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Basement dryer venting problem

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Basement dryer venting problem Wally 06-26-2006
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Posted by Wally on June 26, 2006, 3:00 pm
I'm trying to install a basement dryer vent and have a logistical
problem that I'm hoping people could help me with.
The house I purchased has the dryer/washer in the basement laundry
room. The basement is completely below ground level. The previous
owners never vented the dryer outside and now I know why. Instead,
they just vented it into the laundry room and placed a stocking over
the end of the dryer hose to catch the lint.
A slate patio butts up right against the house. I measured exactly
where the vent opening would come outside the house if I were to drill
a 4 inch round hole and it would come out an inch or less above the
slate patio - so this is not a viable solution. I should also mention
that there is a window well on the cinder block wall directly behind
the dryer but I do not want to vent out the window into the well as
this would likely over time fill the well walls (more cinder blocks)
with lint and look pretty crappy.
My other alternative is to run an extended length (maybe 15 feet) of 4"
round dryer vent parallel along the floor/wall past the end of the
patio and then out through the wall where there might be perhaps a foot
of clearance off the ground (still not as much as I would like but
better than no clearance).
Are there any other solutions I might investigate? I can't run a
smaller diameter vent because of back pressure issues and such.
I am looking for any/all suggestions/comments.
Thanks!
Walter
Posted by hallerb@aol.com on June 26, 2006, 3:33 pm
I have a friend whos entire basement is below grade. They ran the vent
straight out thru the wall and then straight UP to a cap that vents all
around.
thats probably one option, if yo opt fpor the longer run theres a
exhaust booster so you get enough exhaust flow.
shorter runs equal horter drying time,if your dryer is electric you
might be better off keeping it indoors, in the winter the extra
humidity is a side benefit
Posted by jerry_maple on June 26, 2006, 3:57 pm
hallerb@aol.com wrote:
show/hide quoted text
Make sure the outdoor vent excludes birds and critters.
About 10 years ago I lived in a 2-story house with the ground
floor masonry block and the second story wood frame. The
laundry room was on the 1st floor. The outdoor vent came
through the wood frame wall of the 2nd story, then went
down to the laundry room.
Unknown to me, the flapper door on the vent fell off,
allowing a bird to enter. When it got to the vertical part
of the vent pipe, down it went. Couldn't get back up, so it
went the other direction. Got itself wedged in the blower
squirrel cage of the dryer, where it died.
Found it by smell some time later.
Ever since then, I have covered the dryer vent with 1/2
inch mesh screen.
Jerry
Posted by PipeDown on June 26, 2006, 6:18 pm
show/hide quoted text
Then run a rectangular duct vent. As long as the cross sectional area of
the duct and vent is as big or larger than the equivelent dryer hose, it
will be fine. Ample options in transitioning from round to rectangular
along the way.
For a cap, look at parts used to finish off bathroom and or kitchen range
vents. I know they have rectangular caps for kitchen vent hoods.
For 3"duct area= 7 square inches so a 2x6" duct with 12 square inch area
should be fine for even a longer run.
Posted by CDET 14 on June 27, 2006, 10:35 am
Wally wrote:
show/hide quoted text
Most municipal codes require that a dryer vent must terminate to the
exterior of the structure. Those who suggest that the extra humidity
is the reason for interior termination do not understand the fire
hazard issues with this.
A 4" rigid metal pipe is also part of the code. The smaller pipes get
clogged more easily and void dryer warranties. Bigger pipes will not
allow enough force to get the lint out. The 12" clearance off the
ground is also minimum code.
If you use mesh or screen to keep critters out, moniter it for lint
build-up.
Alisa LeSueur
Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician
http://CleanYourOwnDryerVent.com/
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