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3 Inch PVC in a Half Wall? shivermetimbers 04-05-2008
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Posted by Speedy Jim on April 5, 2008, 9:34 pm
S. Barker wrote:
> why 3" for anything except a toilet?

Ah. I think "peninsula" is the clue.
The 3" requirement is to permit air
circulation and trap protection without
having an actual vent to the outside.


>
> s
>
>
>
>>Hi,
>>I'm going to build a non-load bearing half wall in the kitchen to create a
>>peninnsula. The wall will conceal the water and electric for the sink
>>cabinet.
>>
>>I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I can run
>>up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the wall using
>>2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the plate in half. I'd
>>prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s, just to keep the wall size
>>down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe, but nothing was said about the
>>wall thickness.)
>>
>>I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
>>existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then
>>build
>>the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (Don't want to pull
>>up the old floor because of asbestos.)
>>
>>Anyone have any input?
>>Thanks
>
>
>

Posted by shivermetimbers on April 5, 2008, 9:46 pm

> S. Barker wrote:
>> why 3" for anything except a toilet?
>
> Ah. I think "peninsula" is the clue.
> The 3" requirement is to permit air
> circulation and trap protection without
> having an actual vent to the outside.
>
Bingo. Ancient plumbing, completely unvented. It's all 3 and 4 inch.

Posted by RicodJour on April 5, 2008, 10:10 pm
>
> > S. Barker wrote:
> >> why 3" for anything except a toilet?
>
> > Ah. I think "peninsula" is the clue.
> > The 3" requirement is to permit air
> > circulation and trap protection without
> > having an actual vent to the outside.
>
> Bingo. Ancient plumbing, completely unvented. It's all 3 and 4 inch.

I'm not sure you understand the purpose of a vent. In your situation
a 2" pipe with an air admittance valve would work better than what
you're planning and be easier and cheaper to build.

There are two typical methods of venting an island/peninsula - this
article covers both methods:
http://www.rd.com/19540/article19540.html

R

Posted by shivermetimbers on April 5, 2008, 11:34 pm

>>
>> > S. Barker wrote:
>> >> why 3" for anything except a toilet?
>>
>> > Ah. I think "peninsula" is the clue.
>> > The 3" requirement is to permit air
>> > circulation and trap protection without
>> > having an actual vent to the outside.
>>
>> Bingo. Ancient plumbing, completely unvented. It's all 3 and 4
>> inch.
>
> I'm not sure you understand the purpose of a vent. In your situation
> a 2" pipe with an air admittance valve would work better than what
> you're planning and be easier and cheaper to build.
>
> There are two typical methods of venting an island/peninsula - this
> article covers both methods:
> http://www.rd.com/19540/article19540.html
>
> R
>
I found that very article before...thanks. Unfortunately, cheater vents
are not legal in my state.

As for a true vent, I would have to rip up two lathe and plaster walls,
create three floor penetrations, and put a hole in the roof just to vent
the sink. I have no access to the attic, so it would prove difficult to
get the pipe through to the roof in the first place. I would also be
required to re-plumb the entire house to be vented, as adding a vent
would change the plumbing arrangement too much for "grandfathered"
protection.

As it is, I'm merely moving the sink a few feet...much easier and
cheaper! :)


Posted by RicodJour on April 6, 2008, 1:39 am
>
>
>
>
> >> > S. Barker wrote:
> >> >> why 3" for anything except a toilet?
>
> >> > Ah. I think "peninsula" is the clue.
> >> > The 3" requirement is to permit air
> >> > circulation and trap protection without
> >> > having an actual vent to the outside.
>
> >> Bingo. Ancient plumbing, completely unvented. It's all 3 and 4
> >> inch.
>
> > I'm not sure you understand the purpose of a vent. In your situation
> > a 2" pipe with an air admittance valve would work better than what
> > you're planning and be easier and cheaper to build.
>
> > There are two typical methods of venting an island/peninsula - this
> > article covers both methods:
> >http://www.rd.com/19540/article19540.html
>
> > R
>
> I found that very article before...thanks. Unfortunately, cheater vents
> are not legal in my state.

Cheater vent...yep, and I guess that GUI is a cheater interface. ;)

> As for a true vent, I would have to rip up two lathe and plaster walls,
> create three floor penetrations, and put a hole in the roof just to vent
> the sink. I have no access to the attic, so it would prove difficult to
> get the pipe through to the roof in the first place. I would also be
> required to re-plumb the entire house to be vented, as adding a vent
> would change the plumbing arrangement too much for "grandfathered"
> protection.
>
> As it is, I'm merely moving the sink a few feet...much easier and
> cheaper! :)

Maybe I'm not understanding you. You said your existing system is
completely unvented. I got the impression that you weren't going
through the inspection process. Maybe I'm wrong on that, but it's
really odd that an inspector would insist that you conform to some
ancient plumbing method so your house stays 'consistent' instead of
doing what you can to upgrade it. Around here if you start messing
around with the plumbing they'll make you add venting as required. If
it's a lot of work - tough.

R

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