Basic Plumbing for shower install

Posted by oregonnative on May 7, 2006, 2:25 am

I'm remodeling my bathroom, and about to complete the rough in of my
shower/tub plumbing. I'm installing a Delta unversal valve. The model
number is R10000. My question is in regards to the male threads, of
which there are four, up/down/left/right. All of the litreature that I
can find from Delta seems to indicate inserting the 1/2 copper into the
"cup" of these connections, and then sweating the joint...leaving the
male threads unused, I asume for iron pipe. Is this correct? And is
this more fail safe than screwing on adapters?

Thanks for the help!

First time remodeler

Posted by Paul Franklin on May 7, 2006, 7:16 am

wrote:

>I'm remodeling my bathroom, and about to complete the rough in of my
>shower/tub plumbing. I'm installing a Delta unversal valve. The model
>number is R10000. My question is in regards to the male threads, of
>which there are four, up/down/left/right. All of the litreature that I
>can find from Delta seems to indicate inserting the 1/2 copper into the
>"cup" of these connections, and then sweating the joint...leaving the
>male threads unused, I asume for iron pipe. Is this correct? And is
>this more fail safe than screwing on adapters?
>Thanks for the help!
>First time remodeler

This type of dual connection is pretty common these days on tub/shower
valves and the like. As you say, if you are using 1/2" copper it will
slide into the fitting and is sweat-soldered in place. Iron pipe is
not/should not be used anymore for water, but if you are using 3/4
copper, or pex or cpvc or similar, then you use a female adaptor on
the pipe and thread it onto the valve.

Personally, I prefer the soldered connection, but a properly made
threaded connection is probably just as good.

Remember to remove the plastic valve cartridge from the valve body
before you do any soldering. And it's a good idea to flush out the
piping before you reinstall the cartridge by turning on the water with
the cartridge out (be prepared, water will shoot out everywhere) to
get rid off any loose bits of solder or copper or just dirt in the
pipes; otherwise it will just plug up the ports in the valve later.

Good luck with your project,

Paul

Posted by ameijers on May 7, 2006, 7:39 am

> wrote:

> >I'm remodeling my bathroom, and about to complete the rough in of my
> >shower/tub plumbing. I'm installing a Delta unversal valve. The model
> >number is R10000. My question is in regards to the male threads, of
> >which there are four, up/down/left/right. All of the litreature that I
> >can find from Delta seems to indicate inserting the 1/2 copper into the
> >"cup" of these connections, and then sweating the joint...leaving the
> >male threads unused, I asume for iron pipe. Is this correct? And is
> >this more fail safe than screwing on adapters?
> >Thanks for the help!
> >First time remodeler

> This type of dual connection is pretty common these days on tub/shower
> valves and the like. As you say, if you are using 1/2" copper it will
> slide into the fitting and is sweat-soldered in place. Iron pipe is
> not/should not be used anymore for water, but if you are using 3/4
> copper, or pex or cpvc or similar, then you use a female adaptor on
> the pipe and thread it onto the valve.
> Personally, I prefer the soldered connection, but a properly made
> threaded connection is probably just as good.
> Remember to remove the plastic valve cartridge from the valve body
> before you do any soldering. And it's a good idea to flush out the
> piping before you reinstall the cartridge by turning on the water with
> the cartridge out (be prepared, water will shoot out everywhere) to
> get rid off any loose bits of solder or copper or just dirt in the
> pipes; otherwise it will just plug up the ports in the valve later.

I, on the other hand, having paid a small fortune to replace a crapped out
tub faucet, would vote for the threaded adapter, assuming this is an inside
wall with an access panel behind. Makes it a lot easier on the next guy to
replace.

aem sends...

Posted by oregonnative on May 7, 2006, 11:36 am

Thanks Paul,

I appreciate your information. This is inside a wall without other
access, which is why I'm concerned about getting the very best
connection that I can. Thanks for the tip on flushing the system.

Shawn

Posted by Paul Franklin on May 7, 2006, 10:04 pm

On Sun, 07 May 2006 11:39:00 GMT, "ameijers"

>> wrote:

>> >I'm remodeling my bathroom, and about to complete the rough in of my
>> >shower/tub plumbing. I'm installing a Delta unversal valve. The model
>> >number is R10000. My question is in regards to the male threads, of
>> >which there are four, up/down/left/right. All of the litreature that I
>> >can find from Delta seems to indicate inserting the 1/2 copper into the
>> >"cup" of these connections, and then sweating the joint...leaving the
>> >male threads unused, I asume for iron pipe. Is this correct? And is
>> >this more fail safe than screwing on adapters?
>> >Thanks for the help!
>> >First time remodeler

>> This type of dual connection is pretty common these days on tub/shower
>> valves and the like. As you say, if you are using 1/2" copper it will
>> slide into the fitting and is sweat-soldered in place. Iron pipe is
>> not/should not be used anymore for water, but if you are using 3/4
>> copper, or pex or cpvc or similar, then you use a female adaptor on
>> the pipe and thread it onto the valve.
>> Personally, I prefer the soldered connection, but a properly made
>> threaded connection is probably just as good.
>> Remember to remove the plastic valve cartridge from the valve body
>> before you do any soldering. And it's a good idea to flush out the
>> piping before you reinstall the cartridge by turning on the water with
>> the cartridge out (be prepared, water will shoot out everywhere) to
>> get rid off any loose bits of solder or copper or just dirt in the
>> pipes; otherwise it will just plug up the ports in the valve later.

>I, on the other hand, having paid a small fortune to replace a crapped out
>tub faucet, would vote for the threaded adapter, assuming this is an inside
>wall with an access panel behind. Makes it a lot easier on the next guy to
>replace.
>aem sends...

I don't see how using threaded connections makes it any easier to
replace. The other end of each piece of pipe (Cold in, hot in, tub
out, shower out) is attached to something that doesn't turn. So even
if it's threaded on the valve, there's no way to unscrew it. Unless
you use four unions, and no way I'd bury even one union in a wall, let
along 4.

So either way, you are going to end up cutting the valve out to
replace it. A good reason not to skimp on quality.

Paul

Page 1 of 2 1 2 > last >>

Similar Threads	Posted
Shower plumbing install	December 13, 2008, 12:04 pm
basic plumbing--drains	December 25, 2007, 11:08 am
Newbie plumbing question: sillcock install	December 8, 2005, 4:17 pm
Mysterious Plumbing Problems After Hot Water Heater Install	November 15, 2006, 1:49 am
Re: PEX plumbing, water softener install, exposed PEX in the closet	March 10, 2007, 7:59 pm
Re: PEX plumbing, water softener install, exposed PEX in the closet	March 11, 2007, 4:18 am
Re: PEX plumbing, water softener install, exposed PEX in the closet	March 11, 2007, 8:33 am
How to replace shower plumbing.	April 10, 2006, 9:28 am
install roll-in shower for wheelchair?	October 7, 2005, 3:47 pm
How to install a new drain in shower stall?	December 6, 2006, 2:29 pm