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Posted by TomC on January 26, 2009, 10:06 am
I want to trim out about 80' block wall with baseboard at the top where it
meets a drywall ceiling. What's the best/easy way to do it without
cracking/splitting out the block? TIA
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Posted by TomC on January 26, 2009, 3:09 pm
show/hide quoted text
>
> No, it won't initially w/o some help.
>
> Easiest solution is to use a backer board mounted w/ powder-actuated
> nails and put the finish board over it. That, of course, adds an
> extra layer you might not want.
>
> Having one, I'd at least try to shoot a few powder-actuated nails w/
> low loads--it should be ok w/ filling for painting.
>
> Lacking that, I'd use the cut nail in a joint if the masonry is good;
> often it will hold w/o crumbling. A short masonry or cut nail in the
> block may also be doable depending on the actual block; some are much
> harder than others.
>
> After that you're to one of the drilling/anchor solutions; take your
> pick of poison there... :)
>
> --
I'm leaning toward adhesive with a couple of cut nails in the mortar to
anchor it while the adhesive drys. I wonder if roofing cement or a
flooring cement would work better; e.g. hold the baseboard without it
slipping down the wall?
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Posted by TomC on January 26, 2009, 3:12 pm
show/hide quoted text
>
> No, it won't initially w/o some help.
>
> Easiest solution is to use a backer board mounted w/ powder-actuated
> nails and put the finish board over it. That, of course, adds an
> extra layer you might not want.
>
> Having one, I'd at least try to shoot a few powder-actuated nails w/
> low loads--it should be ok w/ filling for painting.
>
> Lacking that, I'd use the cut nail in a joint if the masonry is good;
> often it will hold w/o crumbling. A short masonry or cut nail in the
> block may also be doable depending on the actual block; some are much
> harder than others.
>
> After that you're to one of the drilling/anchor solutions; take your
> pick of poison there... :)
>
> --
I'm leaning toward adhesive with a couple of cut nails in the mortar to
anchor it while the adhesive drys. I wonder if roofing cement or a
flooring cement would work better; e.g. hold the baseboard without it
slipping down the wall?
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Posted by HeyBub on January 26, 2009, 4:31 pm
TomC wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>> No, it won't initially w/o some help.
>> Easiest solution is to use a backer board mounted w/ powder-actuated
>> nails and put the finish board over it. That, of course, adds an
>> extra layer you might not want.
>> Having one, I'd at least try to shoot a few powder-actuated nails w/
>> low loads--it should be ok w/ filling for painting.
>> Lacking that, I'd use the cut nail in a joint if the masonry is good;
>> often it will hold w/o crumbling. A short masonry or cut nail in the
>> block may also be doable depending on the actual block; some are much
>> harder than others.
>> After that you're to one of the drilling/anchor solutions; take your
>> pick of poison there... :)
>> --
> I'm leaning toward adhesive with a couple of cut nails in the mortar
> to anchor it while the adhesive drys. I wonder if roofing cement or a
> flooring cement would work better; e.g. hold the baseboard without it
> slipping down the wall?
If duct tape is out of the question, think combination Liquid Nails and
contact cement.
I just tried a can of "3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive." That stuff will
glue an ice-cube to an after-taco belch.
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Posted by RicodJour on January 27, 2009, 10:58 am
Jim Elbrecht wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I'd trust liquid nails and just brace it overnight. I couldn't
> begin to guess *how* I'd brace it without sitting there staring at it
> with a cold/hot beverage for a spell.
A few 1x3 springboards would do the trick. Just cut the 1x3s an inch
long and wedge them into place under the molding at suitable
intervals. That'll hold it while the adhesive sets.
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> No, it won't initially w/o some help.
>
> Easiest solution is to use a backer board mounted w/ powder-actuated
> nails and put the finish board over it. That, of course, adds an
> extra layer you might not want.
>
> Having one, I'd at least try to shoot a few powder-actuated nails w/
> low loads--it should be ok w/ filling for painting.
>
> Lacking that, I'd use the cut nail in a joint if the masonry is good;
> often it will hold w/o crumbling. A short masonry or cut nail in the
> block may also be doable depending on the actual block; some are much
> harder than others.
>
> After that you're to one of the drilling/anchor solutions; take your
> pick of poison there... :)
>
> --