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Bathtub Grout vs. Caulking

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Bathtub Grout vs. Caulking headware 04-19-2008
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Posted by Wayne Boatwright on April 20, 2008, 6:20 pm
On Sun 20 Apr 2008 05:47:45a, Nancy Young told us...

>
>
>> Nancy Young wrote:
>
>>>Do you fill the tub with water before caulking? I've seen that
>>>advice more than once, by filling the tub you maximize the weight
>>>and theoretically the size of the gap. I'm curious because I really
>>>need to do this soon to my tub.
>
>> I've seen the instructions to do that lot's of times. Good idea unless
>> you like sitting in the tub when you caulk :o)
>
> (laugh) I'm bad enough at caulking standing up.
>
> Thank you.
>
> nancy
>
>
>

Using a free-hand technique I'm terrible at caulking. What makes it worse
is that I'm OCD and AR! :-)

Yes, fill the tub with water. Even if you're in the tub with the water,
there won't be enough movement to make a significant difference. What I
do... Lay a perfectly straight line of blue masking tape on the tub
surface adjacent to the wall surface, about 1/8" away. Lay another
perfectly straight line of the tape on the wall surface, about the same
difference. Wear latex glove(s). Caulk liberally with silicone caulk, not
worrying about caulk on the tape. Wet a glove finger with water and
tightly smooth the caulk along the line. Immediately remove both strips of
tape, pulling at an angle away from the joint. It makes an amazingly neat
caulk line.

I do the same for the joint between kitchen and vanity countertops and the
backsplash.

--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Sunday, 04(IV)/20(XX)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
Countdown till Memorial Day
5wks 8hrs 55mins
-------------------------------------------
Friends help you move. Real friends
help you move bodies.
-------------------------------------------


Posted by headware on April 21, 2008, 12:09 am
wrote:
> On Sun 20 Apr 2008 05:47:45a, Nancy Young told us...
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >> Nancy Young wrote:
>
> >>>Do you fill the tub with water before caulking? I've seen that
> >>>advice more than once, by filling the tub you maximize the weight
> >>>and theoretically the size of the gap. I'm curious because I really
> >>>need to do this soon to my tub.
>
> >> I've seen the instructions to do that lot's of times. Good idea unless
> >> you like sitting in the tub when you caulk :o)
>
> > (laugh) I'm bad enough at caulking standing up.
>
> > Thank you.
>
> > nancy
>
> Using a free-hand technique I'm terrible at caulking. What makes it worse
> is that I'm OCD and AR! :-)
>
> Yes, fill the tub with water. Even if you're in the tub with the water,
> there won't be enough movement to make a significant difference. What I
> do... Lay a perfectly straight line of blue masking tape on the tub
> surface adjacent to the wall surface, about 1/8" away. Lay another
> perfectly straight line of the tape on the wall surface, about the same
> difference. Wear latex glove(s). Caulk liberally with silicone caulk, not
> worrying about caulk on the tape. Wet a glove finger with water and
> tightly smooth the caulk along the line. Immediately remove both strips of
> tape, pulling at an angle away from the joint. It makes an amazingly neat
> caulk line.
>
> I do the same for the joint between kitchen and vanity countertops and the
> backsplash.
>
> --
> Wayne Boatwright
> -------------------------------------------
> Sunday, 04(IV)/20(XX)/08(MMVIII)
> -------------------------------------------
> Countdown till Memorial Day
> 5wks 8hrs 55mins
> -------------------------------------------
> Friends help you move. Real friends
> help you move bodies.
> -------------------------------------------

This site gives a pretty nice explanation (with pics) of the
techniques people are talking about on this thread:

http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/17644/

Posted by Bubba on April 20, 2008, 11:57 am
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 20:32:42 -0700 (PDT), headware

>> clipped
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >>Thanks for the reply. There appears to be a mix of grout and caulk
>> >>already. I'm not sure if the previous person put caulking on top of
>> >>the grout or tried to fill holes in the grout with caulk or what. So I
>> >>guess it might be too late for the whole not mixing grout and caulking
>> >>thing you mentioned. Are you saying that once I use caulking I will
>> >>never be able to remove it and replace it with grout should I be so
>> >>inclined? Why is that? Does the caulking leave some sort of residue
>> >>behind that makes grouting impossible?
>>
>> >>Thanks,
>> >>Dave
>>
>> >Dave,
>> >Dont listen to Joe. He is either yanking your chain or a clueless
>> >dolt. Norminn got it exactly right.
>> >Bubba
>>
>> TY. I forgot to mention one important point, learned from doing it the
>> wrong way several
>> times.........Lots of folks can run a bead of caulk or a paint brush in
>> a nice straight line. I
>> cannot do either. When I caulk, I put down painters tape along where I
>> want the edge to be.
>> Push the caulk gun forward to put the caulk on the line, with the tip
>> trimmed to about the width
>> of the caulk line from one tape edge to the corner of the gap. Sounds
>> nuts, but it is just a rough
>> est. of how large you want the bead to be. Just put it down fast.
>> Practice won't hurt. When
>> the caulk is on, I run my finger down the caulk line to form a smooth,
>> concave line with tapers
>> to each edge of the tape. Pull up the tape. Let it set. Dampen your
>> finger to do it however
>> you like; water is good :o) By getting the caulk line concave and
>> perfectly smoothe, there are
>> no ruts or gullies to trap water or soap scum and grow more mildew.
>
>Bubba & Norman,
>
>Thanks for all the help. I had already planned on using the tape
>technique you mentioned. After speaking to someone at Lowe's, it would
>appear that the caulk used in the tub was an acrylic caulk containing
>sand. I guess the grittiness of the sand made me think it was grout. I
>bought some more of that stuff but I also have silicone caulk as well;
>maybe I'll use the silicone instead. So far, the toughest thing has
>been getting old caulk out of there. It's pretty hard and wedged in
>the pretty tightly in some spots. I use some caulk remover to soften
>it up but it had mixed results. Just apply more elbow grease right?
>
>Dave

Basically, yes. Just keep picking and pulling at it.
Also, as far as the tape caulking method........Ive seen and used a
different one. Get a small sponge, wet it and drag it across the
caulk. You'll be suprised how good it looks.
Dont use a colored sponge incase any of the color bleeds through.
Bubba

Posted by Norminn on April 19, 2008, 4:36 pm
headware wrote:

>I'm replacing some moldy caulking along the edge of my bathtub where
>the tub meets the tiled wall. As I was removing the caulking, the
>grout behind it also started to come out in spots. I think I'm going
>to have to remove all of the grout along the edge, but do I need to
>replace the grout with more grout or can I replace it with just
>caulking? If I need to replace the grout, should I put caulk over it
>as well?
>
>Thanks,
>Dave
>
>
Everything I have read on the topic advises to use caulk between
tub/wall, wall/floor and wall/wall joints because the joints flex and
will cause grout to crack. That is likely why you have caulk over
grout. It might be a special problem if the gap is wide (more than about
1/8" or a little more). I would clean both surfaces very well, use
util. knife to scrape out loose grout, and redo the joint with silicone
caulk. Tile and porcelain tub are easy to clean the old caulk from -
use new razor blade scraper. Wipe with full-strength bleach, let dry,
wipe with denatured alcohol, let dry, appley new caulk. I have redone
quite a few old caulk joints and have never had problems with mildew on
the new caulk when it was cleaned properly.

Posted by Charles Bishop on April 25, 2008, 7:07 pm

>headware wrote:
>
>>I'm replacing some moldy caulking along the edge of my bathtub where
>>the tub meets the tiled wall. As I was removing the caulking, the
>>grout behind it also started to come out in spots. I think I'm going
>>to have to remove all of the grout along the edge, but do I need to
>>replace the grout with more grout or can I replace it with just
>>caulking? If I need to replace the grout, should I put caulk over it
>>as well?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Dave
>>
>>
>Everything I have read on the topic advises to use caulk between
>tub/wall, wall/floor and wall/wall joints because the joints flex and
>will cause grout to crack. That is likely why you have caulk over
>grout. It might be a special problem if the gap is wide (more than about
>1/8" or a little more). I would clean both surfaces very well, use
>util. knife to scrape out loose grout, and redo the joint with silicone
>caulk. Tile and porcelain tub are easy to clean the old caulk from -
>use new razor blade scraper. Wipe with full-strength bleach, let dry,
>wipe with denatured alcohol, let dry, appley new caulk. I have redone
>quite a few old caulk joints and have never had problems with mildew on
>the new caulk when it was cleaned properly.

I'll agree with this. The caulk will have more give as the tub flexes
along the tub/tile joint. If the gap is large in places, use grout backing
to fill.

Some caulks are mildew resistant. I've had good experience with
Polyseamseal. It's an adhesive grout and can be suitable for
tile/sinks/tubs.

--
charls

Page 3 of 4       < 1 2 3 > last >>
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