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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by JayB on November 6, 2009, 6:52 pm
> I now have a new unfinished red oak hardwood floor installed in an
> apartment
> that I will be renting out.
> What I want is a truly *CLEAR* finish to put down on the new unfinished
> flooring.
....If you stain then recoating in a few years if there is damage
might mean sanding to wood, with no stain recoating is much easier
when there is damage....
Yes, that's one of the reasons that I was thinking of just using a clear
finish and no staining. Unfortunately, the "clear" polyurethane finishes
makes the wood look bad -- as if it was poorly stained.
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Posted by norminn@earthlink.net on November 6, 2009, 7:16 pm
JayB wrote:
>> I now have a new unfinished red oak hardwood floor installed in an
>> apartment
>> that I will be renting out.
>> What I want is a truly *CLEAR* finish to put down on the new unfinished
>> flooring.
>
> ....If you stain then recoating in a few years if there is damage
> might mean sanding to wood, with no stain recoating is much easier
> when there is damage....
>
> Yes, that's one of the reasons that I was thinking of just using a clear
> finish and no staining. Unfortunately, the "clear" polyurethane
> finishes makes the wood look bad -- as if it was poorly stained.
Can you elaborate on how it looks "bad"? Geesh...red oak should be
beautiful! I don't know flooring or wood grades involved in new mfg.
flooring, just lots of old furniture. Is the flooring a brand name?
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Posted by JayB on November 6, 2009, 7:25 pm
> JayB wrote:
>> Yes, that's one of the reasons that I was thinking of just using a clear
>> finish and no staining. Unfortunately, the "clear" polyurethane finishes
>> makes the wood look bad -- as if it was poorly stained.
> Can you elaborate on how it looks "bad"? Geesh...red oak should be
> beautiful! I don't know flooring or wood grades involved in new mfg.
> flooring, just lots of old furniture. Is the flooring a brand name?
I bought it at Lumber Liquidators ( http://LumberLiquidators.com ). It's
unfinished #2 Red Oak (with their product number of RO22, I think). The way
it looks bad is that the grain absorbs the clear polyurethane and what
started out as a very light colored wood becomes dark, blotchy, grainy,
junky-looking wood. When I apply any color of oil-based stain, the stain
absorbs in a way that the wood grain looks and is whatever color the stain
makes it. But applying clear polyurethane doesn't do the same thing.
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Posted by norminn@earthlink.net on November 6, 2009, 8:03 pm
JayB wrote:
>> JayB wrote:
>>> Yes, that's one of the reasons that I was thinking of just using a
>>> clear finish and no staining. Unfortunately, the "clear"
>>> polyurethane finishes makes the wood look bad -- as if it was poorly
>>> stained.
>> Can you elaborate on how it looks "bad"? Geesh...red oak should be
>> beautiful! I don't know flooring or wood grades involved in new mfg.
>> flooring, just lots of old furniture. Is the flooring a brand name?
>
> I bought it at Lumber Liquidators ( http://LumberLiquidators.com ).
> It's unfinished #2 Red Oak (with their product number of RO22, I
> think). The way it looks bad is that the grain absorbs the clear
> polyurethane and what started out as a very light colored wood becomes
> dark, blotchy, grainy, junky-looking wood. When I apply any color of
> oil-based stain, the stain absorbs in a way that the wood grain looks
> and is whatever color the stain makes it. But applying clear
> polyurethane doesn't do the same thing.
With clear finish, oak generally is a mid-tone to deep brown, even
without any stain. And it is very "grainy". It might help if you
upload some pix and post a link, at least for the areas you consider
problems. A good way to get a close idea of how wood will look with a
clear finish is to simply wet it with solvent. Any chance you can
replace some of the worst looking boards?
I took a look at the link you provided and went to the product...RO22 is
called "rustic", as opposed to other red oak called "select" and some
called "natural". If some of the wood is much harder, accounting for
the very light look, you can blend them using stain if you apply the
stain and don't wipe it off the light spots. I haven't done flooring,
but lots of furniture, and have mixed my own stains. If you apply
half-strength stain to the entire floor, you can help blend very light
spots by brushing on same stain, full-strength and not wiping it off.
Sort of a half-assed way of fixing something you apparently didn't
expect when you purchased. I'll cross-post this and see if woodworkers
have some better ideas.
I assume you wipe the stain?
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Posted by hr(bob) hofmann@att.net on November 6, 2009, 10:47 pm
wrote:
> JayB wrote:
> >> JayB wrote:
> >>> Yes, that's one of the reasons that I was thinking of just using a
> >>> clear finish and no staining. =A0Unfortunately, the "clear"
> >>> polyurethane finishes makes the wood look bad -- as if it was poorly
> >>> stained.
> >> Can you elaborate on how it looks "bad"? =A0Geesh...red oak should be
> >> beautiful! =A0I don't know flooring or wood grades involved in new mfg=
.
> >> flooring, just lots of old furniture. =A0Is the flooring a brand name?
> > I bought it at Lumber Liquidators (http://LumberLiquidators.com). =A0
> > It's unfinished #2 Red Oak (with their product number of RO22, I
> > think). =A0The way it looks bad is that the grain absorbs the clear
> > polyurethane and what started out as a very light colored wood becomes
> > dark, blotchy, grainy, junky-looking wood. =A0When I apply any color of
> > oil-based stain, the stain absorbs in a way that the wood grain looks
> > and is whatever color the stain makes it. =A0But applying clear
> > polyurethane doesn't do the same thing.
> With clear finish, oak generally is a mid-tone to deep brown, even
> without any stain. =A0And it is very "grainy". =A0It might help if you
> upload some pix and post a link, at least for the areas you consider
> problems. =A0A good way to get a close idea of how wood will look with a
> clear finish is to simply wet it with solvent. =A0Any chance you can
> replace some of the worst looking boards?
> I took a look at the link you provided and went to the product...RO22 is
> called "rustic", as opposed to other red oak called "select" and some
> called "natural". =A0If some of the wood is much harder, accounting for
> the very light look, you can blend them using stain if you apply the
> stain and don't wipe it off the light spots. =A0I haven't done flooring,
> but lots of furniture, and have mixed my own stains. =A0If you apply
> half-strength stain to the entire floor, you can help blend very light
> spots by brushing on same stain, full-strength and not wiping it off.
> Sort of a half-assed way of fixing something you apparently didn't
> expect when you purchased. =A0I'll cross-post this and see if woodworkers
> have some better ideas.
> I assume you wipe the stain?- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
What about using a wood filler that is supposed to reduce stain
absorbtion and reduce blotchiness?
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> apartment
> that I will be renting out.
> What I want is a truly *CLEAR* finish to put down on the new unfinished
> flooring.