|
Posted by Manjo on April 23, 2008, 3:17 pm
On Apr 22, 8:34=A0am, pheeh.z...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 21, 6:59 pm, pheeh.z...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > > I agree 100% with Husky.
> > > I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought
> > > back memories of working on them.
>
> > > Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo!
>
> > > I live in Central WI.
>
> > I live in eastern MA. I also agree with Husky 99%. =A0I went to the leaf=
> > blower manufacturer and they only had a four-page assembly manual with
> > no engine information or details. =A0I went to B&S's web site and then
> > called Customer Service. =A0I was told by B&S the only repair manual
> > they offered (to sell me and I bought) was the "Single Cylinder "L"
> > Head (built after 1981) Repair manual". =A0That B&S manual covers plenty=
> > of different models and carbs including mine, but it contains no
> > "principals of operation", or explanation of how any of the carbs
> > actually work. =A0My carb experience is limited to motorcycle float
> > carbs, but I was lucky enough at the time to find an expert forum that
> > filled in the bike=92s official service manual carb blank spots.
>
> > And that's why I came to this forum. =A0I needed to fill in the big
> > blanks and have been very lucky to learn from all of you and to read
> > Husky's carb tutorial that has filled in a lot of carb blanks, also.
> > IF ANYONE knows of a manual or web site that has an operational
> > description of my carb or a similar small engine diaphragm carb, I'm
> > more than happy and willing to read it and learn.
>
> > (The 1% I don't agree with is the implication that I am lazy, stupid,
> > and cheap. =A0I work hard to gather any and all information and data
> > available, I=92m of fair intelligence, and have and will spend money to
> > buy tools and manuals to help and guide me to fix engines and
> > appliances I don't feel it's necessary to pay someone $50 an hour to
> > repair for me. =A0To imply otherwise is unfair and demeaning.)
>
> > Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? ---- YES,
> > IT"S a little wet.
>
> > Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting
> > fluid) into the carb
> > intake? =A0---- No, the starter fluid will NOT keep the engine running,
> > but will start it. But I will try WD-40.
>
> > Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the
> > plug wire? =A0---- No. =A0I lost my spark tester and I'm buying a
> > replacement.
>
> > With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few
> > pulls of the rope?
> > ----- I DON=92T KNOW. =A0The tank-top carb covers any possible view of t=
he
> > reservoir. =A0IS there some trick to looking into the reservoir with the=
> > carb in place??
>
> > Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat
> > against the side face of the carb? =A0Did you use a new diaphragm, or
> > just reinstall the old one? =A0 ----- THE FLAPS are laying flat against
> > the carb body. =A0YES, I did buy and install a new diaphragm, and when I=
> > blew out the carb body, the diaphragm and cover were OFF the carb and
> > not damaged.
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Manjo
>
> > Manjo
>
> You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at
> the same time.
> This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. =A0It is an amazing
> design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and
> them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks. Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. Trying to
understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge.
I'll just keep plugging along. Since I can start it and keep it
running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good
for the short term.
Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. When I get this
fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when
I bought it, I'll post whatever I found.
Manjo
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap