Thanks

Only your local inspector can tell you if he'll pass it, but since
it's not a bearing wall, and not supporting a great load, you should
be OK to run the 3". You'll have to put metal nail protector plates
on the sides of the plate where the pipe comes up so you don't nail or
screw through the pipe when you drywall or mount cabinets.

Can you just run the pipe up through the cabinet base instead?

IIWM, I'd do the underlayment first, then build the wall. Less
cutting and fitting.

HTH,

Paul F.

Posted by shivermetimbers on April 5, 2008, 9:58 pm

> wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>>I'm going to build a non-load bearing half wall in the kitchen to
>>create a peninnsula. The wall will conceal the water and electric for
>>the sink cabinet.
>>
>>I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I can
>>run up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the wall
>>using 2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the plate in
>>half. I'd prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s, just to keep
>>the wall size down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe, but nothing
>>was said about the wall thickness.)
>>
>>I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
>>existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then
>>build the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (Don't
>>want to pull up the old floor because of asbestos.)
>>
>>Anyone have any input?
>>Thanks
>
> Only your local inspector can tell you if he'll pass it, but since
> it's not a bearing wall, and not supporting a great load, you should
> be OK to run the 3". You'll have to put metal nail protector plates
> on the sides of the plate where the pipe comes up so you don't nail or
> screw through the pipe when you drywall or mount cabinets.
>
> Can you just run the pipe up through the cabinet base instead?
>
> IIWM, I'd do the underlayment first, then build the wall. Less
> cutting and fitting.
>
> HTH,
>
> Paul F.

I already planned to use the nail plates, but thanks for the heads up. I
thought about running the pipe up through the cabinet, but it's kind of a
PITA to install the cabinet then, and it would be so much "cleaner" to
have everything coming out of the wall. Perhaps I'm worrying too much?


Posted by S. Barker on April 5, 2008, 8:46 pm
why 3" for anything except a toilet?

s


> Hi,
> I'm going to build a non-load bearing half wall in the kitchen to create a
> peninnsula. The wall will conceal the water and electric for the sink
> cabinet.
>
> I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I can run
> up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the wall using
> 2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the plate in half. I'd
> prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s, just to keep the wall size
> down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe, but nothing was said about the
> wall thickness.)
>
> I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
> existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then
> build
> the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (Don't want to pull
> up the old floor because of asbestos.)
>
> Anyone have any input?
> Thanks



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