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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by Edge on October 9, 2009, 9:53 am
I want to add a utility tub next to the washer in the laundry room.
The room is on the first floor with basement access. The washer is
connected to a utility box that supplies hot/cold water and drain. The
utility tub will use a regular kitchen faucet and will be mounted in
an enclosed cabinet. Of the options available, what is code required
and the easiest to install.
For the new water connections, these are my options:
1. Use Y connectors in the existing utility box and run stainless
hoses to the faucet.
2. Tap into the copper pipes in the stud cavity (2x4 studs) of the
utility box and solder new pipes to the adjoining stud cavity. This
may present problems since the there may not be enough room to allow
the one of the new pipes to get around the PVC drain pipe.
3. Tap into the existing copper pipes in the stud cavity and run it
outside the drywall.
4. Tap into the existing copper pipes in the basement. This is doable
but there are things in the way that makes this choice a lot harder.
For the PVC drain pipe there are similar options:
1. In the stud cavity add a T fitting either above or below the J
trap to the adjoining stud cavity. Again I am not sure there will be
enough room to get around the copper pipe that is in the way. Will
there also be a problem with drain water from the washer being pushed
into the utility tub?
2. Add T fitting and extend it outside of drywall.
3. From the basement add a T fitting that will come underneath to the
adjoining stud cavity.
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Posted by Joe on October 9, 2009, 1:48 pm
> I want to add a utility tub next to the washer in the laundry room.
> The room is on the first floor with basement access. The washer is
> connected to a utility box that supplies hot/cold water and drain. The
> utility tub will use a regular kitchen faucet and will be mounted in
> an enclosed cabinet. Of the options available, what is code required
> and the easiest to install.
> For the new water connections, these are my options:
> 1. =A0Use Y connectors in the existing utility box and run stainless
> hoses to the faucet.
> 2. =A0Tap into the copper pipes in the stud cavity (2x4 studs) of the
> utility box and solder new pipes to the adjoining stud cavity. This
> may present problems since the there may not be enough room to allow
> the one of the new pipes to get around the PVC drain pipe.
> 3. =A0Tap into the existing copper pipes in the stud cavity and run it
> outside the drywall.
> 4. =A0Tap into the existing copper pipes in the basement. This is doable
> but there are things in the way that makes this choice a lot harder.
> For the PVC drain pipe there are similar options:
> 1. =A0In the stud cavity add a T fitting either above or below =A0the J
> trap to the adjoining stud cavity. Again I am not sure there will be
> enough room to get around the copper pipe that is in =A0the way. Will
> there also be a problem with drain water from the washer being pushed
> into the utility tub?
> 2. =A0Add T fitting and extend it outside of drywall.
> 3. =A0From the basement add a T fitting that will come underneath to the
> adjoining stud cavity.
You might be able to do a neater system by scrapping the copper and
putting a manifold in the basement with PEX tubing. That could leave
more room for the drainage system, too. PEX gets around obstacles much
easier than rigid piping. And with proper venting, the washer
discharge should not burp out the tub drain.
Your local building code people should be a good source of info on
what is legal and works, too.
Joe
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Posted by on October 9, 2009, 11:51 pm
wrote:
>I want to add a utility tub next to the washer in the laundry room.
>The room is on the first floor with basement access. The washer is
>connected to a utility box that supplies hot/cold water and drain. The
>utility tub will use a regular kitchen faucet and will be mounted in
>an enclosed cabinet. Of the options available, what is code required
>and the easiest to install.
>For the new water connections, these are my options:
>1. Use Y connectors in the existing utility box and run stainless
>hoses to the faucet.
>2. Tap into the copper pipes in the stud cavity (2x4 studs) of the
>utility box and solder new pipes to the adjoining stud cavity. This
>may present problems since the there may not be enough room to allow
>the one of the new pipes to get around the PVC drain pipe.
>3. Tap into the existing copper pipes in the stud cavity and run it
>outside the drywall.
>4. Tap into the existing copper pipes in the basement. This is doable
>but there are things in the way that makes this choice a lot harder.
>For the PVC drain pipe there are similar options:
>1. In the stud cavity add a T fitting either above or below the J
>trap to the adjoining stud cavity. Again I am not sure there will be
>enough room to get around the copper pipe that is in the way. Will
>there also be a problem with drain water from the washer being pushed
>into the utility tub?
>2. Add T fitting and extend it outside of drywall.
>3. From the basement add a T fitting that will come underneath to the
>adjoining stud cavity.
Don't be shocked if they want you to change the receptacle your
washing machine is plugged into to a GFCI.
It is the code now. (since 2005)
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Posted by Bob Villa on October 10, 2009, 9:30 am
On Oct 9, 10:51=A0pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:
> wrote:
> >I want to add a utility tub next to the washer in the laundry room.
> >The room is on the first floor with basement access. The washer is
> >connected to a utility box that supplies hot/cold water and drain. The
> >utility tub will use a regular kitchen faucet and will be mounted in
> >an enclosed cabinet. Of the options available, what is code required
> >and the easiest to install.
> >For the new water connections, these are my options:
> >1. =A0Use Y connectors in the existing utility box and run stainless
> >hoses to the faucet.
> >2. =A0Tap into the copper pipes in the stud cavity (2x4 studs) of the
> >utility box and solder new pipes to the adjoining stud cavity. This
> >may present problems since the there may not be enough room to allow
> >the one of the new pipes to get around the PVC drain pipe.
> >3. =A0Tap into the existing copper pipes in the stud cavity and run it
> >outside the drywall.
> >4. =A0Tap into the existing copper pipes in the basement. This is doable
> >but there are things in the way that makes this choice a lot harder.
> >For the PVC drain pipe there are similar options:
> >1. =A0In the stud cavity add a T fitting either above or below =A0the J
> >trap to the adjoining stud cavity. Again I am not sure there will be
> >enough room to get around the copper pipe that is in =A0the way. Will
> >there also be a problem with drain water from the washer being pushed
> >into the utility tub?
> >2. =A0Add T fitting and extend it outside of drywall.
> >3. =A0From the basement add a T fitting that will come underneath to the
> >adjoining stud cavity.
> Don't be shocked if they want you to change the receptacle your
> washing machine is plugged into to a GFCI.
> It is the code now. (since 2005)
...and this has...what to do with plumbing?
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Posted by Phisherman on October 10, 2009, 9:21 am
wrote:
>I want to add a utility tub next to the washer in the laundry room.
>The room is on the first floor with basement access. The washer is
>connected to a utility box that supplies hot/cold water and drain. The
>utility tub will use a regular kitchen faucet and will be mounted in
>an enclosed cabinet. Of the options available, what is code required
>and the easiest to install.
>For the new water connections, these are my options:
>1. Use Y connectors in the existing utility box and run stainless
>hoses to the faucet.
>2. Tap into the copper pipes in the stud cavity (2x4 studs) of the
>utility box and solder new pipes to the adjoining stud cavity. This
>may present problems since the there may not be enough room to allow
>the one of the new pipes to get around the PVC drain pipe.
>3. Tap into the existing copper pipes in the stud cavity and run it
>outside the drywall.
>4. Tap into the existing copper pipes in the basement. This is doable
>but there are things in the way that makes this choice a lot harder.
Tap off existing copper lines with copper and terminate with the
required shut off valves for each cold and hot line. Make sure the
hot is positioned on the left. Check for leaks. More expensive (but
faster) use Sharkbite connections, if you don't have good solder
skills.
>For the PVC drain pipe there are similar options:
>1. In the stud cavity add a T fitting either above or below the J
>trap to the adjoining stud cavity. Again I am not sure there will be
>enough room to get around the copper pipe that is in the way. Will
>there also be a problem with drain water from the washer being pushed
>into the utility tub?
>2. Add T fitting and extend it outside of drywall.
>3. From the basement add a T fitting that will come underneath to the
>adjoining stud cavity.
Tap off the stack using 2" PVC. The shorter the distance, the better.
If it is greater than a few feet you may need a revent loop. Your
laundry/utility tub will have its own trap to prevent backflow. Make
sure you have at least a 1/4" drop per foot for all drain lines.
The job will look much more professional if your pipes are located
inside the wall. There should be an accessable cleanout plug on the
stack, if not add one.
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> The room is on the first floor with basement access. The washer is
> connected to a utility box that supplies hot/cold water and drain. The
> utility tub will use a regular kitchen faucet and will be mounted in
> an enclosed cabinet. Of the options available, what is code required
> and the easiest to install.
> For the new water connections, these are my options:
> 1. =A0Use Y connectors in the existing utility box and run stainless
> hoses to the faucet.
> 2. =A0Tap into the copper pipes in the stud cavity (2x4 studs) of the
> utility box and solder new pipes to the adjoining stud cavity. This
> may present problems since the there may not be enough room to allow
> the one of the new pipes to get around the PVC drain pipe.
> 3. =A0Tap into the existing copper pipes in the stud cavity and run it
> outside the drywall.
> 4. =A0Tap into the existing copper pipes in the basement. This is doable
> but there are things in the way that makes this choice a lot harder.
> For the PVC drain pipe there are similar options:
> 1. =A0In the stud cavity add a T fitting either above or below =A0the J
> trap to the adjoining stud cavity. Again I am not sure there will be
> enough room to get around the copper pipe that is in =A0the way. Will
> there also be a problem with drain water from the washer being pushed
> into the utility tub?
> 2. =A0Add T fitting and extend it outside of drywall.
> 3. =A0From the basement add a T fitting that will come underneath to the
> adjoining stud cavity.