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Another GFCI question; sorry!

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Another GFCI question; sorry! terry 05-15-2008
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Posted by Tony Hwang on May 15, 2008, 8:31 pm
bud-- wrote:
> Mikepier wrote:
>
>> Why do you need GFI in the first place? Is it code if you are working
>> on a concrete floor in a garage?
>
>
> 120V, 15 & 20A receptacles in a garage require GFCI protection. The 240V
> one does not (but you may want to use a GFCI breaker for safety). For
> purposes of shock, the concrete floor is a good ground.
>
>
> The code allows 15A outlets on 20A circuits. This is very common with
> 120V receptacles. Not obvious to me that the intent was to include 240V
> outlets, but I don't see any restriction.
>
Hmmm,
Worstr case of shock is death!

Posted by RBM on May 15, 2008, 7:11 am

> Ran a three wire #12 AWG (Black, Red, White plus ground) from 20 amp
> DP breaker to a duplex NEMA 230 volt 15 amp outlet above a garage work
> bench, (concrete floor), then extended 115 volts (Black, White and
> ground) from it to two regular duplex 115 volt 15 amp outlets also
> mounted above bench. Purpose of the 230 is that we have a couple of
> 230 volt tools. Purpose of the 115 v. outlets, regular tools and small
> bench mounted grinder.
>
> Thinking best way to GFCI all those outlets would be to have a GFCI
> breaker, BUT; with either of 115 duplex in use there will be unequal
> currents in the two legs of the GFCI breaker. So it will trip????
>
> Is there such a thing as a standard North American 230 volt GFCI
> outlet? And if so would it also protect any 115 outlets downstream of
> it?
>
> Or GFCI the first outlet following the 230 volt so it protects both of
> the 115 volt ones? The 230 volt outlet then being non GFCI protected.
> Or blank it off?
>
> Same thing could occur with what here is called a 'split outlet' (can
> double the capacity and/or allow two heavier appliances, especially
> kitchens, plugged into both halves of same outlet) whereby the tab
> between upper and lower halves of a duplex 115 volt outlet is removed
> and opposite 115 volt legs wired to each half.
>
> BTW; As a separate topic; while we have several GFCI protected outside
> outlets, if necessary to extend power outside from a non GFCI outlet
> inside the house we used a GFCI duplex outlet that is of a type that
> does not provided downstream protection to other outlets and mounted
> it on end of a substantial extension.
>
> Comments welcome. TIA

On any multiwire circuit, the neutral only takes the imbalance of the two
hot legs. A double pole, three wire GFCI is designed for this and will work
properly for what you're doing. This is essentially the same thing as a GFCI
breaker feeding a hot tub. It protects both 120 and 240 volt circuits in the
spa



Posted by pipedown on May 15, 2008, 1:54 pm

> Ran a three wire #12 AWG (Black, Red, White plus ground) from 20 amp
> DP breaker to a duplex NEMA 230 volt 15 amp outlet above a garage work
> bench, (concrete floor), then extended 115 volts (Black, White and
> ground) from it to two regular duplex 115 volt 15 amp outlets also
> mounted above bench. Purpose of the 230 is that we have a couple of
> 230 volt tools. Purpose of the 115 v. outlets, regular tools and small
> bench mounted grinder.
>
> Thinking best way to GFCI all those outlets would be to have a GFCI
> breaker, BUT; with either of 115 duplex in use there will be unequal
> currents in the two legs of the GFCI breaker. So it will trip????
>
> Is there such a thing as a standard North American 230 volt GFCI
> outlet? And if so would it also protect any 115 outlets downstream of
> it?
>
> Or GFCI the first outlet following the 230 volt so it protects both of
> the 115 volt ones? The 230 volt outlet then being non GFCI protected.
> Or blank it off?
>
> Same thing could occur with what here is called a 'split outlet' (can
> double the capacity and/or allow two heavier appliances, especially
> kitchens, plugged into both halves of same outlet) whereby the tab
> between upper and lower halves of a duplex 115 volt outlet is removed
> and opposite 115 volt legs wired to each half.
>
> BTW; As a separate topic; while we have several GFCI protected outside
> outlets, if necessary to extend power outside from a non GFCI outlet
> inside the house we used a GFCI duplex outlet that is of a type that
> does not provided downstream protection to other outlets and mounted
> it on end of a substantial extension.
>
> Comments welcome. TIA


Simply put, you cannot have a GFCI breaker for a 3 wire cable where two
seperate branches share the same neutral. The GFCI breaker requires
independent wiring of the neutral for each branch circuit.

The only way you can do it is with a GFCI receptacle in the first fixture on
each branch after the neutral is split. You can do a split outlet, you just
need to use two seperate neutrals and break the tabs off both sides of the
receptacles not just the hot side.

I don't really follow your GFCI the 230V first to get both115V logic but I
think a 230V GFCI breaker would cost more than a 3 pack of 120V GFCI
Receptacles. Easiest thing to do is put one in each required location and
not worry about downstream wiring.



Posted by Tom Horne on May 17, 2008, 4:27 pm
pipedown wrote:
>> Ran a three wire #12 AWG (Black, Red, White plus ground) from 20 amp
>> DP breaker to a duplex NEMA 230 volt 15 amp outlet above a garage work
>> bench, (concrete floor), then extended 115 volts (Black, White and
>> ground) from it to two regular duplex 115 volt 15 amp outlets also
>> mounted above bench. Purpose of the 230 is that we have a couple of
>> 230 volt tools. Purpose of the 115 v. outlets, regular tools and small
>> bench mounted grinder.
>>
>> Thinking best way to GFCI all those outlets would be to have a GFCI
>> breaker, BUT; with either of 115 duplex in use there will be unequal
>> currents in the two legs of the GFCI breaker. So it will trip????
>>
>> Is there such a thing as a standard North American 230 volt GFCI
>> outlet? And if so would it also protect any 115 outlets downstream of
>> it?
>>
>> Or GFCI the first outlet following the 230 volt so it protects both of
>> the 115 volt ones? The 230 volt outlet then being non GFCI protected.
>> Or blank it off?
>>
>> Same thing could occur with what here is called a 'split outlet' (can
>> double the capacity and/or allow two heavier appliances, especially
>> kitchens, plugged into both halves of same outlet) whereby the tab
>> between upper and lower halves of a duplex 115 volt outlet is removed
>> and opposite 115 volt legs wired to each half.
>>
>> BTW; As a separate topic; while we have several GFCI protected outside
>> outlets, if necessary to extend power outside from a non GFCI outlet
>> inside the house we used a GFCI duplex outlet that is of a type that
>> does not provided downstream protection to other outlets and mounted
>> it on end of a substantial extension.
>>
>> Comments welcome. TIA
>
>
> Simply put, you cannot have a GFCI breaker for a 3 wire cable where two
> seperate branches share the same neutral. The GFCI breaker requires
> independent wiring of the neutral for each branch circuit.
>
> The only way you can do it is with a GFCI receptacle in the first fixture on
> each branch after the neutral is split. You can do a split outlet, you just
> need to use two seperate neutrals and break the tabs off both sides of the
> receptacles not just the hot side.
>
> I don't really follow your GFCI the 230V first to get both115V logic but I
> think a 230V GFCI breaker would cost more than a 3 pack of 120V GFCI
> Receptacles. Easiest thing to do is put one in each required location and
> not worry about downstream wiring.
>
>

Simply put your wrong. 120/240 GFCI breakers are available and they
work just fine thank you.
--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison

Posted by Chip C on May 15, 2008, 2:31 pm
> Ran a three wire #12 AWG (Black, Red, White plus ground) from 20 amp
> DP breaker to a duplex NEMA 230 volt 15 amp outlet above a garage work
> bench, (concrete floor), then extended 115 volts (Black, White and
> ground) from it to two regular duplex 115 volt 15 amp outlets also
> mounted above bench. Purpose of the 230 is that we have a couple of
> 230 volt tools. Purpose of the 115 v. outlets, regular tools and small
> bench mounted grinder.

Around here, I think it's non-code to split a 115V circuit off a 230
one. No idea if that's true where you are. Your inspector will know.

At any rate, if you want to put a 20A breaker on this, all the wiring
all the way to the end must be 12ga or heavier. You might as well use
20A T-slots for those 115V outlets, but I believe you don't have to
(contrary to popular opinion).

> Thinking best way to GFCI all those outlets would be to have a GFCI
> breaker, BUT; with either of 115 duplex in use there will be unequal
> currents in the two legs of the GFCI breaker. So it will trip????

Yup. Your only option, if you want to put GF protection on the whole
circuit, is a dual-pole GFCI breaker in the panel. Brace yourself,
these aren't cheap.

> Is there such a thing as a standard North American 230 volt GFCI
> outlet? [...]

Don't think so.

> Or GFCI the first outlet following the 230 volt so it protects both of
> the 115 volt ones? The 230 volt outlet then being non GFCI protected.

Yes, that would work, if you and your inspector decide the 230 V
outlet doesn't need GF protection.

[...]

> Same thing could occur with what here is called a 'split outlet' (can
> double the capacity and/or allow two heavier appliances, especially
> kitchens, plugged into both halves of same outlet) whereby the tab
> between upper and lower halves of a duplex 115 volt outlet is removed
> and opposite 115 volt legs wired to each half.

Yes, exactly. Up here, split outlets are still common and legal for
kitchens; only outlets within 1 metre of the sink need to be GF
protected. Those *can* be protected by a dual-pole GFCI in the panel,
but they may also be 20A single-circuit GFCI outlets.

Chip C
Toronto

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