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Posted by SteveB on January 26, 2008, 4:22 am
A neighbor of mine had a fire last night that caused extensive damage to his
house. They may total it.
Seems he came home from a month travel, and built a fire in a wood stove.
Not a good idea because there was time for bird to nest, and for other
reasons.
His is the same as mine, a double walled chimney pipe, about ten inches
diameter of the largest piece.
His ran from floor through a framed opening two stories up, then through the
ceiling, attic, and roof. Distance from ceiling to roof, approximately five
feet.
The stove had two pipes, one for a wood stove on each floor. Upon looking
at the framed vertical rectangular space around the two flues, it seemed
very small, with only about six inches clearance on the sides. At the time
of building, I'm sure it was code compliant. Not absolutely sure yet as to
what caused the flue to get so hot it ignited the framework.
I have a slightly similar situation, but my flue only goes through the roof
a distance of three feet, my pitch being less than his. I have the
sheetmetal standoffs (jacks, I think they're called) that go through the
ceiling and roof.
What else can I do to get up there and make sure that my framing and trusses
and roof are not getting too hot? Is there fireproof or fire retardant
sheeting that I can box in with as far out from the vertical flues as I can?
Is there special insulation wrap for the flues?
I'm going to go to a fireplace shop and ask for a pro to come look at it,
but wanted to get some slight idea of what is involved.
My insurance doubled this year upon installation of a wood burner, even
though all the measurements are within the limits set by stove manufacturer
and safety codes. I'd just like to give it a little extra margin of safety.
Thanks in advance.
Steve
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Posted by buffalobill on January 26, 2008, 7:48 am
> A neighbor of mine had a fire last night that caused extensive damage to his
> house. They may total it.
>
> Seems he came home from a month travel, and built a fire in a wood stove.
> Not a good idea because there was time for bird to nest, and for other
> reasons.
>
> His is the same as mine, a double walled chimney pipe, about ten inches
> diameter of the largest piece.
>
> His ran from floor through a framed opening two stories up, then through the
> ceiling, attic, and roof. Distance from ceiling to roof, approximately five
> feet.
>
> The stove had two pipes, one for a wood stove on each floor. Upon looking
> at the framed vertical rectangular space around the two flues, it seemed
> very small, with only about six inches clearance on the sides. At the time
> of building, I'm sure it was code compliant. Not absolutely sure yet as to
> what caused the flue to get so hot it ignited the framework.
>
> I have a slightly similar situation, but my flue only goes through the roof
> a distance of three feet, my pitch being less than his. I have the
> sheetmetal standoffs (jacks, I think they're called) that go through the
> ceiling and roof.
>
> What else can I do to get up there and make sure that my framing and trusses
> and roof are not getting too hot? Is there fireproof or fire retardant
> sheeting that I can box in with as far out from the vertical flues as I can?
> Is there special insulation wrap for the flues?
>
> I'm going to go to a fireplace shop and ask for a pro to come look at it,
> but wanted to get some slight idea of what is involved.
>
> My insurance doubled this year upon installation of a wood burner, even
> though all the measurements are within the limits set by stove manufacturer
> and safety codes. I'd just like to give it a little extra margin of safety.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve
buffalo ny: creosote buildup was blamed in our aunt mary's brick
chimney caught fire thirty years ago and the innocent enough trigger
seemed to be christmas present wrappings tossed on an already going
wood fireplace fire. in eden ny this was the third chimney fire for
the volunteer fire department that week. the usual family gathering
was surprised by the arrival of the fire department, great neighbors
called it in, and there was plenty of excitement but without any major
loss. thank god, i guess you clean those things each year? call a
pro.
-b
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Posted by Pete C. on January 26, 2008, 8:02 am
SteveB wrote:
>
> A neighbor of mine had a fire last night that caused extensive damage to his
> house. They may total it.
>
> Seems he came home from a month travel, and built a fire in a wood stove.
> Not a good idea because there was time for bird to nest, and for other
> reasons.
>
> His is the same as mine, a double walled chimney pipe, about ten inches
> diameter of the largest piece.
>
> His ran from floor through a framed opening two stories up, then through the
> ceiling, attic, and roof. Distance from ceiling to roof, approximately five
> feet.
>
> The stove had two pipes, one for a wood stove on each floor. Upon looking
> at the framed vertical rectangular space around the two flues, it seemed
> very small, with only about six inches clearance on the sides. At the time
> of building, I'm sure it was code compliant. Not absolutely sure yet as to
> what caused the flue to get so hot it ignited the framework.
>
> I have a slightly similar situation, but my flue only goes through the roof
> a distance of three feet, my pitch being less than his. I have the
> sheetmetal standoffs (jacks, I think they're called) that go through the
> ceiling and roof.
>
> What else can I do to get up there and make sure that my framing and trusses
> and roof are not getting too hot? Is there fireproof or fire retardant
> sheeting that I can box in with as far out from the vertical flues as I can?
> Is there special insulation wrap for the flues?
>
> I'm going to go to a fireplace shop and ask for a pro to come look at it,
> but wanted to get some slight idea of what is involved.
>
> My insurance doubled this year upon installation of a wood burner, even
> though all the measurements are within the limits set by stove manufacturer
> and safety codes. I'd just like to give it a little extra margin of safety.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve
One of the most critical things is having the correct chimney pipe, and
there are two basic types.
There is an air insulated double wall pipe that is used for gas
fireplaces and the like, just two galvanized steel pipes with air
between them which is normally vented at the ends to allow convection
cooling.
The chimney pipe used for a wood burning fireplace / stove is made of
stainless steel (at least the inner pipe is), and has an insulating
material between the pipes, not just air. Wood burners produce more
corrosive content in their exhaust, hence the SS, and significantly
higher temperatures.
Covering all surfaces close to the chimney pipe and stove with 5/8" type
X "fire code" sheetrock is one easy upgrade, though not always
cosmetically appealing. Placing another fire and heat resistant material
over the sheetrock, such as stainless sheet or tile can improve the
aesthetics.
Residential fire sprinkler systems are available as well, and in some
cases can be quite simple and inexpensive, i.e. a wet system with a
couple thermal sprinkler heads directly connected to the house city
water supply is very inexpensive compared to a commercial grade dry
system.
Asking your insurance company what upgrades would be acceptable to them
to lower your rates would certainly be appropriate, as would quoting
from other companies since they aren't all the same.
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Posted by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=22Blattus_Slaf on January 26, 2008, 9:28 am
SteveB wrote:
> A neighbor of mine had a fire last night that caused extensive damage to his
> house. They may total it.
>
> Seems he came home from a month travel, and built a fire in a wood stove.
> Not a good idea because there was time for bird to nest, and for other
> reasons.
>
> His is the same as mine, a double walled chimney pipe, about ten inches
> diameter of the largest piece.
>
> His ran from floor through a framed opening two stories up, then through the
> ceiling, attic, and roof. Distance from ceiling to roof, approximately five
> feet.
>
> The stove had two pipes, one for a wood stove on each floor. Upon looking
> at the framed vertical rectangular space around the two flues, it seemed
> very small, with only about six inches clearance on the sides. At the time
> of building, I'm sure it was code compliant. Not absolutely sure yet as to
> what caused the flue to get so hot it ignited the framework.
>
> I have a slightly similar situation, but my flue only goes through the roof
> a distance of three feet, my pitch being less than his. I have the
> sheetmetal standoffs (jacks, I think they're called) that go through the
> ceiling and roof.
>
> What else can I do to get up there and make sure that my framing and trusses
> and roof are not getting too hot? Is there fireproof or fire retardant
> sheeting that I can box in with as far out from the vertical flues as I can?
> Is there special insulation wrap for the flues?
>
> I'm going to go to a fireplace shop and ask for a pro to come look at it,
> but wanted to get some slight idea of what is involved.
>
> My insurance doubled this year upon installation of a wood burner, even
> though all the measurements are within the limits set by stove manufacturer
> and safety codes. I'd just like to give it a little extra margin of safety.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve
>
>
Keep your chimney clean, don't burn green wood. Let the fire roar when
you light it to keep the lower end clean. You should also have a stove
with an automatic draft control. The variations in atmospheric pressure,
wind and humidity with changing weather change the draft
characteristics. To maintain the same temperature fire some days you
need the draft partly open other days it burns hot with it closed. If
you go somewhere and leave the draft open you asking for trouble. The
air could change the the stove turn into a smelter and burn your house
down. Close it up before you leave it it's not automatic. Some
insurances won't cover you if you get a wood stove. In my state they
made it illegal to have a wood stove in the garage (Like anybody follows
that law) because of the proximity to the car gas tanks and gas cans for
lawn mowers and snowblowers. Some people just can't think properly and
human error is always the cause of fire and death. Insurance companies
first order of business is 'cut the losses'.
--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 :) 7/8
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Posted by Kevin Ricks on January 26, 2008, 12:53 pm
SteveB wrote:
> A neighbor of mine had a fire last night that caused extensive damage to his
> house. They may total it.
>
> Seems he came home from a month travel, and built a fire in a wood stove.
> Not a good idea because there was time for bird to nest, and for other
> reasons.
>
> His is the same as mine, a double walled chimney pipe, about ten inches
> diameter of the largest piece.
>
> His ran from floor through a framed opening two stories up, then through the
> ceiling, attic, and roof. Distance from ceiling to roof, approximately five
> feet.
>
> The stove had two pipes, one for a wood stove on each floor. Upon looking
> at the framed vertical rectangular space around the two flues, it seemed
> very small, with only about six inches clearance on the sides. At the time
> of building, I'm sure it was code compliant. Not absolutely sure yet as to
> what caused the flue to get so hot it ignited the framework.
>
> I have a slightly similar situation, but my flue only goes through the roof
> a distance of three feet, my pitch being less than his. I have the
> sheetmetal standoffs (jacks, I think they're called) that go through the
> ceiling and roof.
>
> What else can I do to get up there and make sure that my framing and trusses
> and roof are not getting too hot? Is there fireproof or fire retardant
> sheeting that I can box in with as far out from the vertical flues as I can?
> Is there special insulation wrap for the flues?
>
> I'm going to go to a fireplace shop and ask for a pro to come look at it,
> but wanted to get some slight idea of what is involved.
>
> My insurance doubled this year upon installation of a wood burner, even
> though all the measurements are within the limits set by stove manufacturer
> and safety codes. I'd just like to give it a little extra margin of safety.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve
>
A properly built and maintained chimney/flue does not just get too hot
and one day start a fire. However a chimney fire will do that. At over
2000 deg. F it will severely damage and even melt metal flue pipes.
Heat can burn through or transfer enough heat through a brick and morter
chimney to start a fire in surrounding structure. The key is to prevent
chimney fires from happening in the first place by having the chimney
inspected and cleaned.
Google [chimney fire]. Here is one with photos:
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infchimneyfire/infchimneyfire.html
Kevin
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