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Posted by dadiOH on November 8, 2009, 8:59 am
norminn@earthlink.net wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>> JayB wrote:
>>> hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
>>>> What about using a wood filler that is supposed to reduce stain
>>>> absorbtion and reduce blotchiness?
>>> I'll have to test that out. I assume you mean a wood sealer, but
>>> I'll try it.
>> He said wood *FILLER*. One would assume that is what he means. Paste
>> wood filler.
>> A sealer - a different thing - might help depending on what it is.
> A wood filler is for filling defects.
Apparently you are not familiar with paste wood filler.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grain_filler
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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Posted by norminn@earthlink.net on November 8, 2009, 10:15 am
dadiOH wrote:
> norminn@earthlink.net wrote:
>> dadiOH wrote:
>>> JayB wrote:
>>>> hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
>>>>> What about using a wood filler that is supposed to reduce stain
>>>>> absorbtion and reduce blotchiness?
>>>> I'll have to test that out. I assume you mean a wood sealer, but
>>>> I'll try it.
>>> He said wood *FILLER*. One would assume that is what he means. Paste
>>> wood filler.
>>> A sealer - a different thing - might help depending on what it is.
>> A wood filler is for filling defects.
>
> Apparently you are not familiar with paste wood filler.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grain_filler
>
I've used wood filler to fill in rotted wood storm window frames. Tried
it on furniture, but the oak furniture I tried it on really didn't need
it....the finish, in two or three coats, filled the grain just fine.
The OP sounds like a relative newby, and getting wood filler in the
right color for an entire floor is not, IMO, a task for a newby.
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Posted by dadiOH on November 8, 2009, 1:32 pm
norminn@earthlink.net wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>> norminn@earthlink.net wrote:
>>> dadiOH wrote:
>>>> JayB wrote:
>>>>> hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
>>>>>> What about using a wood filler that is supposed to reduce stain
>>>>>> absorbtion and reduce blotchiness?
>>>>> I'll have to test that out. I assume you mean a wood sealer, but
>>>>> I'll try it.
>>>> He said wood *FILLER*. One would assume that is what he means.
>>>> Paste wood filler.
>>>> A sealer - a different thing - might help depending on what it is.
>>> A wood filler is for filling defects.
>> Apparently you are not familiar with paste wood filler.
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grain_filler
> I've used wood filler to fill in rotted wood storm window frames.
Uhhh...OK. Didn't work very well, did it?
> Tried it on furniture, but the oak furniture I tried it on really
> didn't need it....the finish, in two or three coats, filled the grain
> just fine. The OP sounds like a relative newby, and getting wood
> filler in the right color for an entire floor is not, IMO, a task for
> a newby.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
|
|
Posted by norminn@earthlink.net on November 8, 2009, 2:16 pm
dadiOH wrote:
> norminn@earthlink.net wrote:
>> dadiOH wrote:
>>> norminn@earthlink.net wrote:
>>>> dadiOH wrote:
>>>>> JayB wrote:
>>>>>> hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
>>>>>>> What about using a wood filler that is supposed to reduce stain
>>>>>>> absorbtion and reduce blotchiness?
>>>>>> I'll have to test that out. I assume you mean a wood sealer, but
>>>>>> I'll try it.
>>>>> He said wood *FILLER*. One would assume that is what he means.
>>>>> Paste wood filler.
>>>>> A sealer - a different thing - might help depending on what it is.
>>>> A wood filler is for filling defects.
>>> Apparently you are not familiar with paste wood filler.
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grain_filler
>> I've used wood filler to fill in rotted wood storm window frames.
>
> Uhhh...OK. Didn't work very well, did it?
Not the same kind used for furniture, I'm sure, but it served the
purpose. My daughter has a nice little bungalow and it was obvious the
storms hadn't been used for years....standing on garage floor, the
bottoms of the worst ones had rotted away to the extent they were just
ragged along bottom edges. I stripped old alligatored paint from
exterior trim for most of the regular windows and repainted. Recaulked
around windows, of course. When it came time to consider the storms, I
figured that with careful handling the filler would make them fit well
enough to keep the weather out of the house :o) Slapped on the wood
filler, repainted, reglazed some and put them up. My daughter replaced
all of her windows last year, and the storms were probably still up :o)
>
>> Tried it on furniture, but the oak furniture I tried it on really
>> didn't need it....the finish, in two or three coats, filled the grain
>> just fine. The OP sounds like a relative newby, and getting wood
>> filler in the right color for an entire floor is not, IMO, a task for
>> a newby.
>
>
>
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Posted by JayB on November 7, 2009, 6:18 am
> With clear finish, oak generally is a mid-tone to deep brown, even without
> any stain. And it is very "grainy".
Maybe that's the problem. I was hoping to be able to apply a completely
clear finish and have it look pretty much the way it looks now unfinished,
but with a clear finsih on top. I guess that won't happen.
In my original post, I was also asking about clear Moisture Cure Urethane.
The impression I got is that when it goes on it doesn't really change the
color or look of the wood. I think they said that is what is used on
bowling alleys. I don't know if all of that is true, but it doesn't matter
anyway because I can't find any places to buy the stuff other than online.
> It might help if you upload some pix and post a link, at least for the
> areas you consider problems. A good way to get a close idea of how wood
> will look with a clear finish is to simply wet it with solvent. Any
> chance you can replace some of the worst looking boards?
Replacing boards won't be a realsitic option at this point. And, I don't
think I'll get to do the picture idea. Since today is Saturday, I need to
figure out something and get this done this weekend.
I have a hunch that what I am going to end up doing is picking one of the
stains that I already tested and go with that. The stains all darken and
even out the color variations, and some of them look okay enough to go with
(I'm leaning toward Colonial Maple or Golden Pecan). Maybe it won't be
exactly what I was hoping for -- just a clear finish over the unfinished
wood -- but it will be done.
> I took a look at the link you provided and went to the product...RO22 is
> called "rustic", as opposed to other red oak called "select" and some
> called "natural". If some of the wood is much harder, accounting for the
> very light look, you can blend them using stain if you apply the stain and
> don't wipe it off the light spots. I haven't done flooring, but lots of
> furniture, and have mixed my own stains. If you apply half-strength stain
> to the entire floor, you can help blend very light spots by brushing on
> same stain, full-strength and not wiping it off. Sort of a half-assed way
> of fixing something you apparently didn't expect when you purchased. I'll
> cross-post this and see if woodworkers have some better ideas.
> I assume you wipe the stain?
Yes, I did do what the instructions said about applying the stain, leaving
it there for a certain amount of time, and then wiping it. I thought it was
fairly interesting the way the stains worked and looked by doing that.
Earlier I had tried MinWax "Polyshades" which is a combination of stain and
polyurethane in one. That was okay, and it would be a lot easier, but then
I read that Polyshades is not supposed to be used on floors -- I am not sure
why -- so I guess that's out.
Thanks for all of your help and suggestions. It does appear that you know a
lot about all of this and have a lot of experience with it.
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