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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem

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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem Manjo 04-16-2008
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Posted by on April 22, 2008, 6:22 pm
> On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 04:58:18 -0700 (PDT), pheeh.z...@gmail.com wrote:
message
>
>
> >> > wrote:
>
> >> >>Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
> >> >>running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
> >> >>intake?
>
> >> > ?????? WD-40 is fuel....
>
> >> > Never heard of this method and would not use it
>
> >You can safely spray WD-40 to run an engine because its propellant is
> >propane gas...and the oil lubricates the upper cylinder.
> >All mechanics know of this...and most use it!
>
> This thread is the first time I've read about using WD-40. Never
> observed a mechanic use it, but rather they used carb / starting
> fluid.
>
> Thanks.
>
> (G)

Starting fluid (ether) is never used by anyone who knows their stuff...
2-cycles (or even 4) are likely to blow-up in your face!
Too much carb cleaner will dry the cylinder wall and thin the oil.

Posted by Oren on April 22, 2008, 6:44 pm
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 15:22:51 -0700 (PDT), pheeh.zero@gmail.com wrote:

>> On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 04:58:18 -0700 (PDT), pheeh.z...@gmail.com wrote:
message
>>
>>
>> >> > wrote:
>>
>> >> >>Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
>> >> >>running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
>> >> >>intake?
>>
>> >> > ?????? WD-40 is fuel....
>>
>> >> > Never heard of this method and would not use it
>>
>> >You can safely spray WD-40 to run an engine because its propellant is
>> >propane gas...and the oil lubricates the upper cylinder.
>> >All mechanics know of this...and most use it!
>>
>> This thread is the first time I've read about using WD-40. Never
>> observed a mechanic use it, but rather they used carb / starting
>> fluid.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> (G)
>
>Starting fluid (ether) is never used by anyone who knows their stuff...

Perhaps they should stop selling it :)

>2-cycles (or even 4) are likely to blow-up in your face!

I would use it on a four stroke any time I work on a fuel starved
engine.

>Too much carb cleaner will dry the cylinder wall and thin the oil.

If one uses that much; to dry cylinder walls, etc. then they need to
re-evaluated their usage.

Or, change the oil :-)

Posted by on April 22, 2008, 7:01 pm
>I would use it on a four stroke any time I work on a fuel starved
engine.

Key phase here: ...knows their stuff. 8^)

Posted by on April 22, 2008, 7:07 pm
>"I would use it on a four stroke any time I work on a fuel starved
engine."

Key phrase here: knows their stuff. 8^)

Posted by Manjo on April 22, 2008, 8:09 am
On Apr 21, 6:59=A0pm, pheeh.z...@gmail.com wrote:
> I agree 100% with Husky.
> I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought
> back memories of working on them.
>
> Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo!
>
> I live in Central WI.

I live in eastern MA. I also agree with Husky 99%. I went to the leaf
blower manufacturer and they only had a four-page assembly manual with
no engine information or details. I went to B&S's web site and then
called Customer Service. I was told by B&S the only repair manual
they offered (to sell me and I bought) was the "Single Cylinder "L"
Head (built after 1981) Repair manual". That B&S manual covers plenty
of different models and carbs including mine, but it contains no
"principals of operation", or explanation of how any of the carbs
actually work. My carb experience is limited to motorcycle float
carbs, but I was lucky enough at the time to find an expert forum that
filled in the bike=92s official service manual carb blank spots.

And that's why I came to this forum. I needed to fill in the big
blanks and have been very lucky to learn from all of you and to read
Husky's carb tutorial that has filled in a lot of carb blanks, also.
IF ANYONE knows of a manual or web site that has an operational
description of my carb or a similar small engine diaphragm carb, I'm
more than happy and willing to read it and learn.

(The 1% I don't agree with is the implication that I am lazy, stupid,
and cheap. I work hard to gather any and all information and data
available, I=92m of fair intelligence, and have and will spend money to
buy tools and manuals to help and guide me to fix engines and
appliances I don't feel it's necessary to pay someone $50 an hour to
repair for me. To imply otherwise is unfair and demeaning.)

Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? ---- YES,
IT"S a little wet.

Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting
fluid) into the carb
intake? ---- No, the starter fluid will NOT keep the engine running,
but will start it. But I will try WD-40.

Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the
plug wire? ---- No. I lost my spark tester and I'm buying a
replacement.

With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few
pulls of the rope?
----- I DON=92T KNOW. The tank-top carb covers any possible view of the
reservoir. IS there some trick to looking into the reservoir with the
carb in place??

Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat
against the side face of the carb? Did you use a new diaphragm, or
just reinstall the old one? ----- THE FLAPS are laying flat against
the carb body. YES, I did buy and install a new diaphragm, and when I
blew out the carb body, the diaphragm and cover were OFF the carb and
not damaged.

Thanks,

Manjo





Manjo

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