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Posted by fftt on October 5, 2009, 4:21 pm
> I bought this thing 10-15 years ago and it's had moderate+ use. =A0Before
> I bought it, it was returned to Sears under warranty, repaired, and I
> bought it for $50 clearance, under warranty, missing the manual.
> Contrary to what I hear most people say, this thing always started and
> ran great! =A0Normally 2 or 3 pulls in temps from 20F to 99F.
> OK, the 2 nuts to hold the bar on and the chain adjustment always gave
> me a little trouble loosening up and the chain would loosen up. =A0This
> led me to tightening the 2 nuts more and more. =A0Finally I pulled one of
> the bolt heads partway through the plastic casing. =A0A quick look seems
> like it's one hell of a job to replace the case where the bolt pulled
> through, plus I don't see that part listed on searspartsdirect.com
> Any ideas what to do? =A0I had pushed the bolt back into where it should
> be but that area is cracked so I can't make the nut very tight without
> the bolt coming out again. =A0My one idea was to pull the bolt partway
> through the broken case how it was. =A0At that point I could clean it as
> good as I can with carb cleaner, and/or maybe ether? =A0After it's dry I'=
d
> =A0 fill the cracks and voids with epoxy, then bush the bolt back to wher=
e
> it belongs, adding more epoxy if there are any more voids.
> And if I don't fix it, are the newer Poulan / Craftsman better or worse
> that the old? =A0It is basically the same as the bright green Poulan "Wil=
d
> Thing". =A0I don't use it all the time, but when I do it often gets a
> heavy workout. =A0I don't think I need a heavier duty model. =A0If the $5=
0
> one lasted this long
Your proposed fix will most likely work for about as long as the
orriginal worked so I'd give it a try.
But the real problem is that the bolt head applies force to the
plastic that exceeds the housing's strength. :(
If this is possible consider replace the studs with a threaded rod
screwed into a coupling nut that fits the housing recess. Cut the
coupling nut to length such that a hex bolt can be screwed to into and
with a washer under the bolt head just contacts the outer surface of
the housing (if there is room to do this)
The hex bolt & washer will give oyu some extra bearing surface. Do a
dry fit up of the whole thing....if it works, Loctite (red) the bolt
& washer into the coupling nut. Clean the housing & do your epoxy
(actually plastic repair two part goop) thing...insert the assembly &
you'll be good to go.
With the bolt Loctited into place oyu can use a wrench on it too when
you tighten the bar nuts...this will lessen the forces on the
housing...
A lot of work for an old "homeowner" chainsaw but fixing shit is more
than half the fun
cheers
Bob
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> I bought it, it was returned to Sears under warranty, repaired, and I
> bought it for $50 clearance, under warranty, missing the manual.
> Contrary to what I hear most people say, this thing always started and
> ran great! =A0Normally 2 or 3 pulls in temps from 20F to 99F.
> OK, the 2 nuts to hold the bar on and the chain adjustment always gave
> me a little trouble loosening up and the chain would loosen up. =A0This
> led me to tightening the 2 nuts more and more. =A0Finally I pulled one of
> the bolt heads partway through the plastic casing. =A0A quick look seems
> like it's one hell of a job to replace the case where the bolt pulled
> through, plus I don't see that part listed on searspartsdirect.com
> Any ideas what to do? =A0I had pushed the bolt back into where it should
> be but that area is cracked so I can't make the nut very tight without
> the bolt coming out again. =A0My one idea was to pull the bolt partway
> through the broken case how it was. =A0At that point I could clean it as
> good as I can with carb cleaner, and/or maybe ether? =A0After it's dry I'=