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3 Inch PVC in a Half Wall? shivermetimbers 04-05-2008
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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on April 5, 2008, 9:16 pm

> I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I can run
> up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the wall using
> 2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the plate in half. I'd
> prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s, just to keep the wall size
> down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe, but nothing was said about the
> wall thickness.)

Think of it as two walls meeting where the 3" pipe is. Non-bearing it should
be easy enough to do.

>
> I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
> existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then
> build
> the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (

Any possibility of having to remove the underlayment in the future? If so,
wall first, if no, should not matter.



Posted by shivermetimbers on April 5, 2008, 9:51 pm

>
>> I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I
>> can run up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the
>> wall using 2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the
>> plate in half. I'd prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s,
>> just to keep the wall size down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe,
>> but nothing was said about the wall thickness.)
>
> Think of it as two walls meeting where the 3" pipe is. Non-bearing it
> should be easy enough to do.
That's exactly the line of thought that got me to wondering in the first
place. However, I'm getting cold feet. I should probably stick with a
2x6 wall to "do it right."


>> I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
>> existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then
>> build
>> the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (
>
> Any possibility of having to remove the underlayment in the future?
> If so, wall first, if no, should not matter.
That makes sense; I should have thought of it. I guess I should do the
wall first. Future owners wouldn't appreciate having the underlayment
sandwich if they decided to re-do the floor.




Posted by Boden on April 5, 2008, 11:17 pm
shivermetimbers wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm going to build a non-load bearing half wall in the kitchen to create a
> peninnsula. The wall will conceal the water and electric for the sink
> cabinet.
>
> I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I can run
> up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the wall using
> 2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the plate in half. I'd
> prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s, just to keep the wall size
> down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe, but nothing was said about the
> wall thickness.)
>
> I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
> existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then build
> the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (Don't want to pull
> up the old floor because of asbestos.)
>
> Anyone have any input?
> Thanks
Why not treat it as two half walls with a 3" pipe between them? If it's
non-load bearing the floor plate can be split.

When I have built half walls and I have access to them from the basement
I place all-thread rods spaced at perhaps 2 ft intervals. I recess a
nut and heavy washer into the header and pass the rod down through the
floor plate and into the basement where another washer and nut allow me
to tension the wall. This keeps the wall from loosening with time. I
find that I can tighten up on the nut in the basement several times over
the first couple of years as the wood dries. The top nut that is buried
in the wall should be staked, or have Loktite applied so that it won't
loosen up.

Posted by shivermetimbers on April 5, 2008, 11:42 pm

> shivermetimbers wrote:
>> Hi,
>> I'm going to build a non-load bearing half wall in the kitchen to
>> create a peninnsula. The wall will conceal the water and electric
>> for the sink cabinet.
>>
>> I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I
>> can run up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the
>> wall using 2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the
>> plate in half. I'd prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s,
>> just to keep the wall size down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe,
>> but nothing was said about the wall thickness.)
>>
>> I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
>> existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then
>> build the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (Don't
>> want to pull up the old floor because of asbestos.)
>>
>> Anyone have any input?
>> Thanks
> Why not treat it as two half walls with a 3" pipe between them? If
> it's non-load bearing the floor plate can be split.
>
> When I have built half walls and I have access to them from the
> basement I place all-thread rods spaced at perhaps 2 ft intervals. I
> recess a nut and heavy washer into the header and pass the rod down
> through the floor plate and into the basement where another washer and
> nut allow me to tension the wall. This keeps the wall from loosening
> with time. I find that I can tighten up on the nut in the basement
> several times over the first couple of years as the wood dries. The
> top nut that is buried in the wall should be staked, or have Loktite
> applied so that it won't loosen up.
>
That's an interesting approach. I'll have one end of the wall anchored
to blocking in the adjacent wall, and the other end will go through the
floor to blocking in the joists. It's an L-shaped wall, so it should be
solid. It's also running perpendicular to the joists, so I will be able
to nail the plate to the joists.

Posted by RicodJour on April 6, 2008, 1:42 am
>
>
>
> > shivermetimbers wrote:
> >> Hi,
> >> I'm going to build a non-load bearing half wall in the kitchen to
> >> create a peninnsula. The wall will conceal the water and electric
> >> for the sink cabinet.
>
> >> I'm wondering what the maximum size schedule 40 PVC pipe is that I
> >> can run up through the floor plate of the half-wall. If I frame the
> >> wall using 2x4s, then a 3 inch PVC pipe will practically cut the
> >> plate in half. I'd prefer to avoid building the wall out of 2x6s,
> >> just to keep the wall size down. (I'm required to use a 3 inch pipe,
> >> but nothing was said about the wall thickness.)
>
> >> I'm also going to put down 1/4 inch bc plywood underlayment over an
> >> existing vinyl floor. Should I put the underlayment down first, then
> >> build the wall, or put the wall right on the old flooring. (Don't
> >> want to pull up the old floor because of asbestos.)
>
> >> Anyone have any input?
> >> Thanks
> > Why not treat it as two half walls with a 3" pipe between them? If
> > it's non-load bearing the floor plate can be split.
>
> > When I have built half walls and I have access to them from the
> > basement I place all-thread rods spaced at perhaps 2 ft intervals. I
> > recess a nut and heavy washer into the header and pass the rod down
> > through the floor plate and into the basement where another washer and
> > nut allow me to tension the wall. This keeps the wall from loosening
> > with time. I find that I can tighten up on the nut in the basement
> > several times over the first couple of years as the wood dries. The
> > top nut that is buried in the wall should be staked, or have Loktite
> > applied so that it won't loosen up.
>
> That's an interesting approach. I'll have one end of the wall anchored
> to blocking in the adjacent wall, and the other end will go through the
> floor to blocking in the joists. It's an L-shaped wall, so it should be
> solid. It's also running perpendicular to the joists, so I will be able
> to nail the plate to the joists.

If the knee wall is attached to the cabinets, where's it going?

R

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