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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by Big Al on November 25, 2006, 6:11 pm
Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs
from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of
tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it
together.
Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some
12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not
very good quality.
Thanks,
Al
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Posted by dpb on November 25, 2006, 6:23 pm
Big Al wrote:
> Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs
> from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of
> tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it
> together.
>
> Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some
> 12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not
> very good quality.
Actually, if it's a real barn and even reasonably old, that's what I'd
suggest. If you'd like, e-mail and I'll send some pictures of the
restored/rebuilt doors for the barn here. They're 3-1/2" T&G w/ 6/4
framing and a crossbuck (both surface mount on the front side). The
originals (and the one new one I've built) have a 45-deg chamfer on the
mid-sections of these that really dresses them up. They're heavy, but
a great look for a barn.
You shouldn't have any real trouble finding good T&G from a real lumber
yard.
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Posted by on November 25, 2006, 7:41 pm
Big Al wrote:
> Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that hangs
> from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made of
> tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it
> together.
>
> Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find some
> 12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's not
> very good quality.
>
> Thanks,
> Al
If the door is more to keep the rain out than provide security I would
weld up a steel frame out of square tube and cover it with a
lightweight roofing metal.
It makes a fairly substantial door and keeps the weight down a bit .
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Posted by Big Al on November 26, 2006, 2:04 am
>
> Big Al wrote:
> > Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that
hangs
> > from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made
of
> > tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it
> > together.
> >
> > Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find
some
> > 12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's
not
> > very good quality.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Al
>
> If the door is more to keep the rain out than provide security I would
> weld up a steel frame out of square tube and cover it with a
> lightweight roofing metal.
>
> It makes a fairly substantial door and keeps the weight down a bit .
>
Thought of making a frame out of steel tubing. Just don't think I can keep
it square and straight.
Al
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Posted by on November 26, 2006, 3:40 am
>
>>
>> Big Al wrote:
>> > Need to replace an 11'3" wide 9' tall barn door. It's the type that
>hangs
>> > from the top on a track with two rollers. The door that's there is made
>of
>> > tongue and groove siding with some horizontal 5/4" lumber to keep it
>> > together.
>> >
>> > Could really use some ideas for a new door. Was going to try to find
>some
>> > 12' sheet siding but I can't. I did find new tongue and groove, but it's
>not
>> > very good quality.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > Al
>>
>> If the door is more to keep the rain out than provide security I would
>> weld up a steel frame out of square tube and cover it with a
>> lightweight roofing metal.
>>
>> It makes a fairly substantial door and keeps the weight down a bit .
>>
>
>Thought of making a frame out of steel tubing. Just don't think I can keep
>it square and straight.
>
>Al
>
If a metal door would suffice, make a frame out of 2x4's and 2x6's.
Lay them flat and use those hammer on plates made for trusses. Or you
can buy a metal edge that goes on the 2 sides of the door at Menards
and probably other places. Those are channel type metal, you just run
some 2x6s horizontally and drill/screw to those metal channels. That
is the easiest way. Then buy some ribbed steel siding such as
Pro-Rib, and screw them to the frame using the approved neoprene
washer screws. Apply rollers and handles and find a few friends to
lift it on the track. Be sure to put stops on ends of tracks or you
will undoubetly roll it off the end.
If you post a real email addy I can send you a picture of my door made
just that way.
One sheet of steel covers 3 feet, so you will need 4 of them, and must
get 10 footers. Figure $2 a lineal foot, or $80 for the four 10ft
sheets. Plus boards, screws, nails, and those metal strips for the
edges. I'd put a J-channel on the top too.
I just built my door and it was pretty easy.
Check out this site for the steel sheets (many colors). This brand is
sold at Menards.
http://www.midwestmanufacturing.com/SteelSiding.do
Click on products / applications / color charts
No, I dont work for them, I just been using a lot of their products
this year while building a new barn, and I have been pleased with
their products. If you email them, they are quick to reply and helpful
too.
I'm a retired farmer these days. I started to farm after I retired.
Mark
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